b40rt Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 Change the parts and be done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 If it helps, I had one of those diodes on my TY250D and it kicked back just as easily as my other TY250s that don't have diodes. I took the diode off the D motor for an experiment when I was diagnosing an ignition problem (that turned out to be a loose bullet connector on one end of the diode) and it still kicked back exactly the same. To improve your success rate when kicking it to start it, ease the piston up to as near to TDC as you can, either a bit before or a bit after, wherever it will stay still, but not too far before or past TDC. You are doing it slowly so it doesn't fire or go too far past TDC. Then let the kick lever return to the top and then give it the start kick. Keep full force on the kickstart lever as you move it, all the way till the lever hits the footpeg. That technique puts momentum into the crankshaft and flywheel before the piston gets to the firing position, so when it fires the motor will keep rotating forwards. People like me who have been riding these bikes for 45 years do that thing I described on autopilot, very quickly and don't even consciously think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tillerman6 Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 On 8/8/2018 at 12:35 AM, b40rt said: To check when the points open you need a bulb / buzzer and a battery to supply power. You will have little success with power generated at virtually zero revs. You are 100% right about that. I'm not used to dealing with the magnetic field and all the paths to ground. You and Feetupfun are a great help and I am putting the 12 volt source and the 12 volt incandescent light bulb setup right now. I suppose folks have thought of this stuff 50 years ago, but it's all new to me. I may end up putting a CDI on this bike if I can't get it to stop kicking my foot backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tillerman6 Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 3 hours ago, Tillerman6 said: re installed the newer points. The old set was burnt just enough that it was reading infinity, but with all the grounds in the circuit, it tricked me into installing them anyway. Tried the light trick and this time it worked. Helps to have an ammeter in series with the battery circuit as well. And the HV coil was disconnected as per Feetuyp fun's instructions. Permanent marks on the flywheel and cases to indicate 21mm BTDC AND NO KICKBACK! wOw! This is less advance than recommended, but if it works? Oh yeah! I was seeing about .090" to .100" of piston travel BTDC which seemed to translate to the 21mm on the flywheel if anyone is interested. Anyway, no more need for the dial indicator with this bike. Probably can leave the tank and seat on too next time. Really boiling it down, you just line up the 21mm marks to the original starting point on the cases and tweak the points bracket until the light goes dim. Then tighten up the clamp screw and you should be in time! The 21mm mark is to the left of the TDC mark on the flywheel. Thanks a million guys! 3 hours ago, Tillerman6 said: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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