wtct Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) Hi! I have problem with setting suspension in my Beta Evo 300 2T Factory 2017. I have started to play with riding SAG because the rear suspension feels strange - not springy enough in my opinion. Spring length was set originaly to 125mm but I measured riding SAG and it is 85 mm which is almost 50% of total rear wheel travel - 180mm. My weight is 70 kg. What is more when I'm standing on this bike I can see that shock almost ahieve rubber stop. In user manual is nothing about the SAG. There is only spring length in configuration. In the internet there is a lot information about setting the sag to 1/3 of total travel so it is 60 mm. I have just increased spring preload by 8 turns and ahieved 70 mm SAG. Bike feels now more springy but the static SAG is only 9mm and it is probably to low. Please could you help me how to set spring properly because I'm now realy confused. Edited November 3, 2018 by wtct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Figuring out your definition of springy is tough on the internet, but the bike shouldn't be springy by my definition. You want between 10 and 20mm static sag. At your weight, with the standard spring, I'd shoot for something closer to 10. Then go ride and adjust the damping to taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtct Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) 15 minutes ago, heffergm said: Figuring out your definition of springy is tough on the internet, but the bike shouldn't be springy by my definition. You want between 10 and 20mm static sag. At your weight, with the standard spring, I'd shoot for something closer to 10. Then go ride and adjust the damping to taste. Thanks for suggestion! When I'm trying to compress harder the rear suspension then it feels like nothing to compress - squish. It feels like wet sponge. Don't mislead with too slow compresion or rebound. What is more the shock aviehes rubber stop. Edited November 3, 2018 by wtct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Like I said, 10-20mm static sag, should be good. Sounds like you're about there already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtct Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 2 minutes ago, heffergm said: Like I said, 10-20mm static sag, should be good. Sounds like you're about there already. I will decrease current 8 turns preload by 1 or 2 turns and it will be as you said. Could you share more explanation why 10-20mm static sag should work? I can find some information about importance of riding sag above static sag and 1/3 sag of total travel but it looks like it is not working for beta or my spring is too weak form me to ahieve 10-20mm static sag and 60mm riding sag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heffergm Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I've never bothered setting rider sag. If your spring is about right for your weight (probably 65 or 70N/mm in your case, which is typically what bikes come with) you'll be fine. Another way to say this is if your spring is stock, just set static sag to 10mm and ride it. There's no way the spring or the shock are dead on a 2017 beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartzero Posted November 4, 2018 Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 Think about it. How can you set both a static sag, and a sag relevant for the weight of rider. You can't. For most riders ie. average weight 10.5 to maybe 12 stone, then 10mm static sag is probably about right (i.e it results in 1/3rd sag when they're on the bike. However the way to set it up correctly is 1/3rd sag when the rider is 'on it'. For a heavier rider this will result in no static sag at all. Conversely a lighter rider will have much more static....... As your shock spring 'ages' you may well need to reset the preload to keep it at 1/3rd travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) You've not said how it handles in a section. Sag is irrelevant. It's how lazy people set preload. Are you bottoming out in a section? Is the rear so stiff bumps deflect the rear wheel making it hard to hold a line? Does the front end push in a corner? Can you hold a line while turning over rough ground? Does the rear try to come over on a drop off? What is the problem you are trying to solve? At 70 kilos you are near the bottom of the recommended weight for the stock spring so you shouldn't have to dial in much preload at all. Most important is you have the front and rear tuned to a similar setting. If you feel the suspension is a bit too soft then crank in a little more preload at both ends but do it from riding not just a preset number. Small adjustment, ride, small adjustment. You may find a reactive suspension handles awful in your style of riding. Damping is also important and this will change with temperature. Forks are easily tuned with different weight oils and Beta made some sketchy decisions with higher than normal fork oil viscosity. A stiff fork will make the rear end seem too soft. You have to ask the right questions and they are all about how the bike behaves in the target application. Edited November 5, 2018 by dan williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightychub Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 You can never set this up by not riding sections you need to make a note each time of how the bike feels when riding the same section. It took me a few rides out before I dialed in the perfect setup on my 2017 Factory 300. I like a very active back end so nice and bouncy, but still wanted it to damp enough on the way back up. Now I have loads of grip but enough rebound to kick over steps etc. Take some tools with you pick some ground that covers steps, climb, roots etc and keep going over the same section until you feel the bike is doing what you want it to do once you have the back dialed in then set the front forks to match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtct Posted November 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 At the end I have increased preload by five turns more than standard. Now bike feels much bouncy and the rear wheel hopping is easier. What is more I can now preload suspension more with legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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