lotus54 Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 After warm up, my 4T will start just find in gear with the clutch pulled in (all the way). It does not drag at all when all the way in. Normally I use one finger on the clutch and can’t pull it quite all the way in (hits my other fingers, even when slide in as far as possible), but no issue when riding at all like that. It will even start ok that way, but seems better all the way to the bar. For me, it starts really well- as long as I don’t kick it hard or fast. A gentle prod and it fires right up. I usually stand beside it, since that discourages a fast kick. mark 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyt Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 (edited) I am totally confused by this thread...... I ordered thinner clutch discs. Part #1343310-000, which are 2.70 mm. I measured all the clutch discs on my bike and they ranged from 2.95mm to 2.98 mm. I replaced the two thicker ones with the new, thinner plates and now the clutch pack is .55 mm thinner. This enables the clutch to fully disengage and start in gear without dragging. Also starting from cold and only running the bike for 30 seconds can put it into first gear and it doesn't jump forward. You put thinner plates in to be able to start the bike in gear? It is actually dangerous to start a trials bike in gear as it may take off flying off a rock with you squeeling all the way behind it. There is a reason Beta put thicker clutches plates in the 4T to start with. It is cheaper for Beta to use the same plates in a their trials models be it 2T or 4T. However they chose not to. A 4T has more instant torque than a 2T putting more heat into the plates causing an inconsistent clutch action and it may cause warpage long term with thinner plates. You could also remove more three plates and the bike would not jump either on start up due to there being even less friction......... DUH......... Clutches work on friction, stiction, energy transfer & heat dissipation. In my opinion this greatly improves the performance of the bike. How does this improve the performance of the bike? Thinner plates mean less spring pressure on the clutch pack equating to potential slippage at higher gears RPM's & excess heat generation specially on a torquey 4T. A higher class rider will rev and dump the clutch and with less clutch pack pressure the clutch will slip. You are the first person I know that changed the 4T clutch plates to solve a problem that nobody was trying to solve i.e start the bike in gear at the expense of a potential clutch pack slippage in higher gears. Most people try to adjust the clutch for its performance whilst running. To each his own. I sincerely hope you get the results you desired. Edited June 19, 2018 by billyt 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 I put one thinner clutch plate in my 2016 300 4T Factory over 2 years ago. It made the clutch pull a little easier, it's still running fine, and i am hard on my 4t, often using third gear in tight spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbelly Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 I have been riding trials for 30 years and my 19 300T Beta is the first bike that I have had that will not start in gear. To say that starting a trials bike in gear is dangerous is crazy. If it starts in gear with the clutch pulled how is that dangerous? I am very interested in the idea of trying a slimmer clutch stack if it means I can start it in gear. I am a reasonable rider and not hard on clutches so this interests me. Thanks for all the info given here. I just got mine (Factory edition} yesterday and trialed it today at a local event. It's going to take a little getting used too after years on a gasser 250. Engine braking being the biggest thing to learn!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trapezeartist Posted May 6, 2019 Report Share Posted May 6, 2019 If you think starting in gear with the clutch pulled in is dangerous, it might be best to keep away from motorbikes altogether. They’re dangerous. I would think Beta spec the clutch pack for the most aggressive rider they can imagine (probably the works riders). For someone who goes at things more gently, I can well imagine that one or two thinner clutch plates would be helpful. I’m having a few issues with my clutch (250 2T). I’m hoping to find a solution by changing gearbox oil but I’m keeping the “thin plates” option up my sleeve in case I need it (and in case it works). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVO290 Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Just picked up a 2011 EVO 290, clutch doesn't work unless I warm it up. gonna try the Tech Tip and set it to #2 setting. If this doesn't make it better Ill go with #3. I was told that it needs to warm up before using it. Once it's hot it works great. Love the bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wcmachine Posted March 20 Report Share Posted March 20 (edited) This is an old post but I thought it was worth adding this information. I installed Barnett 301-35-10012 friction plats in my 4T as posted by Daniel Williams. I can report that the annoying clutch sticking is gone but more importantly the grabbing is also gone. I can’t believe how much smoother the clutch is now. This obviously makes a huge difference in ultra tight turns. Currently I’m running four clutch spring which give a nice light feel. There is slight slipping in 5th gear. I’ve put abut 10 hours on this set up and had a look at it yesterday. No obvious wear or discoloration. I’m going to try all six springs with 3mm spacers next per Daniel Williams suggestion. Edited March 20 by Wcmachine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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