Tilly60 Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Hi I know this has been covered loads of time and I have been through the Beta forum i have done the “fix” with removing the glue, I have used light emery on the flat plates, the oil in gearbox is Silkoleane light gear oil 75w. Which is 10/40 I believe, this was in when purchased i have done the refitting and when I start up on stand, depress clutch and put in 1st or 2nd and the back wheel spins, if I put brake on then I can rev and engine doesn’t cut out so it’s slipping if put it in 4th or 5th the rear wheel doesn’t spin new clutch oil in reservoir and all bled, enough play at hand control end thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) You need new plates or you put it together wrong. Why did you take it apart? Edited June 23, 2018 by lineaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 all were cleaned in order and put back, flat plate, clutch plate etc it was working then stuck so I did the “fix” 1.2mm left on all clutch pads ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scifi Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) You say you have tested it on a stand, does this mean you have not tried riding it...? Maybe your bite point is out of adjustment... Have you re-assembled the push rods and mushroom correctly...? Aren't two of the plates thicker, and need to be put on the outer and inner of the clutch pack... You did put the springs back in..??? . Edited June 24, 2018 by scifi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 Yes only tested on stand, I bought the bike toook it out of garage next day and started it up, when I put into 1st gear it lurched forward and to be honest **** me up as not expexting it, so been apprehensive, hence only on the stand, did the clutch “ fix” i addjusted the hand lever so that the bite was just slack 3mm on the plates , at the back it’s fixed and front it’s the cover that fixes it, sure I put them back as was the springs have been tightened to the stops is there something I’m missing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
section swept Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Sounds as though you have only just got this bike. After standing it is quite normal for some bikes of this kind for their clutches to stick....not releasing when you pull in the clutch lever. The trick is to pull in the clutch and select 1st or 2nd gear and then rock the bike back and forth to free the clutch plates. Some will not free until you’ve got heat into the engine and more importantly the clutch, then they usually free up. If I’m reading your post right you have stripped the clutch down because of a perceived fault when there wasn’t one...no disrespect to your mechanical skills but it does sound as others have stated that you’ve assembled the clutch incorrectly. Hope you sort it out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Hi thanks for the reply i freed all the glue around the clutch plates as per the link on this site. when the cover is taken of the plates are behind the cover that is held in place by 6 bolts, washers and springs after the cleaning up I did the above in reverse its a lot better than it was i will strip and have another look ! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trapezeartist Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Cold stick is a pain, but not the end of the world. If rocking it in gear with the engine off doesn't clear it, put the front wheel against a wall. Run the engine, clutch in, knock it into second gear. It will probably just clear on it's own, but on my 4T it would just start turning the back wheel so I had to give it a sniff of throttle and bump my weight down on the bike. Done once, it was slightly draggy until the engine warmed up, then OK until it had stood for a few hours again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Thanks for this, just seems that Beta haven’t sorted this out as it’s been going on for years, I thought a fix would have been done via a mod to the plates, but hey ho will try and thanks again this I by far one of the best forums that I know of, and what’s brill we all have a common interest, - Bikes ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Thanks for this, I will try the different oil and let you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 9 hours ago, Nebulous said: The Silkoline 75w has a really bad viscosity index - which means it’s like really thick when cold , and water when hot. The plates have a hard time throwing that thick stuff off their surface. Here’s a trials central table of indeces. It would appear that , on a budget - the Mobil Dextron 6 would be your best bet. When I type in Mobil™ DEXRON-VI ATF I get Mobil ATF 320 is this it, sorry but not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilly60 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 15 minutes ago, Nebulous said: I didn’t mention ATF. Furthermore , I wouldn’t use ATF in case of clutch-plate swell. Try this. I have ordered the putoline as above, ?? crossed and thanks again ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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