evo 2010 clutch bleeding problem

[FBRT95]

hello together, 

 

somehow i lost my old accounts data, so i had to make a new one (time goes by haha)

i´ve got a slight Problem with bleeding the Clutch of my 300 2010 evo factory. 

i just don´t get it bleeded. 

whenever i want to press the fluid out Nothing arrives at the Bottom (all screws/stops are "lose").

even if i try to pump new fluid through from the Bottom to the top with a pump i don´t have a Transit..

so the usual procedure as used on Brakes can´t be applied. 

are there any tricks to get it going?

thanks a lot. 

Dani

 

 

[lineaway]

I would take the m/c off the line. Bleed it, and re attach. If the master is any good it will self bleed from. there.

Edited October 17, 2019 by lineaway

[FBRT95]

good idea, Thanks.

 

[CptStarck]

Indeed normally you should bleed manually to start, and the mastercilinder should bleed itself while using.

However, you should check you have no residual tension in the clutch lever, this could push in the master piston in just enough to prevent correct exit of air. So set enough freeplay on the lever while bleeding.

On my Beta 250 2010 there was a default on the clutch mastercilinder, which made it impossible too bleed correctly. Fluid was unable to flow back when pressure was released, so impossible to bleed, even when pushing with a siringue. And pressure buidling up in the clutchline with hot engine, resulting in clutch slipping. Had to change the mastercilinder.

[FBRT95]

the Clutch worked fine until i´ve decided to Change the fluid

 

i have also tried bleeding by dismounting the Lever and only using the pin to push in and out, with the same results….

 

[mcman56]

I find pulling with vacuum from the bleeder nipple to be the most effective.  When changing fluid you can just keep it always full so there is no air to bleed.  I also use the push with syringe method and the pump and release method.  Sometimes I think the different methods help get bubbles out of different places when it does not go well.

Still, bleeding hydraulics on a trials bike, particularly starting with a dry rear caliper, can be a very frustrating job.  In addition to methods and techniques, I often feel that there is some sort of higher power that requires a certain level of emotional suffering from the mechanic before allowing those last few bubbles to exit.     

[FBRT95]

On 10/19/2019 at 4:38 PM, mcman56 said:

I find pulling with vacuum from the bleeder nipple to be the most effective.  When changing fluid you can just keep it always full so there is no air to bleed.  I also use the push with syringe method and the pump and release method.  Sometimes I think the different methods help get bubbles out of different places when it does not go well.

Still, bleeding hydraulics on a trials bike, particularly starting with a dry rear caliper, can be a very frustrating job.  In addition to methods and techniques, I often feel that there is some sort of higher power that requires a certain level of emotional suffering from the mechanic before allowing those last few bubbles to exit.     

tried it also with a vaccuum pump, didn´t work either, no fluid came down to the Bottom bleed screw. 

 

you Name it, but by now i sure as hell have suffered enough for my taste

 

[thall1]

You could try taking the master cylinder piston out and pushing fluid back up the line from the bleed nipple then you’ll know you’ve got fluid in the line.. check that the two holes in the base of the reservoir are clear first. Re fit the cylinder piston  with the correct free play (minimum free play possible) and fill the reservoir. As you should now have fluid up to the master cylinder with no or little air in the line just tie the lever back to bars and leave for a few days to  bleed itself with the reservoir cap off.  If you can tie the clutch line down so it doesn’t loop higher than the reservoir that’ll stop any air getting trapped at a high point.

ive always found tying back the levers or rear brake pedal usually seems to get the last bit of air out after normal bleeding either by pushing or pulling fluid. (Rear brakes are still a pain even doing this)
 

if it still doesn’t work fit a new master cylinder piston and clutch actuator piston seal and try again... I have found in the past that once an old system has been played with it never works again..! 

good luck

 

[b40rt]

12 hours ago, thall1 said:

 line just tie the lever back to bars and leave for a few days to  bleed itself with the reservoir cap off. 

 

 

Is modern brake / clutch fluid not hygroscopic ?

[thall1]

Yes I believe it is but I’ve never had issues leaving a few days ...