Viper808 Posted May 26, 2019 Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) Desperately seeking help to getting my 2013 Explorer 280i back up and running. BACKGROUND- while riding and slowly accelerating in 3rd gear bike abruptly losses power and stalls. Checked for spark- ok. Changed spark plug. Stlll no start. Disconnected fuel line and checked fuel flow-ok. So I know I had fuel and fuel pump pressure. So I had to get the bike towed out of the trail. CURRENT DIAGNOSIS- IGNITION- Strong spark visible. If I squirt some fuel into cylinder chamber and reinstall the spark plug, it fires up and runs strong until the fuel burns off so Im assuming the entire ignition circuit is working properly. FUEL PUMP- Pressure is 50 PSI static. I have a 11.1v LiPO easy start setup so I can energize the fuel pump so I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge. 50 PSI. I think fuel pump and associated wiring is okay. FUEL INJECTOR- I removed the fuel injector and reconnected it outside of the engine. Reconnected the fuel line and electrical connector. Energized the bike’s electrical circuit w LiPo setup, kicked engine over and no fuel spray from the fuel injector. So I have ordered and replaced the fuel injector, still no fuel spray. WIRING- Cleaned and reconnected every possible electrical connection on the bike. Still no start. ECU- Only thing I can’t test. Is this where the fuel injector gets its signals from? Can just the fuel injector signal go bad? Is a replacement available anywhere? Or could a faulty TPS or one of the other sensors cause this condition? I’m desperate! So thanks in advance for any feedback to my problem! Thanks! Edited May 26, 2019 by Viper808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted May 26, 2019 Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Viper808 said: 1. ECU- Only thing I can’t test. Is this where the fuel injector gets its signals from? 2. Can just the fuel injector signal go bad? 3. Is a replacement available anywhere? 4. Or could a faulty TPS or one of the other sensors cause this condition? Good diagnosis so far! 1. Yes. 2. Possible, but highly unlikely. 3. Likely nearly impossible to find. Plus it would have to be programmed for your bike. 4. Yes. 1000x more likely than just the injector signal out of the ECU going bad. Have you read my Notebook? https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69622-efi-ossa-notebook-formerly-tr280i-wiring-diagram-annotated-in-english/ Lots of relevant information there. The industry standard is to provide a "limp home mode" in which the vehicle runs (but very poorly) if one of the sensor inputs is bad. But I don't know if that is true of the OSSA. The ECU provides a ground to one side of the fuel injector when it is supposed to inject fuel (the other side of the injector is connected to +12VDC constantly). Remove the injector from the engine. Disconnect the injector from the bike's wiring and provide 12 VDC to it intermittently. (The injector is not polarity sensitive.) It should squirt fuel as long as there is fuel pressure. EDIT, I see you've already effectively done this test. At this point I would make sure the TPS is working properly. Edited May 26, 2019 by konrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted May 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Unfortunately I don’t have neither the cable nor software. I’ll attempt to electrically test each sensor per konrad’s notes. Thanks! Edited May 29, 2019 by Viper808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted May 27, 2019 Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 Have a look for a break in one of the signal wires going to the injector from the ECU, check each wire for continuity from the female connector block at the ECU, back to the injector. Check for any corrosion on the ECU terminal pins, if there is any, do not scrape this off with a screwdriver as the terminals have a thin gold plate, use a good contact cleaner like Wurth type OL, this works well. Konrad mentioned a "limp mode" there is this type of function in the Ossa ECU should the coolant temp sensor fail, then the fueling runs rich so the motor will not tend to lock up. I think the fan is continuously energised also. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted May 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2019 Thanks for the advice. I’ll check continuity between connectors. Will let you know! If I can’t get this fixed, might end up putting down a deposit for the Sherco X-Ride after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted June 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 Found it! After careful inspection again. I discovered a pin on the ECU corroded and broke off. I didn’t see it earlier because it had broken off flush so it was not visible. The pin was stuck in the connector. It is broken flush so I don’t think I can repair it. Now the million dollar question. Where can I get a replacement ECU? I’ve googled w no luck. If anyone has a line on one or have one willing to sell, please let me know. Hope I can find one. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 Good fault finding skills Viper. Spare ECU's are hard to come by. I would try to make a repair, would not be pretty but it would work. Using a Dremel type mini die grinder, with a fine tip router bit, work away at the plastic/potting around the broken pin to reveal more of the pin, very carefully tin the pin (don't leave the heat on too long). Drill a small access hole to the right of the broken pin in your photo for a small diameter insulated wire, tin the end of the wire, feed through the hole and very carefully solder it to the pin. Solder another wire to the cable going to the socket (female connector) that lines up with the broken pin, then connect these two wires using an in-line connector so you can still connect and disconnect the ECU plug. If you like, I can pop over and do it for you, if you pay the air fare! Bye, Peter B. