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Tubeless valve and rim corrosion


drca
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1 hour ago, section swept said:

Nah don’t believe in all of them Ologies, but had to teach Science to some learned individuals??‍??‍???‍???‍♂️?‍♀️

Thats the difference then, i teach science for a living. 

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4 minutes ago, section swept said:

Like to be entertaining, but informative too! Serious about the travel sickness, that’s why you can still obtain earth discharge straps that hang down off the rear of the chassis/body. What with nylon seat material, nylon content in tyres, etc etc the static that can build up is noticed by some people. You even get some car owners getting a static shock when they get out of their car and touch the door handle. Manufacturers either use non conducting materials for door handles or trust to the paint to provide insulation, but the first scratch on the handle and zap. Also serious about rim issues, anything that helps an owner to understand a problem or reason for something happening and hopefully provide a solution or remedy is what I’m about. I like to keep things light hearted to as this is a sport to be enjoyed?

There's no doubt that there are problems with static charge build-up in cars and yes you can buy conductive straps to help discharge the static from a car, but where I live it is thought that car sickness is caused by a conflict between our three bodily balance mechanisms

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6 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

There's no doubt that there are problems with static charge build-up in cars and yes you can buy conductive straps to help discharge the static from a car, but where I live it is thought that car sickness is caused by a conflict between our three bodily balance mechanisms

Last time i checked reading in the back seat of cars didnt cause an excess of static build up

Seems it was already debunked many years ago

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/721219/Flying-doctor-Motion-sickness.html

"Most "cures" for motion sickness are useless. There is no point, for example, in fitting conductive strips to cars to discharge static electricity. Even if static contributed to motion sickness, any static charge on a car would be on the surface, not the interior."

Edited by faussy
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1 hour ago, feetupfun said:

There's no doubt that there are problems with static charge build-up in cars and yes you can buy conductive straps to help discharge the static from a car, but where I live it is thought that car sickness is caused by a conflict between our three bodily balance mechanisms

Agree but the placebo affect worked, static charge is on the conductive surfaces of the object usually discharged when the first person out of the car touches both object and ground. Don’t try refuelling a helicopter without first discharging the static build up otherwise kaboom!

 

1 hour ago, faussy said:

Last time i checked reading in the back seat of cars didnt cause an excess of static build up

Seems it was already debunked many years ago

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/721219/Flying-doctor-Motion-sickness.html

"Most "cures" for motion sickness are useless. There is no point, for example, in fitting conductive strips to cars to discharge static electricity. Even if static contributed to motion sickness, any static charge on a car would be on the surface, not the interior."

I can never read anything like a map or book in a car front or rear as it makes me nauseous. Agree nothing to do with static, but those straps still exist. I find that excess alcohol prevents travel sickness in trains boats and planes, cars too but it tends to get messy when the inbibers brain works out what’s going on.

Edited by section swept
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25 minutes ago, section swept said:

By the way these posts are coming thick and fast is no one working, or are you looking as though you are working? I’m staring at a pile of washing that has yet to reach the washing machine, but it’s no good I just feel too static to be bothered?

:lol: typing furiously as i respond to your posts is making me look as busy as ive ever been 

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Gentlemen - if we can get back to the original post, please..........!

The point I attempted to make in my response is that any alloy rim will corrode if neglected.

However, I think  in the case of DC's bike I would be very disappointed to find that level of corrosion in just 5 years, particularly to a tubeless rim. (My understanding of these is that they should be particularly well-sealed against such deterioration, with  the inflation valve the only weakness - or maybe I have that wrong.)

I should point out that the Bulto/Akront tubed rim in my pic. had worn its tyre undisturbed since 30 years ago, (when I bought the bike as a non-runner) and possibly up to  34 years (when the tyre was new)   - and of course has many more holes to allow the ingress of moisture than a tubeless ........

 

 

 

Edited by lorenzo
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3 hours ago, lorenzo said:

 

However, I think  in the case of DC's bike I would be very disappointed to find that level of corrosion in just 5 years, particularly to a tubeless rim. (My understanding of these is that they should be particularly well-sealed against such deterioration, with  the inflation valve the only weakness - or maybe I have that wrong.)

 

Maybe DC's bike was run with a tube in the rear tyre for a while (which would let water in and would be slow to dry out)

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23 hours ago, feetupfun said:

There's no doubt that there are problems with static charge build-up in cars and yes you can buy conductive straps to help discharge the static from a car, but where I live it is thought that car sickness is caused by a conflict between our three bodily balance mechanisms

Would that be beer, wine and spirits?

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6 hours ago, feetupfun said:

Maybe DC's bike was run with a tube in the rear tyre for a while (which would let water in and would be slow to dry out)

Good point, also leaving the bike standing unused for a time would allow the water to go bad and attack the rim quicker. Although the same problem occurs with race bikes (read track day that don’t get tyres swapped every five minutes)and road bikes the heat generated riding at speeds much higher than a trials iron would travel at usually dries off any moisture so the issue takes longer to become a problem. Leaving the tyres at a relatively low pressure ie 4 psi may also allow the water trapped between tyre, tube and rim to puddle and work more effectively. Maybe inflating the tyres back up to 15-20 psi might squash the water and spread it into smaller droplets that might not be able to do so much damage. The only other alternative is to pop the tyre off and dry inside?although this might make getting down the pub a bit later than usual?

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1 hour ago, section swept said:

Good point, also leaving the bike standing unused for a time would allow the water to go bad and attack the rim quicker. Although the same problem occurs with race bikes (read track day that don’t get tyres swapped every five minutes)and road bikes the heat generated riding at speeds much higher than a trials iron would travel at usually dries off any moisture so the issue takes longer to become a problem. Leaving the tyres at a relatively low pressure ie 4 psi may also allow the water trapped between tyre, tube and rim to puddle and work more effectively. Maybe inflating the tyres back up to 15-20 psi might squash the water and spread it into smaller droplets that might not be able to do so much damage. The only other alternative is to pop the tyre off and dry inside?although this might make getting down the pub a bit later than usual?

After I get home from a wet trial, I pump the (tube type) tyres up to about 30 psi with the valve holes at the bottom. This squishes most of the water out of the rim. Then I put the bike on a stand and let the tyres down to flat (remove valve cores) and push the tyre beads off their seats in a few places. In our warm dry climate, the rest of the water inside dries out quite quickly. I also loosen off the magneto cover to let that dry out too.

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On 03/10/2018 at 11:27 AM, feetupfun said:

After I get home from a wet trial, I pump the (tube type) tyres up to about 30 psi with the valve holes at the bottom. This squishes most of the water out of the rim. Then I put the bike on a stand and let the tyres down to flat (remove valve cores) and push the tyre beads off their seats in a few places. In our warm dry climate, the rest of the water inside dries out quite quickly. I also loosen off the magneto cover to let that dry out too.

If you put an air gun over the valve hole you can siphon a surprising amount of water out. (not siphon, but you get the picture)

Edited by b40rt
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