Fantic 200 Steering Head Bearings

[trapezeartist]

I thought I saw a thread on here a while ago on this topic, but I can't find it now. On my bike, the bearings are quite exposed. I'm sure I saw somewhere that there is supposed to be some sort of cap to protect them from the elements. Mine felt a little rough when I was in the garage tonight, so now seems like the time to get it all sorted out properly. Any advice?

[cangy1000]

They don't have a cap as standard, which came as a surprise to me.

I got new O-rings (when I replaced my bearings) as they was totally squashed into the ally ring...to be honest, I didn't realise they were there.

Hopefully the new O-rings will do the same job as a cap...not sure yet as the bike has only had a few outings since I've done it.  

[trapezeartist]

I've just pulled mine apart. There's an O ring on the bottom as well as a motley collection of spacers and a rough and rusty bearing. [First photo]

The outer race is a bit rough too. [Second photo]

The top bearing is pretty good, though it has no O ring and was topped by an odd spacer with some random sawcuts in it. [Third photo] I assume that the saw cuts are a bit of history and the part may even have come from other application originally.

So now I need to replace the bottom bearing, but so far gentle persuasion has failed to move either the bottom outer race or the bottom inner. Can I reasonably expect to be able to drift them off with a hammer, or am I going to have to resort to some serious brutality?

It looks like I also need a couple of O rings and a spacer for the top to put it on.

I've never done a steering head before so I'm not sure of the fit of the bearings or of any clever knacks for removing and fitting. All advice would be welcomed.

[bullylover]

Hi trapezeartist. The outer part of the bearing you should be able to use a long round punch or just a piece of metal bar long enough to go through the frame and hit from the top and knock it out that way. There should be just enough of a lip on the inside on the steering head frame to grab. The inner one is always a real pain. The last few I`ve done I just use a cut off blade (1mm) on a 5 inch grinder and use an angle cut across the whole thing. Just try to not cut into the main shaft. You usually have to cut all of the way through it. It does look as if it is a bit past its useby date. Cheers Graham.

[section swept]

Have a look on google or similar for videos on this. Watching is learning. Don’t do anything until you’ve had a good session on this topic. There are numerous ways to achieve a good result with head bearings, but it is all to easy to pressure the wrong component or part of the bearing and do damage. Britannia Motocycles has some good videos on this. There are others. The outer tracks or races can be forced out of the headstock (frame tube that holds the bearings) but support the frame underneath the headstock on a bench or substantial piece of wood. An old socket bar long enough to go through the head stock at an angle so as to rest securely on the outer track, with a two pound at least hammer copper is even better squarely hit the bar...wear safety specs....now move the position of the bar around to about six o’clock from the starting point and hit again do this evenly moving round as you proceed. You may need to find another suitable bar or sacrificial long screwdriver to maintain contact with the outer track. Eventually the track will drop free and you will more than likely clobber your hand if you are not prepared. Now you can either turn the frame upside down to perform the same operation on the top track....if the bikes complete then either lay the bike in its side or get someone to brace themselves against the frame and push down while you work from the underside. TIP I look to find a socket  that will fit into the headstock but foul on the outer track, this gives a positive action and you just hit down on the socket bar with the socket attached to the bar, all nest and professional! To install the new outer tracks you will first need to inspect the areas that the tracks fit into, for burrs, scrapes and cuts. Smooth any vid these down do not increase the diameter of the headstock bearing housing. Now you can either find a suitable sized socket that fits perfectly on the outside edge of the bearing track you must not place any striking force onto the bearing track face. With this selected or suitable solid steel bar you can tap the outer bearing tracks into the headstock. If you have a large G clamp you could try this as a compressor to force the outer tracks into place. People who have experience replacing taper roller and other types of bearings may just use a punch tool to drift in the tracks or a hydraulic press. You could make up a fitting tool by obtaining a long threaded bolt that passes through the head stock and use washers and the correct size of socket or similar to squeeze the outer tracks into place. You will need to start the outer tracks on their journey into the headstock do this by first push by hand the outer tracks into position and with a gentle tapping action from a hammer start the tracks entering the housing...they will invariably spring out or start unevenly and you must get them going home straight they don’t always react this way but most do! You must ensure that the outer tracks are fully home or seated. There will be a distinct change in sound from the ringing hit to a dead sound, this indicates that the track is fully home, but still check carefully with an inspection light if needed. The top bearing is usually smaller than the bottom as this carries most of the weight, so don’t mix them up. I have had apprentices fit the tape tracks the wrong way round then they wonder why nothing fits so make sure you have everything the correct way round! Be aware that it is possible to distort the frame in the headstock area with excessive brute force so you have been advised. That inner bearing on the fork needs to be washed off thoroughly, look between the bearing and the fork yoke steering tube and see if any shims or spacers are present. A previous contributor suggested grinding through the bearing inner track to remove, this is a tried and proven method, but it is one that needs great care as you don’t want to cut into the steering tube, also mentioned previously. I prefer to heat the bearing track after first getting rid of the bearing cage and rollers, do this by levering the cage upwards and outwards a stout screwdriver might be a tool that you would use or a small price bar would be better. Now apply heat to the bearing inner track .....heat the track only....hot air gun or blowtorch...wear gloves so you don’t burn your hands etc. Heat until you see the track turn bluish, take the whole assembly and turn it upside down and bang the steering tube squarely straight down onto a solid piece of wood. This should start the bearing inner track moving, reheat and repeat until the track is free or use mole grips to grip the track and tap the mole grips with a hammer to free the track fro the steering head tube. Do I need to remind you not to damage the threads of the steering tube. Clean everything thoroughly and prepare to rebuild. Here I will refer you to the videos as this is taking a long time to write up. Hope you get sorted. Use fresh grease on the new bearings and patch them with it well. I use waterproof grease from the Marine industry so the grease stays in place longer.??

