Caferacerman Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I am new to the Trials world and bought a "like new" Rev 3 and with the help of this forum, I have been working my way through a number of issues stemming from a "like new" bike. Went to change the tires this weekend and believe I have discovered the reason as to why the front went flat and when I pulled the rear off, the valve stem gave way to a cup of green slime draining out. Referencing the attached photo, I would appreciate thoughts on the best way forward, such as: Is it worth trying to save and rebuild the rims? If I get new wheels, should I go with the Morads or is there a better alternative? New hubs or try to leverage existing hubs/ Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faussy Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) Whats exactly wrong with the rims? They just look dirty to me Edited March 4, 2019 by faussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Agree with above. If it were me, I'd clean/rebuild the old wheels. But then, being retired, my time is worth nothing. Lacing/truing wheels is not for the impatient. To be truly worthy of the moniker Caferacerman, it seems a necessary skill, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caferacerman Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 6 minutes ago, faussy said: Whats exactly wrong with the rims? They just look dirty to me When cleaning the front rim, it appears the "dirt" is aluminum flaking from the wheel - something I have not encountered in the past. Any insight as to the best way to clean it up would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Dirt bike rims get dirty inside. Glass bead blasting is fairly extreme, but would likely solve the problem. I've used a bench-mounted wire wheel on corroded rims. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisCH Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 The goo looks like Stan's to me or something similar. If you can clean if off thoroughly and get the tyre bead to seat the wheel should be usable. I have had a long "battle" with my mountainbike as the rims are not really tubeless and the latex has to fill the holes before it all works OK. The theory is the same, an airtight tape to cover the nipple recesses and make an airtight rim. Your rim looks as if it has been done by someone looking for a quick fix. You would need to check the bead seating area thoroughly to decide if it is going to hold air or not, the photo is not detailed enough for that. If the ali is actually degrading then the rim is junk. I rebuild MTB wheels but a motorcycle wheel is a different animal. Would an Evo wheel fit it? I think they are more "tubeless". Or get a secondhand Rev wheel. The wheels on mine are in good order (it is an '05). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Caferacerman said: I am new to the Trials world... Front wheel should have a tube. Rear wheel is likely tubeless. Because trials tires use very low pressures (maybe 4 - 6 psi), checking tire pressure before each ride is necessary. Many inexpensive pressure gauges won't read accurately at low pressures. Experienced riders check pressure by feeling the deformation of the tires with their hands. P.S. Check the wheel bearings. Edited March 4, 2019 by konrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caferacerman Posted March 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Appreciating that I am new to the Trials world and at the risk of potentially creating a cardinal sin by posing the following question, is there a reason as to why it would be a bad idea to leverage the hubs to build a set of traditional set of tube wheels and leverage the Nuetech Tubeless system to get access to the low PSI? I do not intend to compete and for my purposes (improving my Hare Scramble/Enduro abilities) it sounds as though I may be setting myself up for frustration via chasing errant leaks with a set of twelve-old-year old used and abused wheels? Thanks for everyone's attention - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 I'm fairly new to trials myself (6 years), but why not just use standard tubes on both wheels? I think there are rear trials tires specifically made for use with a tube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 They don't look to bad to me, just clean up the front with a wire brush. As you said your not intending on competing, why not put a tube in the back ? You will have to drill the rim and fit a rim lock to stop the valve getting ripped out. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisCH Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 40 minutes ago, Caferacerman said: Appreciating that I am new to the Trials world and at the risk of potentially creating a cardinal sin by posing the following question, is there a reason as to why it would be a bad idea to leverage the hubs to build a set of traditional set of tube wheels and leverage the Nuetech Tubeless system to get access to the low PSI? No sin, but surely this is not cost effective? You are taking a tubeless system, rebuilding it to a tubed system then adding an aftermarket tubeless conversion system. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faussy Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) The rear rim looks in good nick to me, although for that style and age of rim, getting the rim tape to seal for a tubeless tyre could be a pain (they weren't the most reliable even when new). Id go as above, down the tubed route, performance wise you won't lack anything over a tubeless tyre, exactly the same compound and you can run the same pressure. Hard to say regarding the front without seeing it in person, although it does look corroded. Your spokes and nipples all look in good condition, would be a shame not to keep these at least Edited March 4, 2019 by faussy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisCH Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) https://www.trialsbikebreakersuk.com/collections/beta-parts/products/2000-beta-rev3-rear-wheel-with-tyre-disc-and-sprocket Might fit? Earlier model. Worth a look. Likewise https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264139638481 Edited March 4, 2019 by ChrisCH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall1 Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 just removed the front tyre on a 2014 evo, it was tubed, as it should be but there was corrosion - much the same as yours, if not worse in a few places. We used an air file (gently!) then a wire wheel to clean out as much of the corrosion as possible then put two coats of enamel on. Older bikes we have had have been worse still on both front and rear but they still lasted fine once cleaned up and kept true. Unless your coming off 6 foot drops or anything like that I doubt you'd have any issues. I'd use the funds to keep the bike running...if the wheels fail in the future then id sort it out then ... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markparrish Posted March 4, 2019 Report Share Posted March 4, 2019 Put some tape over the spokes and fit new tube to front. I've given up the fight with my similar rear wheel - just fitted tube with new tyre (tubeless tyre) - no clamp - seems to be seated really well (after quite a battle to avoid nipping the tube when fitting tyre) and hasn't rotated on rim yet!. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.