Gas gas front brake upgrade

[atty2002]

I've got a gas gas txt pro  04 with ajp front caliper and master cylinder.  I was thinking of upgrading the just the front with a a brektec Front caliper and master cylinder as I've been offered a new set cheap. First of all does it fit straight on? And would it make a difference? thanks oliver

[faussy]

Not 100% sure on the compatibility. Lineaway will tell you its a downgrade, lol, id say it could be a upgrade if you install a new wavy disc as well. If your ajp are in good working order, you mightened experience as big of an upgrade as you may be expecting

[oni nou]

2 hours ago, atty2002 said:

I've got a gas gas txt pro  04 with ajp front caliper and master cylinder.  I was thinking of upgrading the just the front with a a brektec Front caliper and master cylinder as I've been offered a new set cheap. First of all does it fit straight on? And would it make a difference? thanks oliver

Everything fits straight on except If you fit a BRICTOK mono calliper the fitting is 8mm for the hose connecting into the calliper so you would need a hose[not cheap] with an 8mm fitting as well as the master cylinder and calliper........it will be better as it will be new components but probably the disc and pads are the important bit as an old scored disc and glazed dirty brake pads do not work as well as they should. You need Galfer pads aswell

The old system will work very well with no leaks[new seal kits possibly needed if leaking now]] and properly bled with fresh dot 4 and a new NG or Galfer disc[ if they make one that fits your year] and either Galfer 1805 GF  or Goldfren S33 pads.

Your bike should have a fixed disc and not a 'floating' one[moves about slightly on the hub carrier] so make sure if you order a disc you get the correct hole size for the mountings .i.e the smaller holes.

Edited September 28, 2018 by oni nou

[klonheadd]

I had the same ajp setup on beta. Tried the galfer pads - brake was a bit stronger. Now using monoblock+ master cylinder from braktec. Had to use hose + banjo fitting which you can easily get from splatshop.co.uk. They have a range of venhill hoses and fittings for it- works perfect. Now I can really enjoy the stopping power and play with stoppies, ride downhill on the front wheel with a lot of control. Well worth it IMO and I could not get stopping power that I wanted from the stock setup. And I havent tried a wavey disc yet - it should be even better then. 

[lineaway]

 I would be wondering the `WHY` in the new set cheap.

[atty2002]

Thanks for your advice ?

So basically if give my ajp a good service and better pads they should be pretty good?

I don't think the seals have gone otherwise I would lose brake fluid I guess? 

[huski]

Is the new set brand new or new to you?If brand new it's definitely a good upgrade,second hand may be different.The early Braktec stuff was variable quality,the new is good.

[lineaway]

4 hours ago, atty2002 said:

Thanks for your advice ?

So basically if give my ajp a good service and better pads they should be pretty good?

I don't think the seals have gone otherwise I would lose brake fluid I guess? 

 Yes, my Bractec is hanging on my wall (They never worked right from new.) and I am using a 12 year old AJP set. I rode my sons TRRS awhile last night and his brakes are way better, in fact the front is too good. A good AJP works just fine.

[section swept]

Before you go changing things have a look at the diameters of your current AJP caliper (one L in brake caliper) pistons, now compare with the Braktec/Bricktop/Brokentop whatever you call them piston diameters. Now have a look at the brake master cylinders and compare piston diameters. If they are all the same as each other there will be no hydraulic advantage to gain only that the bores of each original item may be slightly scored and worn. Very often just giving the whole system a dam good clean with careful attention to the caliper and pistons. Clean using soapy water and a not too coarse toothbrush to scrub around the caliper and piston areas. With the hydraulics still intact gently operate the brake lever to pump the pistons out a few mm, put some packing in between the pistons so they cannot pop out. Look at the pistons and any signs of rusting or scoring could mean a caliper seal is damaged, they don’t always leak fluid out but can allow air in! Light discolouration should come off with the toothbrush action, if it’s on the very edge and away from the seal then a light use of a cleaning agent like toothpaste (yes it does work very much like gentle metal polish). Clean thoroughly all traces of polishing agent and dry, use a small paint brush and apply to the exposed piston a quantity of brake fluid....no penetrating fluids like WD etc unless you have brake grease. Gently ease the pistons back into the caliper, refit caliper to fork leg checking that the caliper sits evenly with disc in the middle of the caliper body. Now clean the brake disc thoroughly on both sides with soapy water and a scrubbing brush, while the disc has soapy mixture on it get a piece of 1200 grit wet and dry and glaze bust the brake pad area of the disc using gentle wiping pressure around the disc, I am assuming that the disc is not scored too heavily clean and dry thoroughly...a common failing here is to fit new brake pads to an old disc and expect instant perfect braking, which is not the case.....the scored lines around the disc reduces the contact area between the pad and the dis by up to 50% until the scores have cut into the pads and bedded in by which time you will be seriously teed off and start looking at other choices, like you currently are. A new disc and pad set of the correct material should provide comparable braking to when the bike was new. It’s a manufactures specification that gets you a bike with a brake that is progressive and not instantaneous stoppie power....usually meaning the rider going straight over the handlebars?. It’s this that makes it so easy for after market manufacturers to supply at great expense to the purchaser brakes that exceed the original set up! Personal taste ie what the works riders use and what’s fitted as standard are usually worlds apart from what the average Mr Trials Rider actually needs. To refer back to another comment, ask yourself WHY is this alternative brake system being offered ‘cheap’??

Edited September 30, 2018 by section swept
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