ahh_me2 Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 ummm, new guy and newbie(trials) here. Just bought a 2001 Rev3 250 and wanted to check the fluids, after removing the plastic cover on the left side of the frame/tank, I saw the "rad cap" but it seems there is a plastic/metal block preventing it from un-threading upward, what am I missing? other than a few brain cells lol Here's my view of it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nh014 Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Beta has an electrical junction box, the wiring looms, and the radiator cap all jammed into that small space. Usually you can force the box over enough to remove the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Use a screwdriver and the heel of your hand to undo the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahh_me2 Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Thanks, was able to push the box over enough to unscrew the cap and remove it. Using a mirror I looked down the spout, it goes down 2 inches or so then branches off at 90 degrees, couldn't see any coolant. Should coolant come right up to the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 I used fill it right up then put a clear tube down to the required level (top of body of radiator) then sook out the surplus with a syringe. But any excess would be expelled anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahh_me2 Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 So not knowing what coolant fluid was used, I ended up draining the whole thing, I didn't get very much out, it must have been pretty low. It was a blue liquid, I'm thinking it's the Arctic Ice coolant that is sold around here at the moto dealers. I guess once it's a known fluid, a person can simply top it up on a regular basis as there doesn't seem to be any way of determining actual level. All part of the ongoing maintenance of a trial bike I suppose. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
section swept Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Just ensure any anti freeze that you use is compatible with aluminium. Better than plain water use distilled water as this will be contaminant free (chemicals etc) but mix the anti freeze and water in a container so you have the correct ratio available and don’t have to guess how much of what to put in. 50/50 is a ratio that I use as the anti freeze raises the boiling point of water but about 15%. Good anti freeze will have a lube additive in it for the water pump seal and corrosion inhibitors to keep everything nice and clean in the cooling system. A little plastic bag with some Cayenne Pepper will be invaluable if you hole the radiator (small pin prick tiny stone nick etc) add the Cayenne into the cooling system and add water, run the engine and when the Cayenne meets the atmosphere it solidifies and stops the leak. It’s messy on a bike and will need to be flushed out during repairs, a similar kit ( little cardboard box ) used to be sold in auto shops as rad leak stopper, the contents of the box looked like a small dog turd and that’s what the trade called it but it was basically Cayenne Pepper. I’m suggesting this as you might be miles from anywhere out in the sticks and no one around, hope you’ve got a good aim as you’ll need a water supply to be squirted into that small rad cap hole??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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