bondy Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Hello can any 1 Help I have a Ty 175 that ive just restored the Engine as had new piston the rest was ok ive started it up runs fine but when I put it into gear it jumped forward and stalled so am assuming its the clutch. it was fine before but its been stood for a long time could it be the clutch plates stuck together may need a clean? the only thing I did was to take the clutch Arm out to clean and put it back the grub screw that screws into the clutch Arm could this have anything to do with the clutch nor working? any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misscrabstick Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Might just be stuck up with non use and thick oil, put it in top gear by rocking back and forwards and pulling the lever up through the gears then try rocking it back and forth with the clutch pulled in ( engine off btw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbofurball Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 (edited) Yamaha sticky clutch syndrome - this is normal. With the engine running and a bit of space, roll the bike forwards and pop it in second at the same time. Ride it around for a minute or two with the clutch lever pulled in all the time, play with the throttle and it'll free up without any drama. EDIT: forgot to mention, mine would stick if I left it for as little as week. I switched to Dexron 3 auto fluid, and after a month drained and re-filled it, and it doesn't get sticky any more. Edited April 3, 2019 by turbofurball 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted April 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Cheers guys I'll give that a go and let you thanks again ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bondy Posted April 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Just 1 more thing guys could you tell me what the clutch Arm Grub screw is fare is it just to hold the Arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted April 4, 2019 Report Share Posted April 4, 2019 That screw has an offset pin on the end so you can adjust the angle of the clutch arm to offset for wear in the plates and mechanism. The offset pin lifts or lowers the clutch camshaft and the cam face is slanted to provide the adjustment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seven Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 On 4/3/2019 at 8:35 PM, turbofurball said: Yamaha sticky clutch syndrome - this is normal. With the engine running and a bit of space, roll the bike forwards and pop it in second at the same time. Ride it around for a minute or two with the clutch lever pulled in all the time, play with the throttle and it'll free up without any drama. EDIT: forgot to mention, mine would stick if I left it for as little as week. I switched to Dexron 3 auto fluid, and after a month drained and re-filled it, and it doesn't get sticky any more. Hello, I hope you dont mind my first post being in response to an older thread. I am very new to this site and also to trials in general. I have recently purchased a 76 TY175 as what I hope is the ideal beginner bike to learn on and also for childhood nostagia reasons (I still have my old 1981 YZ50 that I learnt to ride on tucked under a bench in my garage). I recently experienced what I assume is this sticky clutch syndrome after not riding the bike for a week (I started the bike up but when putting it into 1st with the clutch pulled in it jumped forward and stalled as if the clutch wasnt engaged). My question is twofold; Firstly can I ask what gearbox oil people normally use (for when I look to change the oli)? My Haynes manual suggest SAE 10W/30 but I have seen other weights quoted elsewhere. Secondly I also read what you said about Dexron 3 auto fluid Turbofurball and wanted to know a bit more about potentially trying this. I am UK based but can I check is this automatic transmission oil and when you said you drained and refilled the gearbox after a week did you use the Dexron 3 again (and run the bike with it in) or was that just to clean/release the clutch plates and you switched back to a regular oil after the week? Has that contnued to help? Thank you very much for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 I use now one oil to fit all my bikes and that is ELF HTX 740 works very well for gearbox and clutch. Before I have used Putoline SP GEAR OIL and standard gear oil too with good effect. But the ELF oil provides best clutch action in my personal experience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seven Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 11 hours ago, pschrauber said: I use now one oil to fit all my bikes and that is ELF HTX 740 works very well for gearbox and clutch. Before I have used Putoline SP GEAR OIL and standard gear oil too with good effect. But the ELF oil provides best clutch action in my personal experience. Thank you very much for your recommendation pschrauber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbofurball Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 On 2/1/2022 at 6:06 PM, Seven said: Hello, I hope you dont mind my first post being in response to an older thread. I am very new to this site and also to trials in general. I have recently purchased a 76 TY175 as what I hope is the ideal beginner bike to learn on and also for childhood nostagia reasons (I still have my old 1981 YZ50 that I learnt to ride on tucked under a bench in my garage). I recently experienced what I assume is this sticky clutch syndrome after not riding the bike for a week (I started the bike up but when putting it into 1st with the clutch pulled in it jumped forward and stalled as if the clutch wasnt engaged). My question is twofold; Firstly can I ask what gearbox oil people normally use (for when I look to change the oli)? My Haynes manual suggest SAE 10W/30 but I have seen other weights quoted elsewhere. Secondly I also read what you said about Dexron 3 auto fluid Turbofurball and wanted to know a bit more about potentially trying this. I am UK based but can I check is this automatic transmission oil and when you said you drained and refilled the gearbox after a week did you use the Dexron 3 again (and run the bike with it in) or was that just to clean/release the clutch plates and you switched back to a regular oil after the week? Has that contnued to help? Thank you very much for your advice. Sorry for the slow response, yes it's auto transmission fluid but a specific type (costs a bit more, but far cheaper than fancy gearbox oil that's been kissed by virgins and filtered in a mountain stream). I changed it for more of the same ATF, the first filling was good at washing out all the old oil 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seven Posted February 4, 2022 Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 22 hours ago, turbofurball said: Sorry for the slow response, yes it's auto transmission fluid but a specific type (costs a bit more, but far cheaper than fancy gearbox oil that's been kissed by virgins and filtered in a mountain stream). I changed it for more of the same ATF, the first filling was good at washing out all the old oil Thats great thank you very much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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