[trapezeartist]

Thanks bullylover and section swept. You've confirmed what I was anticipating.

I had already tried drifting out the outer race, but not giving it a great deal of force. I'll go back to it with a bit more vigour.

The steering spindle seems to be aluminium (from the photo, I'm not near the bike at the moment to check) so I don't think heat is going to go much on the inner race. I'll smash the bearing cage off somehow and then apply some delicate grinding to the inner race. When I've done that in the past I've found the race cracks just before it's reduced to zero thickness, which helps avoid marking the spindle with the grinding wheel.

I don't have a replacement bearing yet and there's a trial I want to do on Sunday, so I think I may reassemble and put up with the rough steering for this one event. Then attack the job again early next week. I think I'll need to organise some better sealing against the elements so the job will be a bit more than just dealing with the bearing.

[section swept]

1 hour ago, trapezeartist said:

Thanks bullylover and section swept. You've confirmed what I was anticipating.

I had already tried drifting out the outer race, but not giving it a great deal of force. I'll go back to it with a bit more vigour.

The steering spindle seems to be aluminium (from the photo, I'm not near the bike at the moment to check) so I don't think heat is going to go much on the inner race. I'll smash the bearing cage off somehow and then apply some delicate grinding to the inner race. When I've done that in the past I've found the race cracks just before it's reduced to zero thickness, which helps avoid marking the spindle with the grinding wheel.

I don't have a replacement bearing yet and there's a trial I want to do on Sunday, so I think I may reassemble and put up with the rough steering for this one event. Then attack the job again early next week. I think I'll need to organise some better sealing against the elements so the job will be a bit more than just dealing with the bearing.

You may find a suitable sealing method at Simply Bearings they have flat discs with bonded seals attached to curved and dished covers. A far o ring may do the trick, I have used this method and as long as it clears the frame headstock it should keep out the nasty stuff.

[trapezeartist]

8 hours ago, section swept said:

You may find a suitable sealing method at Simply Bearings they have flat discs with bonded seals attached to curved and dished covers. A far o ring may do the trick, I have used this method and as long as it clears the frame headstock it should keep out the nasty stuff.

Interesting website I've never seen before. It looks like they have the bearing I need for about £6 instead of about £15 in other places. But I'll have to check dimensions when I get the old one out. Family delays mean I didn't get out to the garage tonight.

[section swept]

10 hours ago, trapezeartist said:

Interesting website I've never seen before. It looks like they have the bearing I need for about £6 instead of about £15 in other places. But I'll have to check dimensions when I get the old one out. Family delays mean I didn't get out to the garage tonight.

There are equally good suppliers, but my experience with the aforementioned has been outstanding! They supply most of the special adhesives and resins for installation of specialist application bearings. Be careful with head bearings as the tracks can be narrower than  you would expect ie when installed the outer track can sit too high both top and bottom of the headstock. This is a mistake made by a number of people, and the suppliers can get it wrong to! There are instances on trials central of this issue, mainly Bultaco if I remember correctly, so you may not have the same issue with your Fantic but measure carefully before ordering...good luck?

[b40rt]

Please consider supporting bike / fantic dealers, if we don't they may not be there when you need them.

[section swept]

12 hours ago, b40rt said:

Please consider supporting bike / fantic dealers, if we don't they may not be there when you need them.

Agree totally with your sentiments, but market research is no bad thing as we aren’t all able to pay what someone asks for spare parts. 

[trapezeartist]

Well I ran out of time to do the job, so I carefully cleaned to rusty old bearing with WD40, re-greased it and put it back together. At the moment it is pleasingly smooth and no problem at all in riding. It may be a few more events before I get out the bodger's tools and change it. But thanks everyone for the advice, that has pointed me in the right direction.