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Beta Rev3 problems


Lightweight
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Hey folks,

Been wanting to get into trials for a while so bought a Rev3 270 but having problems getting it started. Thinking that it’s the stator but the pdf of the manual that I have is blurry and I can’t read the wiring diagram.

Want to test the stator before I remove it - does anyone have a picture of that bit of the diagram so I can put a voltage tester across it?

For that matter, do I undo the big nut or the little grub screws to get access to it?

Thanks folks

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm having a similar problem. The only manual I can find is all blurry. It also doesn't say how to test the stator like most manuals do. Your problem might not be the stator though. These things are kind of a pain in the ass to start. Someone on here told me to push it forward 3 or 4 times and quickly hit the brake so a bit of gas goes into the engine and then kick it really really hard. Someone else told me to lean it on it's side for a couple of seconds before starting it to get gas to go in the engine. You remove the 1 big nut, and you need a flywheel puller. I forget the size off the top of my head but I want to say it's a size 30. I couldn't undo those two phillips head screws, but they only hold the weight onto the flywheel anyway. You would still need to remove the main nut to get access to the stator. The problem I'm having is the previous owner got water under the stator cover, so all the contact points at the top of each winding got rusty. I had to clean it off. Now they are a little potmarked. It was still working fine, but once in a while I'd have to open it back up and clean those areas. Now I'm getting spark, but it still won't start, so I'm thinking the spark isn't strong enough or it's not consistent. If I were you I would just test how much spark you're getting at the plug and before the cdi to see if it's an actual electrical problem or just you getting used to kick starting it. Have you gotten it started at all? If you come across an unblurry wiring diagram please share it with me. Good luck.

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Things have moved on somewhat since I posted above!

I bought a copy of the owners manual (£30) but it didn't really help me so I decided that I'd pull the stator and have it tested properly. Bought a flywheel puller (£10) and sent it off - turns out the ignition bit of it was screwed so had that rewound (£97). When I got it back it still wasn't having any of it but, after consulting the manual, found that the spark plug was wrong - so I replaced that (£2.50).

Obviously, cleaned the carb, checked the reed valves and all that stuff..

After that, it fired up - but there was a nasty tapping sound in the top end!

Took the head and the barrel off and found that it was badly worn, can't have been much compression but I didn't have a basis for comparison so assumed that's just how they are? Helps explain the starting problem anyway.

Anyway, the barrel is now away for relining (£150ish) and I'm shopping for a piston....

My cheap bike is becoming less of a bargain by the day, but I reckon I'm still winning (just)

Edited by Lightweight
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/26/2019 at 4:04 AM, Lightweight said:

image.jpg

Hope this helps you Franklin

Thanks. Mine has about 125 compression. Someone told me that's low, so i started calling around for rings. It takes two rings at like 55 dollars a piece. Then i talked to an expert who said that sounds about normal. I don't know what yours is, but the piston and rings for this aren't cheap. I've read that the wrong kind of plug can cause a knocking sound. Maybe you should try with your other plug and see if it still does it.

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On 1/26/2019 at 9:02 AM, Lightweight said:

Anyway, the barrel is now away for relining (£150ish) and I'm shopping for a piston....

 

You're not going to get the optimum performance unless you have the barrel plated to suit the piston.  i'm surprised anyone has taken on the job of plating without having the piston also.

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On 6 February 2019 at 6:09 PM, 2stroke4stroke said:

You're not going to get the optimum performance unless you have the barrel plated to suit the piston.  i'm surprised anyone has taken on the job of plating without having the piston also.

I was a bit surprised too, but the chap doing  it has been building and racing 2 Strokes since I was in short trousers so I wasn't going to argue with him. Guess we'll see when I get it back?

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2 hours ago, Lightweight said:

I was a bit surprised too, but the chap doing  it has been building and racing 2 Strokes since I was in short trousers so I wasn't going to argue with him. Guess we'll see when I get it back?

Probably doesnt matter with racing 2 strokes as the clearence is so big. When new the clearence on a race bike is when we would get it replated on a trials bike. 

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  • 2 months later...
 

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