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Just Bought A Tys125f...


piruleiro
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hello,

some days ago I bought a TYS-125F (with hydraulic clutch).

Just few questions from a newbie:

- Together with the bike I got the smaller, z11 sprocket.

I need to mount it, but I didn't found a real seeger in the packet,

just a small (open), bronze colored ring.

Do I have to use it for z11 sprocket mounting?

- the bike does not start easy. I need 15, extremely tiring minutes to start the engine... is it notmal?

- cannot find the idle set...where is it? and where is the air screw on

the carburator?

- the manual talks about 1000km. for run up.

1000 km???? so many weekends...

sorry for the stupid questions, thank you for your attention...

m.

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- cannot find the idle set...where is it? and where is the air screw on

the carburator?

The idle screw is on the left hand side of the carb very hard to get to.

you need a long flat bladed screwdriver and have to do it from the left of the bike.

The air screw is at the front of the carb on the bottom.

this is also hard to get to but can be done using a very small stumpy screwdriver.

the manual talks about 1000km. for run up.

1000 km???? so many weekends...

It probably means for running the bike in when it is brand new.

James

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The motor on the TY-125 is built very tight and takes time to break in. My advice is to leave the idle and air screw where the are set at the factory. After a few rides the motor will start easier and will idle nicely. If you adjust the carburator now you wil be resetting it as it breaks in.

In the cold weather it will take some time to warm up.

Good luck, I have had mine for two years now and have been very happy with it.

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- the bike does not start easy. I need 15, extremely tiring minutes to start the engine... is it notmal?

I do not have a TYS but 15 minutes to start is NOT NORMAL no matter what bike you have. Try turning on the fuel then laying the bike on its side until fuel leaks from the carb, this will flood the carb and raise tohe fuel level which might nmake the bike easier to start.

Try kicking the bike both with the choke on and off and with the throttle open and closed. If you cant work out a method of starting it within 5 or 10 kicks each time from cold I would be straight back on to the phone to the dealer for advice.

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thank you bvery much for your replies.

as far as

"the manual talks about 1000km. for run up"

I understood what it means, what I tried to say in my unperfetct english is that they are so many kilometers for this type of bike (it's not a transalp or something...)

what about the sprocket topic? any help?

m.

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The 11 tooth sprocket should come with a circlip which snaps into the groove on the shaft after you fit the sprocket.

To start my TYS I use full choke and very importantly NO THROTTLE, put your hand on the handlebar beside the throttle to avoid twisting. It always starts on the third kick.

As soon as it starts reduce choke to 1/2 and then very gently begin to apply throttle as the TYS does take a bit of coaxing when cold.

Whenever it is warm one kick is all it ever needs.

I would suggest touching no carb settings until run in and then fit the pilot and main jets and airbox mods as recommended by the distributors. This should further improve starting.

Regards

Rab

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Because the TY is built to be road registered. It has to pass stringent noise and emmisions test ( these tests are carried out with restricted airbox - keeps down induction noise. and longer gearing - again less revs for same speed.) Airbox and other mods are for "OFF road use ONLY" as they say in the classics!

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fit the pilot and main jets and airbox mods as recommended by the distributors

nobody told me about these "recommended mods".

(mhh, my retailer seems to know much better the sherco bikes...)

I only mounted the exhaust system tube without the catalysator.

where can I get info for other mods?

m.

Edited by piruleiro
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Orite lads, lets try and sort your problems out on - 125/175 four stroke set up - first start by fitting 17.5 pilot jet, 102.5 main jet. set float height to 18mm (turn carb upside down, bottom off, gasket off, measure from base of carb to top of float). Also blow out the 2 small jets in back of carb to make sure that 145 is at the top and the 80 at the bottom as you can get them mixted up and causes it to run sick, the mixture screw should be set at 1 and 1/2 turns out, but this can vary.

Make sure there is ample play on the choke cable when turning handle bars lock to lock to ensure the choke is not coming on.

Removing exhaust baffles, only remove the 2 middle restrictor bars, DO NOT TAKE THEM ALL OUT!

Flywheel modification, standard is 2.1 kg, skim to 1.6/1.7 kg, this will improve performance at the bottom end.

If your bike is a long ride version, you need to contact me for the airfilter modification, but all the above aplies to the long ride also.

Clutch, there is a different hydraulic clucth kit available, (not Hebo) this is the best that you can buy, it gives the clutch a more progressive feel, this only aplies to the earlier 4-strokes as the new 05's come with an improved Magura system which equaly as good, but these clutch kits will fit on any year 125/175 long ride/racing models.

If you have any other problems, please do not hesitate to ring me at Birkettmotosport Uk Ltd.

Tel.01229-716806

Hope this has helped, Kev Seward.

This info is from the uk importer on recomended carb setup. Don't know if it would need to be any differant for italy though.

Cheers Glenn

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