Rup Posted November 17, 2019 Report Share Posted November 17, 2019 Hi guys, Thanks for your help in advance. Our Oset 20R has been running strong but all of a sudden weak power to rear wheel. I’ve read all forum topics and similar symptoms point to a faulty throttle. This happened last year and a new throttle solved the problem. So this time I bought another throttle and I’ve installed a brand new throttle and doesn’t help. I’ve run all diagnostic tests from the Oset you tube troubleshooting vids (I think there were 12 videos approximately). Everything passes the test with ohms meter. Batteries all strong, relay clicking, fuse seems to look good and work, etc. Oset powers on, all 3 throttle lights light up, I hear relay click under seat, when I twist throttle the bike lurches forward a few inches then stops. It doesn’t want to move any further. Even with bike on a stand same thing, wheel moves a bit but that’s it. Theres no brake drag of any sort so not the brakes. Ive read some posts about testing the various parts ‘under a load’ what does this mean? Do I twist the throttle full, then check all the various parts? If it’s not the throttle, then what could it be? We do ride in the snow sometimes but it’s always been fine. Also, his main battery cable sparked several rides ago because it came loose but seemed to work fine for several rides afterwords so don’t this this causes the issue. Thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timdog Posted November 17, 2019 Report Share Posted November 17, 2019 Afraid same happened to ours and it was the motor itself. These can be rebuilt if you have the knowledge.(or replace it as I didn’t ) Try running motor direct from battery to test it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rup Posted November 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2019 Thanks timdog. I just checked the motor by running the battery cables directly to the motor, on a stand. Yes the motor works fine. It lit up full power. Real wheel spun around very fast. ...so if it’s not the motor, then it’s the controller? well, I just repeated the diagnostics steps for the power going into the controller; then did the test for power coming out of controller. Both passed the test using my meter. Could it still be the controller? I don’t see any loose wires or connections. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtrialer Posted November 18, 2019 Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 Could the battery cables be corroded inside and limiting the power so the controller thinks the battery is low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rup Posted November 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 Thanks cascadeimp and oldtrialer! i will double check the batteries and the cables. Some of the attachments to the batteries are a little loose, but batteries show a sting charge (over 53 when together, and around 12.6 individually). Thanks cascadeimp It’s sounding more and more like the controller. I’ll swap in a new wiring harness first, just thought I’d try this cheaper part before I buy the controller. I noticed some serious heat coming from under the ‘black shrink wrapped white rectangular connector’ (ceramic I think)... the piece with the black and red wires that connect into it, then runs down and across to the relay. I’m not certain this was a problem and maybe they are supposed to heat up. But when I was checking for loose connections I noticed the black wire was a bit loose. When I pulled on it, it broke away, so I opened up the shrink rap and reconnected it for now with electrical tape. When disconnected the relay would not ‘click’. But now it’s together and the relay clicks again - but still original symptoms, no power to rear wheel. The new relay Is on order and Will have it in a few weeks and update everyone. If that doesn’t work, suppose I’ll have to order a controller. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggie100 Posted February 11, 2022 Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 On 11/18/2019 at 11:35 PM, Rup said: Thanks cascadeimp and oldtrialer! i will double check the batteries and the cables. Some of the attachments to the batteries are a little loose, but batteries show a sting charge (over 53 when together, and around 12.6 individually). Thanks cascadeimp It’s sounding more and more like the controller. I’ll swap in a new wiring harness first, just thought I’d try this cheaper part before I buy the controller. I noticed some serious heat coming from under the ‘black shrink wrapped white rectangular connector’ (ceramic I think)... the piece with the black and red wires that connect into it, then runs down and across to the relay. I’m not certain this was a problem and maybe they are supposed to heat up. But when I was checking for loose connections I noticed the black wire was a bit loose. When I pulled on it, it broke away, so I opened up the shrink rap and reconnected it for now with electrical tape. When disconnected the relay would not ‘click’. But now it’s together and the relay clicks again - but still original symptoms, no power to rear wheel. The new relay Is on order and Will have it in a few weeks and update everyone. If that doesn’t work, suppose I’ll have to order a controller. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggie100 Posted February 11, 2022 Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 Hi Rup i seem to be having the same problem and faults you describe just wondering if you’ve got to the bottom of it before I start buying parts and it starts getting expensive? 😫 Thanks Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.