crashpotato Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 So. There is a Problem with my "new" gasser. The clutch won't properly, if at all, disengage. Even when warm. If I pull the clutch in and open the throttle I feel a little bit of slipping but it still almost accelerates as if the clutch was out. I changed the oil recently to some (inexpensive) 10w30 mineral engine oil but there was no change. The adjustment screw on the lever is adjusted to the max but it just won't disengage. Would be very glad if somebody was able to help me with that. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki250 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 (edited) If its hydraulic make sure there isn’t air in the system or a bad cylinder Could be a heavily worn clutch basket or swollen clutch plates. Best bet is to strip it down and have a look what’s happening inside You would probably be better using ATF fluid not 10w30 Edited March 19, 2019 by suzuki250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashpotato Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Okay thank you. I'll have a look at the basket soon. How can I tell if they are swollen? Is that very obvious or are there some measurements to check? I'll bleed the hydraulics one more time but did that very recently. I'll have a look at some atf. I'm just unsure whether it's OK because I heard some people not recommending it for the pre pro models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Make sure there is some slack at the leavers otherwise it will never work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashpotato Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 21 minutes ago, b40rt said: Make sure there is some slack at the leavers otherwise it will never work properly. But shouldn't it slip all the time if there wasn't? Or can this cause drag too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki250 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 4 hours ago, crashpotato said: I'll have a look at some atf. I'm just unsure whether it's OK because I heard some people not recommending it for the pre pro models. Might be worth checking out? I've always used ATF 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashpotato Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 46 minutes ago, suzuki250 said: Might be worth checking out? I've always used ATF Okay I'll try to get my hands on some. Will take a look at the clutch plates and change the oil while at it. Hope that helps and I won't need new plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 3 hours ago, crashpotato said: But shouldn't it slip all the time if there wasn't? Or can this cause drag too? The slack at the lever allows the piston in the master cylinder to pass the ports, this gets fluid into the system. When next you pull the clutch the clutch plates open further reducing the drag. This may not be the problem but worth checking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 If you just bought this'99 then it is well worth looking at the plates. Most of the original plates, the friction material becones seperated from the steel. New plates may be needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thall1 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 if you find they are swollen then you can try lapping them down on using 320 or 400 grit wet and dry (dry) on a flat surface. They may well swell again but you can always lap them back down again. I've lapped the same clutch plates a few times over the few years we had a GasGas pro. On later TXT Pro's I think the pack width was 9.75 mm (I think...?) I'm sure someone else can confirm the dimension....if you do lap them down to size and there is still an issue then at least you know its not the clutch plates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashpotato Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 46 minutes ago, thall1 said: if you find they are swollen then you can try lapping them down on using 320 or 400 grit wet and dry (dry) on a flat surface. They may well swell again but you can always lap them back down again. I've lapped the same clutch plates a few times over the few years we had a GasGas pro. On later TXT Pro's I think the pack width was 9.75 mm (I think...?) I'm sure someone else can confirm the dimension....if you do lap them down to size and there is still an issue then at least you know its not the clutch plates. Thank you. I was not sure if it's okay for the plates to grind them down a bit. Will definitely try that if they are swollen up ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashpotato Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 23 hours ago, lineaway said: If you just bought this'99 then it is well worth looking at the plates. Most of the original plates, the friction material becones seperated from the steel. New plates may be needed. Sadly you were right. None of the plates were in a kind of acceptable condition. Going to get some new plates then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creepytheclutchmaster Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Iv had to sand friction plates down in the past, it was on a shrco 290,it had bad drag, used p800 paper with oil on a flat surface in a figure of 8 motion, it sorted the problem, don't go to mad a minute or so of sanding on each plate side worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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