Beta rev3 200 "how to dismantle clutch"

[russell46]

Hi guys.

 

My first trials bike aged 48, thought I'd give it a go after years of road bikes.

I've bought a 2006 beta rev3 200cc, 1 middle aged owner from new, cosmetically very good and I got carried away with this notion.

The more I looked the more I noticed, brakes worn down to metal, knackered chain etc, I've done a fair few jobs and the bills are totting up.

The main problem is when I start the bike and engage gear it lurches forward and stalls, I changed the gearbox oil and it still does it, I rock it in gear before hand.

I've read about the clutch fix, the thing is how and where exactly do I start?

Is it best with the bike upright or laid on its side? I drain the oil first? When I remove the cover is there a gasket that'll need replacing? Is there anything that will drop out once cover is removed? Any specific tools required?

I'm not a total numpty I fabricate/engineer plastic items for pharmaceutical companies etc, use lathes, milling machines etc it's just I've never been inside a engine before.

Thanks in advance

[dan williams]

Lay it on it’s side. Remove shift lever. Take off the four allen head screws on the clutch cover. Remove clutch cover being careful not to damage o-ring. Undo six bolts holding clutch pack in.

DO NOT PULL THE CLUTCH LEVER AFTER REMOVING THE BOLTS!!! Don’t touch it or you can pop the piston out of the slave cylinder and a simple job will become a real pain.

Remove springs and washers. Remove pressure plate, bearing usually comes with it. Remove clutch plates. I find the best tools for this are dental picks. They allow you to reach under the plates and pull them out individually. 

At this point you can reinstall the o-ring and clutch cover if you don’t want to leave the bike open on its side. Don’t touch that lever though. I’m warning you!!!

Now dress the plates removing glue and polishing the tabs per the clutch fix instructions. 

Reverse the process to reassemble the clutch pack. Once the plates are back in and the pressure plate and bolts/washers are back in you can pull the lever with the bike still on it’s side to see the pressure plate move. Put the cover and shifter back on and go ride.

Piece of cake except for the mind numbing effort of cleaning the plates.

Edited August 1, 2018 by dan williams

[trapezeartist]

Although I don't know the ins and outs of a Beta 2 stroke, I'd be confident there is nothing to be scared of in the clutch. You could drain the clutch and work upright or leave the oil and lay the bike over. It depends on your workshop and which is easier for you. I think you'll probably find an O ring under the cover rather than a paper gasket. Once you're in, it will be a simple task to undo all the clutch springs and then lift off the pressure plate and friction plates.

When I had a Beta 4 stroke I had the clutch in bits three times trying to reduce the cold stick. The "clutch fix" did nothing for me, though my bike was newer so you might get more benefit. The only thing that helped a little bit was to rough up the steel plates with emery and to clean off the surfaces of the fibre plates with fine wet'n'dry. Overall it was several hours out of my life for little benefit.

Consider whether you can just learn to live with cold stick. When it's liable to happen (first start after standing for a while), you just need to put the front wheel against something solid, pull in the clutch and engage second gear. That should clear it, even if you have to crack open the throttle slightly and bump your backside down on the seat. After clearing, it should remain good all day.

[markparrish]

I have a 2007 270 and it was just the same - you sound mechanically knowledgeable so don't be afraid to have a go - it's a relatively simple job to access the clutch as described already - I did the mods described in the Beta forum and still have the odd time when it jumps after selecting a gear - I don't know how Beta got away with a design that does this, but it seems that everyone has the same or similar issue. It can be improved but I'm not sure it can be completely solved. I just make sure I have the brakes applied when I select a gear for the first time - after a very short while it warms up and everything is normal again.

[dan williams]

I think there’s still some hydraulic lock that makes the bike jump a bit when the clutch is cold and hasn’t been actuated for a while but it’s still a lot better than the drag across the parking lot you get from the glue. The four strokes seem to have less consistant results and that may be due to using six of the thicker fiber plates.

[2stroke4stroke]

I used a Dremel to remove the glue - cuts the time.

Putting the bike against a wall is a bit brutal, I thought motocrossers lacked mechanical sympathy☺.  Engage first, whilst pushing off with the foot, keep the clutch lever held in and go up the box.  When you hit fourth the clutch will free and you can release the lever.

[russell46]

A genuine thank you for all of your replies.

Going to do the clutch mod myself at the weekend, if I don't try I'll never learn.

Thanks again

[russell46]

Hi guys

Did the clutch fix today, took 3 hours and thoroughly enjoyed it, far better than paying.

The difference was better than I could have hoped, engaged smoothly, no drag, easy to find neutral.

A new plug went in and a silencer repack and it's a different machine.

Joined my local trials park, waiting for pass to come though and I'm off, probably falling off but everyone did/does, right?

 

[dan williams]

On 8/4/2018 at 1:12 PM, russell46 said:

Joined my local trials park, waiting for pass to come though and I'm off, probably falling off but everyone did/does, right?

 

Yup we all take diggers! 

[trapezeartist]

"Does" in my case.