shorty1978 Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 Bike has just started to foul plugs and then run terrible put in a new plug and starts first kick and it runs fine for maybe 10 hours or so then fouls again ! Carb has been cleaned recently and set up , and I’m using good oil and fuel and the right mix at 70:1 . Only thing I have done recently is change from an apico air filter to a jitsie pre oiled one which looks a bit bigger could it be that ??? Looking for advice on what to check next ! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorty1978 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 14 minutes ago, oni nou said: 1Did you try changing back to the old Apico air filter to see if that solves the problem ....... 2. try 80:1 and use an NGK EIX plug with the new jitsie filter. Yes I have reinstalled the apico air filter but yet to try . Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 tri blowing the soot out on every ride. yoy need some heat in the motor ffs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorty1978 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 3 hours ago, oni nou said: As nebulous says your plug on a 15 Factory should be a BPR type[Just in case you have a BR type fitted instead that is recommended for the 125 and 200 motor] plug in a 250 or 300 ...the 'P' stands for protruding tip this places the spark for combustion in a better position within the combustion chamber for a more efficient burn[less chance of fouling] ......the standard plug is a BPR7ES a 6 is considered better for the UK climate for better protection against fouling aswell;so that is why he recommended it.This information can all be found on this site. The plug I was running when it fouled was a bpr5es ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 I ran a BPR5ES for trials in a hot part of Australia in a Beta and it seemed to be the perfect heat range. If I was flogging it along tracks or on the road I would use a cooler plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Have you ever repacked the muffler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorty1978 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 10 hours ago, lineaway said: Have you ever repacked the muffler? Yes I’ve done it twice was a bit oily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 I would go back to when the carb clean as done. Did you do it yourself? Something happened. Carb in crooked not letting the choke return, bent the tangs on the float, left a jet loose, slide needle installed incorrectly(the needle is floating), choke sticking, gasket on seat has swelled, dropped something into a reed. Lots of little things could cause you all this grief. Running 70 to 1 should not be a problem. And I usually ran a bpr5es, I always seemed to have that heat range filling my parts bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorty1978 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 15 hours ago, lineaway said: I would go back to when the carb clean as done. Did you do it yourself? Something happened. Carb in crooked not letting the choke return, bent the tangs on the float, left a jet loose, slide needle installed incorrectly(the needle is floating), choke sticking, gasket on seat has swelled, dropped something into a reed. Lots of little things could cause you all this grief. Running 70 to 1 should not be a problem. And I usually ran a bpr5es, I always seemed to have that heat range filling my parts bin. Thanks for advice , carb was cleaned a couple of months ago and had been running fine previously, only thing I can think of is that I drain the carb after every ride you have to move it a bit to get to the drain bolt, I suppose I could of maybe not put it back straight would that make a massive difference??? I was in the middle of a trial when it started acting up so had been running fine for over an hour beforehand, I then checked things over and found the fouled plug dry black soot not oily or wet ! I installed a new plug and it seemed to run ok but my worry is will that happen again ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorty1978 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Nebulous said: In your previous thread , you said that the bike had gone into a shop for a carb-overhall. You then told us the bike was running absolutely fine - but were concerned about an oily-plug. My advice was to use a 6 plug and to ensure 80/1 was the richest mix you would use. Also to try giving it some throttle when riding. 3 weeks later , and you have a bike that is in danger of sparking a major woodland fire. Or at the very least - turning into an oil-powered jet-engine. This situation is insane - considering that not long ago , a shop gave you this bike back with some sort of warranty to cover their carb-service. For what anyone says - 15ml per 1000ml is 66.6/1 , and that is too rich. 14ml per 1000ml is 71.4/1 , and that is also too rich. 12.5ml per 1000ml is exactly 80/1 - and that is what you should put in your bike. Use a quality synthetic. For British climates , the recommended plug is a BPR6ES. Not a BR5ES or a BKPZ7YK-9. A BPR6ES. What you may use in Nevada or the Australian outback doesn’t matter a jot. Mixing fuel away from the bike is essential. Never try to judge amounts , or to pour oil into a fuel-tank. A blocked exhaust will then change scavenging characteristics - affecting swirl. You have an accelerating problem. A self-perpetuating one which will get worse - until you begin to get detonations. Then eventually you will have to rebuild the top-end and your exhaust. Assuming that you haven’t burnt yourself to death in your bloody kitchen. I cannot understand how the carb work can be a factor ? surely if it was apart from the plug colour the bike would show other bad running symptoms ??? which it does not ! It’s starting first or second kick , idling is nice ,deceleration is good and under acceleration it seems to have good power it has never stalled or cut out and doesn’t overly smoke either . I’ve always been anal about maintenance so air filter is always cleaned and re oiled and after a few cycles I buy a new one . My fuel is always fresh on the day and I use a good oil and I pour into the can measured properly and give a good shake ! My fuel tank and carb is drained after every ride again advice given by a reputable trials shop . As far as the plug I should be using I was told by beta uk to run a bpr5es and use a 70/1 fuel to oil ratio, I will admit tho I’m concerned about changing this to 80/1 and would worry about the engine not being lubrcated enough . The situation is insane because as far as I’m concerned I’ve done everything right , I did a trial 2 weeks ago and the bike never missed a beat and got a good run between sections, I never changed anything between that trial and the one on Sunday just gone and yet my bike lets me down in the middle of the trial by fouling a plug and it also got a good run between sections . I was hoping I got a duff plug but as said it ran fine on the same plug for 6 or so hours beforehand . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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