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Beta 80 medium wheel mods.


Lil' Willie's dad.
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Hello, few questions...

 Firstly, does anyone know where to get a front mudguard extension/flap from. So, to help stop mud flinging up into the frame and rad. I saw one on a bike Sunday but didn't get chance to ask where it came from. Scoured usual places online but can't find owt.

Secondly, do people silicone seal around the exhaust can end caps to stop it weeping black gunk or is it best to let it ooze out and clean it up? 

Lastly, does anyone know what weight oil comes as standard in the forks? I want to make them a bit more bouncy to help him pop the front up, he's always run his bikes like that but if it's already 5 weight in there I'll have to shop around for something lighter.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Hi it was my sons bike you saw at weekend. We use RAW mud flaps used on pushbikes, they fit well and can be found on eBay. We have tried sealing the exhaust but never really works so best to modify the tailpipe for easier removal of endcap and then repack silencer - really easy to do. Fork oil we use as is and seems to work well but we have changed rear shock to soften bike up and makes far more difference cheers Rob

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Thanks for replies.

HiRob, nice to have met you and your family Sunday. I was hoping you would read and reply. Your mud guard extension looked way better than the offerings elsewhere. 

 We like to run front ends softer than standard, was hoping to find out factory weight. Just going to put 5wt in and go from there if there's no other replies.

 Think I'm going to silicone the pipe, need to drill it at some point to repack it so try it then.

I'm assuming your running an ohlins on the rear?

What was your lass number in the trial? Was looking at results and couldn't remember.

 Thanks again, Paul.

 

 

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With regard Fork Oils - there is a very good website explaining lots of things to think about here: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid and further down the page http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid#Viscosity_Index

While it has been around a long time - the information is still relevant. I have then condensed that to commonly known or available names and oil weights (downunder in Australia at least - or known through trials sites). - see the attached PDF file that I have compiled.

It appears that just because it says 5W doesn't mean that the oil has the same viscosity and viscosity index (the stability of the viscosity with temperature change) as every other labelled 5W oil. I have been using Motul 2.5W fork oil in my 2015 Jotagas and people are amazed that I am using 2.5W but but but - it is still a heavier viscosity at 40°C than what Tech Forks recommend - OJ Racing Fork Oil Type 01 - which I can't easily find "downunder".

Given that Castrol 5W Fork oil is available easily at my local Supercheap motor shop, then I might just change to that - and cheaper than some others. Please note that while ATF has been mentioned as a possibility that ATF while being very well controlled in its viscosity ratings is a higher viscosity e.g 33 centistrokes (or mm/s2) at 40°C and about 7 at 100°C. 

Just note that I am not an expert at oils but have taken an interest what it all (oil) means and these are just my thoughts. For a Beta 80 I would be going to the lighter viscosity oils.

Fork Oil comparisons.pdf

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Great replies, thank you.

Peterh, I shall use that as reference going forward.

 Whilst up the garage preserving my marriage, I noticed that the steering lock could maybe better on the Beta. Has anyone removed or modified the stops? If so, was it detrimental or advantageous for youths with maybe not as much upper body strength to wrestle it round sections?

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Thought I'd share this after so many helpful replies. 

 Basically, if you are a new purchaser of a Beta80, you will find it near impossible to ride in the UK without modifying the front mudguard for extra clearance. I got a local fabricator to extend the standard mudguard mount. Cost me £50 but it's job done and looks nice.

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19 minutes ago, Lil' Willie's dad. said:

Great replies, thank you.

Peterh, I shall use that as reference going forward.

 Whilst up the garage preserving my marriage, I noticed that the steering lock could maybe better on the Beta. Has anyone removed or modified the stops? If so, was it detrimental or advantageous for youths with maybe not as much upper body strength to wrestle it round sections?

Apologies for derailing, but this was the main reason for my last question.

 Many thanks.

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Hi Paul I don’t believe the medium wheel rear shock will work on a big wheel 80 or 125. This maybe incorrect but when I purchased the Ohlins that is what I was advised. I used the shock on our older 50cc bike until the 2019 bike was delivered - both medium wheel but event these needed the shock to be inverted on the newer bike. Have to say is makes a big difference so when you sell the bike sell the shock separately to get your money back  - the difference being like your changes to the front of the bike the rear suspension is now perfectly set up for the weight of the rider and this gives far more grip plus looks cool as well Cheers Rob

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Hi lwd, got 2 of these 80s and never thought to seal the exhaust and it does make a right mess. I run 60ml oil to 5 l of fuel and this helps a bit but it's probably weaker than some would like.

The silencers get a heavy time as every time you drop them on the left they tend to bend so could be tricky to seal plus the amount of oil that seems to build up in them is bad enough.

They just run really cold unless you give them a roasting.

Looks like the standard shock will swap between bikes but not 100%.

Lock stops? these things will out turn anything the handlings spot on if you can use all the lock you'll be good enough to bounce it.

Weakest points are the spacers between the wheel bearings on the SW if you tighten the spindles the spacers mushroom and draw the bearings into the hubs causing major problems. Also the hubs are really soft.

Clutch hose is really exposed at the slave cyl we've snapped two and they're not cheap.

Great bike and I can't see any youngster needing any more bike.

Cheers.

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14 hours ago, breagh said:

Hi lwd, got 2 of these 80s and never thought to seal the exhaust and it does make a right mess. I run 60ml oil to 5 l of fuel and this helps a bit but it's probably weaker than some would like.

The silencers get a heavy time as every time you drop them on the left they tend to bend so could be tricky to seal plus the amount of oil that seems to build up in them is bad enough.

They just run really cold unless you give them a roasting.

Looks like the standard shock will swap between bikes but not 100%.

Lock stops? these things will out turn anything the handlings spot on if you can use all the lock you'll be good enough to bounce it.

Weakest points are the spacers between the wheel bearings on the SW if you tighten the spindles the spacers mushroom and draw the bearings into the hubs causing major problems. Also the hubs are really soft.

Clutch hose is really exposed at the slave cyl we've snapped two and they're not cheap.

Great bike and I can't see any youngster needing any more bike.

Cheers.

Thanks for your reply. I've been running 70ml per gallon and it smokes quite heavily. I'm going to run at 50ml per gallon which is not too lean according to other manufacturers recommendations. 

 We used to run 50ml ok we G in our chainsaws and they revved like fook all day long.

 Great advice on the soft hubs and bearings??that kind of stuff really makes a difference ownership wise.

I've now ordered a clutch and water pump cover by Apico. 

Back to the Ohlins question, can anyone else cast any light on interchangeability?

 I don't wish to doubt any previous advice, but I'm hearing different things on the vine...

 

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