144hound Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 At end of the last trial the bike started surging near idle when riding along slowly, it also cut out a few times over the evenings riding which was pretty unusual as it's normally bullet proof. At time I thought it was either a oiled up plug failing or abit of grit in the carb as it was very dusty, chucked it in the van and called it a day. Thismorning thought I'd get it cleaned up before going out on it again, kicked it over and fired up on choke, let it idle for a few minutes then switched it off. Decided to change the plug, swapped it out and from this point it wouldn't start, No Spark, tried the old plug still nothing. Cleaned up all the earths and connections- no joy still. Pulled off plug cap to see if cables would arc out but still nothing. So don't think it's that, also put the multi meter on kill switch and it's functioning correctly. Found readings for checking stator, but not sure where I'm ment to take readings from.? I don't have a flywheel puller either I'm not sure if failing once I changed the plug just just coincidence, Any ideas lads? Your helps needed Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tshock250 Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 This era of sherco were very well known for stator failure, mine did it, some peoples had 2 or 3! The bike would fire up when the system had cooled down, then cut out when warm, revs would also fluctuate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v1nn1e Posted August 7, 2018 Report Share Posted August 7, 2018 See my latest post! May be worth checking the ignition coil first as, if it's anything like my 2011 model, they are cheap off ebay/amazon. Email Splat shop and they may be able to help with some readings for checking the Stator; I thought mine had gone when it was probably OK, so you have to take a wide margin on the numbers. If all else fails, Bradford Ignitions (motoplat) can test the Stator for you but you will need a flywheel puller, not to mention some serious torque on the nut - I had to get someone to use an Impact Wrench to get mine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
144hound Posted August 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2018 Hi guys, thanks for replys. I connected the drill with a socket on it to the flywheel nut and spun it up with the spark plug out, started sparking well above the speed (rpm) I could get by kicking it, so looks like stator to me, got a puller and have sent the stator off to Bradford ignitions. I thought while I'm working on it I'll replace the big end seals aswell. Tonight I've taken the clutch apart as I want to replace the seal that side too and rubbers in the basket, but for the life of me I can't get the nut off, even with the impact gun and heat (albeit only from s electric paint stripper gun) Just for my sanity, it's a normal thread so anti clockwise to spin it off? Given up on it for tonight, might try and borrow a better impact gun from work to attack it with at the wknd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
144hound Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Made progress today, sort of,,managed to rebuild clutch, borrowed a hilti impact drill from work and it span the clutch nut off easy. Stator came back from Bradford ignition and recieved parts this morning from splatshop, put a new viton seal in the stator side. I wanted to replace the crank seal clutch side too, which I thought would be the same setup as the ignition side. But there doesn't seem to be a seal there, I can see the main bearing. Which had a small thin bearing cover on it, until I pulled it off thinking it was the seal.? So now I can see the main bearing cage and bearings. There doesn't seem to be enough depth for a seal in case. I can't believe the sealed bearing would be sealing the joint between the clutch oil and bottom end.... is it located on the inner side of the LHS case? Thoughts?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Something strange with your cases from the sound of it, should have the sealed main bearings by now like you describe & a viton crankseal between the bearing & primary drive gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
144hound Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
144hound Posted August 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Picture of the bearing/ shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 That's the gearbox mainshaft bearing, no seal needed there. Crankseal is behind the gear that the clutch case is covering on the right, water needs draining to remove the casing & if you pull the waterpump cover with the hose still connected it helps with getting the waterpump gear meshed correctly when reassembling. Probably a good idea to do the waterpump seals while the case is off & check the condition of the shaft at the same time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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