zippy Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Get a ride on an old twinshock with a cable clutch that is not set up very well. then ride the GasGas, all of a sudden the GasGas clutch will seem smooth and easy as a dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 I assume my 2014 would not be considered as the latest clutch with the 3 adjustments? From what I'm learning here I think I will lighten up the pull with clutch pack thickness if possible, as I'm in the early stages of trying to learn the basic skills, as my skills improve(hopefully) and I want more agressive clutch I can adjust again . The ATF, I'm learning, is an interesting subject. I'm hearing that there are many very different opinions on the use of this stuff. Some say it's great others have told me if it has run with ATF don't buy it. At some point I think I'll just try it and see if I can notice any positive or negative differences . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 This is what I found today when I had a look at the clutch... The clutch pack thickness is 9.85 which seems to be in the ballpark from what I understand. The finger height would appear to be off ; Measured several fingers, 15.33 15.23 15.21 14.75 14.27 15.05 etc does this mean I need new fingers? Any input would be very much appreciated . included a few pics of wear on underside of fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 I forgot to mention .The thickest friction plate was positioned to the outside of the stack,facing the clutch case cover, I've changed it to the inner most position , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 The fingers have nothing to do with it besides a measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 19 minutes ago, lineaway said: The fingers have nothing to do with it besides a measurement. Hi Lineaway. In your earlier post on this thread you said ,It's the finger height that matters they should be between 17.5-18mm,could you clarify please. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 The higher the fingers, the more leverage felt at the clutch lever. Too high of fingers they could rub on the case. Originally you could buy different thickness of steel plates. All good things go to sh-t so in todays world you have to sand the friction plates. (Or burn the clutch wildly against a wall) The 17.5 is straight down from the highest point of the fingers. That is what matters most! Sure you can measure the total thickness, but that what really matters is when it is all tightened up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, lineaway said: The higher the fingers, the more leverage felt at the clutch lever. Too high of fingers they could rub on the case. Originally you could buy different thickness of steel plates. All good things go to sh-t so in todays world you have to sand the friction plates. (Or burn the clutch wildly against a wall) The 17.5 is straight down from the highest point of the fingers. That is what matters most! Sure you can measure the total thickness, but that what really matters is when it is all tightened up. Got it... Thanks Lineaway. I'll do some sanding of the friction plates tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briangg Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 (edited) I disagree with lineaway on finger height being most important... in my opinion pack thickness is most important. The guy in the video didnt even measure the finger height only thing he cared about is the thickness, if he did care he should have measured before and after sanding the fibers. (so you can decide which you think is most important) Being a higher level rider, with having much different clutch mods and testing many different clutch pieces in my own gasgas. thickness is all i measure. ive had very good euro friend riders even tell me they dont measure finger height only pack thickness. as it was stated before thickness of the clutch changes the finger height so if thickness is good then height is good and thickness is the easiest to get right so there is no need to measure the fingers in my opinion. i just dont see how 9.85mm thickness is giving you such a tough pull as it should be killer nice pull at that thickness its not going to be the easiest ever but shouldnt be hard and the clutch at that thickness should work great. Check your master cylinder and make sure the lever isnt tightened so much it makes its harder to pull cause its pinched and also check the fluid in it. (make sure it is not mud looking) Also i would not in no way just burn my clutch in 4th gear against a wall or tree or whatever but if that works for you go for it. either get different steel or do the sanding method as your going to. The spec sheet shows a minimum thickness of 9.75mm so sanding some of that off you better watch cause that bit over you have will be gone quick and you will want some extra over that for when the clutch wears... below this the clutch will slip and will not work correctly from my experience. Id say 9.8mm is like the very thinnest id go with it but ehhh i personally wouldnt in my bike cause of wear and cause your stripping off clutch life. Edited June 18, 2018 by briangg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 It is a very fine line in the measurement process with the sanding. I still have a couple dozen steel plates around so I rarely sand myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 20 hours ago, lineaway said: It is a very fine line in the measurement process with the sanding. I still have a couple dozen steel plates around so I rarely sand myself. "Any man that says he doesn't sand himself is a liar." "Dad, do you sand yourself?" "Of course not!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 So ... I put everything back together.I did notice the thicker friction plate was in the outermost position (closest to the clutch case cover ,I re installed it in the innermost position. I did not sand the friction plates , thought I would try to find some thinner plates and try that first. The clutch fluid was very dirty so I flushed the lines and removed the top hat and cleaned that out also. Everything is back together now ,clutch is a little bit easier . Something new has come up since doing all this,now when I pull the clutch in the bike wants to creep forward so the clutch is not fully disengaging. Bleeding the clutch took a while to get all the air bubbles out but it now feels very solid . Could the creeping forward when clutch is engaged be anything else other than air still being trapped in the system ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bri Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Forgot to ask. I like the feel of a quicker more grabby clutch(on-off switch kinda) Is there a way to get that feel? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 With the age of the bike you might consider changing the o rings in the top hat of the slave cylinder. They start leaking, it could cause several problems. By the way dex 3/mercon. Been using it in all my trials bikes for more than 30 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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