stu109 Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 I changed the oil today on my Evo 300 4T. A small piece of metal was attached to the drain plug. Bike starts and runs fine. Anyone any ideas where it might have broken off from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Kick start gear ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Certainly looks like a tooth from a gear, best to have a look. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjw123 Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 YOU started it up after having that lot come out of the sump !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu109 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Its just one piece, about 5mm long, photographed from a number of different angles. I haven't started it since finding the object but I suspect its been there for some time. Started bike to heat up the oil prior to change and everything seemed fine. Have sent the bit to Beta UK to see want they think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markws80 Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 What ever it is I would have the motor apart to find out where it came from before running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misscrabstick Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 As a minimum you need the left side cover off to investigate the gears in there, I have a feeling that's a drive dog and tooth from one of the gears and that is a case split, (nothing to be scared of). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Certainly looks like a tooth to me and I agree that looks like a gear dog to me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu109 Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Had the clutch out this morning to check the kick start etc. on that side. Pleased (or it it disappointed) to report that everything is in fine order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markws80 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 2 hours ago, stu109 said: Had the clutch out this morning to check the kick start etc. on that side. Pleased (or it it disappointed) to report that everything is in fine order. Keep looking as it came from somewhere if one bit ( tooth ) came off others could follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu109 Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 About to start the task of removing the engine and splitting the cases to get to the gearbox components. As it is a four stroke this seems a bit more daunting that splitting the cases on a 2 stroke, so any general advice would be welcomed. I have the excellent engine manual so if I follow that everything should go fine. So specific questions for those of you who have worked on the 4T: Can I leave the water pump in-situ in the barrel? Can I leave the oil pump in the case? Can I leave the kick start idler gear in place on its shaft? The manual suggests a special tool to split the cases is this necessary, or will them come apart with some gentle tapping? What is the best way to hold the crank still to remove the flywheel nut and the primary drive gear? Any other help much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arbutus Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I have just put my bottom end back together after installing a heli-coil in the crankcase for the crankshaft locating bolt. (2009 4t) 1 No, the W/P shaft has to come apart to allow the cam chain to drop down for head removal. 2 No, a shaft passes from one side of the engine to the other linking the oil pumps together, it must be decoupled before splitting the cases. 3 Yes, I only had to remove the kickstart lever. 4 I used a home made puller, that copied the factory part, to split the cases, it worked perfectly. No damage to any parts. 5 The crankshaft locating bolt properly seated in the crank's slot does the job. This whole job resulted from a repair 5 years ago to the W/P seals and shaft. I used the crank locking bolt to hold the crank, and hence the W/P gear fixed while the W/P shaft was unscrewed. Trouble started when I re-torqued the crank locating bolt to factory spec with the copper washer. The initial hole for the bolt is larger than the screw threads used, and the washer deformed to a dome shape, allowing the bolt to contact the crank. It would not turn over with the kickstart. I knew right away what the trouble was, but as I had already buggered the copper washer, I made a new one out of sheet aluminium. My mistake was using too thick a sheet, thus not engaging enough threads, They eventually stripped out. My advise is to torque the bolt to less than the factory spec, tight enough to seal, but not deform the copper washer. Secondly, use an 8mm bolt with 15mm of thread in place of the bullet nosed locating bolt, keep it in your toolbox. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu109 Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 Thanks for the info. I have the rockers off now and can see the WP drive and how it will block removal of the barrel. I did contemplate removing the cam chain drive cog and lifting off the barrel with the chain still in place, but think I will now take out the WP shaft and replace the seals whilst it is all in bits. Did you remove the primary drive cog from the crank? Does it need a puller to get it off the shaft? I spoke to my local Beta dealer and they thought the cases would split without a puller, but I'll see how it goes and if not, like you, I will fabricate some sort of splitter. Will keep you posted on progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arbutus Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) Yes, I removed the primary drive gear, mine came off easily by hand. I followed the service manual in every step, except I didn't need to disassemble the kickstart gears. The crankshaft is an interference fit into it's rolling element bearings, therefore the recommended use of the puller. On the advice of a Heavy Duty Mechanic friend, for reassembly, I heated the inner race of the crank bearings to 100 C with an electric heat gun, checking the temperature with a Fluke meter equipped with a small thermocouple. An infra-red radiation pyrometer (thermometer) also does a great job. You should not need to remove the crank from the right side case to inspect/ service the transmission. I don't recognize the broken gear bits in your photos, sorry I can't be of any help in that regard. Stu, I sent you a personal message regarding the puller. Cheers, Greg. Edited January 19, 2019 by arbutus Added text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu109 Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Have it all apart now except for the flywheel for which, inevitably, I needed to buy yet another puller. In anticipation of splitting the cases and identifying the damaged gear box components I am thinking what else I might replace whilst its in bits. So far the only worn items I have identified are the water pump shaft (which is scored where it runs against the seals), and the water pump seals. What else do folks think I should replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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