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted June 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 10 minutes ago, peterb said: Good fault finding skills Viper. Spare ECU's are hard to come by. I would try to make a repair, would not be pretty but it would work. Using a Dremel type mini die grinder, with a fine tip router bit, work away at the plastic/potting around the broken pin to reveal more of the pin, very carefully tin the pin (don't leave the heat on too long). Drill a small access hole to the right of the broken pin in your photo for a small diameter insulated wire, tin the end of the wire, feed through the hole and very carefully solder it to the pin. Solder another wire to the cable going to the socket (female connector) that lines up with the broken pin, then connect these two wires using an in-line connector so you can still connect and disconnect the ECU plug. If you like, I can pop over and do it for you, if you pay the air fare! Bye, Peter B. Peter thank you! That is brilliant! I’ve been thinking how I could sleeve and resolder the pin back on. But the wire idea is easier and certainly more dependable. I’ll give it a shot. Actually I’ll have my jeweler give it a shot. Any tips on the method or type of solder to use? If he can’t do it I’ll find out your availability for a trip here to Hawaii! Will let you know how it works out! Thanks ks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted June 3, 2019 Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 (edited) I'm feeling a bit sheepish now for having said the signal out of the ECU was unlikely to go bad (I was thinking of just the internal circuitry -- had not considered a broken pin). It's impossible to tell from the photo, but is that pin 17 or 18? (numbers are on the back of the mating convector). Pin 18 is for the injector, but pin 17 is switched 12VDC out of the ECU (which you may be able to work around). An obsolete electronics solder that contains lead would by my choice with a rosin-core flux (if it comes to that). P.S. If you destroy the ECU, don't throw it away. I've been wanting to get my hands on a dead one! Edited June 3, 2019 by konrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted June 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2019 (edited) Korad, thank you again. Performing all those checks you suggested ultimately lead to me discovering the fault. It ts pin 18 which is at the very end of the row. It should be easy to access through a hole drilled through the side. I’ll let my jeweler know about the lead solder. If he doesn’t have any I might look around to pick some up for him Edited June 3, 2019 by Viper808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 I'm feeling a bit sheepish now for having said the signal out of the ECU was unlikely to go bad (I was thinking of just the internal circuitry -- had not considered a broken pin). Hi Konrad, baaaaaa ?????? (Strange Yorkshire humour) Hi Viper, the old standard solder for PCB (printed circuit board) work is 60/40 tin and lead which should have a rosin core, the rosin acts as a flux to keep the joint clean. As lead is toxic the later solder wire replaced the lead with copper and other alloying agents. The 60/40 solder is known as soft solder as it melts at a reasonably low temperature, around 232C. I should bring some with me as your jeweller has mysteriously vanished! Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) Seeing that corroded pin is really discouraging. The JAE connector used on the ECU is the sealed type. Is that connector's blue sealing gasket still present? Maybe Hawaii's environment (sea air) has something to do with it the failure? Prior to buying the OSSA, I weighed heavily the fact that most of its electronics were designed/manufactured in Japan (a huge plus in my opinion). P.S. I'm now wondering if the pin snapped off, and then corroded? Edited June 5, 2019 by konrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 Konrad now that you mentioned it I realized the rubber seal is missing. Pretty sure it has been corroding for a while and then eventually broke causing the no run condition. So update on the fix. Took it to my jeweler with the plan to grind around the pin stub and solder a wire to it. Instead he said he can remove the assembly from the casing and replace the broken pin all together. So I got it back new pin perfectly positioned. He said he used a paper clip ground down flat to match the shape of the pins. It was looking like new all resealed using jewelers epoxy. Excitedly got home and installed it. No start. I couldn’t even energize my fuel pump w my lipo easy start system. I think it must gotten fried with too much heat. I asked him to use 60/40 tin/lead and use as little heat as possible. Not sure if it’s worth opening it up again to see if a connection got broken as it was being reassembled. Oh well it was worth a try and a valiant effort! I might have found an ECU at Lewissport. Adrian is checking to see if he still has it. Will let you know outcome. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 You have to buy the entire connector, but here is a place to get the sealing gasket. http://www.cycleterminal.com/jae-mx23a.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viper808 Posted August 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2019 (edited) Got a replacement ECU. Bike is running again! Found it here: https://www.molinarigroup.it/ out of Italy. Had to use Google translate to navigate the website! They had a brand new ECU as well as some "hard to find" side plastics and rear fender! Edited August 4, 2019 by Viper808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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