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70's Sherpa


hutchph998
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This will obviously open a can of worms as every owner has his own ideas but I use EP90 gear oil in the gearbox 600cc for a rebuilt engine as per book but for an oil change I put in 500cc. For the primary chaincase I still use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) 300cc.

Stuart

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Yes - Twinshock is quite correct.

G/Box 1 pint of EP 90 - if you can get a standard 90 eg SAE 90 I seem to recall that is a little kinder on the 2 bushes on the final drive shaft of your gearbox ( after 72 they went to 2 needle bearings - something like 2 small end bearings.

For the clutch use 1/2 pint ( 300cc) of Automatic Transmission fluid. Most handbooks will recommend a 30 - but ignore this - as while OK in warmer climes - TQF or similar works best for us.

Also - if the bike has stood for years I would recommend changing at least the Timing side crank oil seals - as although it will start OK - they will have gone hard and wil spin off a little material after a while.

It is an easy job on a Bultaco has they are housed in a carrier behind ignition stator and you just undo the 6 bolts - remove and replace the seal ( probably only 1 each side on yours). This is also a good chance to check - or for the price of them even replace the points - set gap at 15 thou ( I use a filed down feeler guage - in width not thickness! - through the window in flywheel when you see the points open at their widest)

Finally - if you have a circuit tester of electric test meter to tell you when the points actual open - you can check ign timing by using a simple depth gauge down plug hole. The points should open at about 2.8 mm BTDC.

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