Rear wheel bearings

[scratcher]

Hi guys can anyone tell me or link me to rear wheel bearing for my evo 300 4t 2014. Or a part number of the bearing...n is the front one different or same size...

 

Is their only one bearing on each side if the wheel or is there inner n outer bearings. ?

Also is it only the 4t evo bearing that will do it example, will the 250 do the 300. N is 2t the same as 4t, n does it need to be exactly for the 2014..would other years still be the same..

Thanks guys.

Edited December 7, 2019 by scratcher
Adding more questions

[Bm1200]

I have a 2012 300 4t which uses a pair of 6004 2RS in the rear 42mm dia. and a pair of the smaller 6904 2RS in the front 37mm dia, some apparently use 6004 in the front.

2RS means rubbing seals in each side.

6904 are the same as 61904 for some reason

Nige

Edited December 7, 2019 by Bm1200
Extra info

[thall1]

That’s what fits our 2013 & 2014 4t’s 

[carlos]

The trick is to very carefully peel the outer seal off with a small pick, when the bike (or bearings) are brand new, then put in a bunch more wheel bearing grease, then put the seal carefully back on. Stock bearings from the factory have only a minimum amount in them (maybe 40%) of what can be put in there. Still on the original wheelbearings on my 2016 and 2017 models, and i subject my bikes to a lot of mud and water riding in the Pacific rain forests.

[bultaco82]

I think the 6004 is quite common for the rear wheel on most makes of bikes. I have changed them on a Gas Gas, a Sherco and my understanding the Trs's use them as well. Many woodworking tools use them as well, routers, lipping planers to name a couple. Napa usually stocks them in a couple different grades (prices) so they are readily available locally.  

Sorry just saw you were not from the US. Check your local auto parts store. They probably carry them or can get them easily.

Edited December 13, 2019 by bultaco82
I saw address of original comment.

[b40rt]

On 12/12/2019 at 6:51 PM, carlos said:

The trick is to very carefully peel the outer seal off with a small pick, when the bike (or bearings) are brand new, then put in a bunch more wheel bearing grease, then put the seal carefully back on. Stock bearings from the factory have only a minimum amount in them (maybe 40%) of what can be put in there. Still on the original wheelbearings on my 2016 and 2017 models, and i subject my bikes to a lot of mud and water riding in the Pacific rain forests.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28664/dangers-of-overgreasing-

[carlos]

Interesting article b40rt on over greasing bearings, some of the negatives pertaining to high spinning loads and bearings near electrical components. My own observations of owning dirt bikes for 45 of my 60 years is if you run stock bearings in muddy wet conditions they generally last 6 - 12 months before you have to push them out and replace them (10 to 16 weeks on the old one sided wheel bearings that came on 1980s Honda CR250s). I Peeled the seal in May 2016 and added a smoochload, resealed them, and they where perfect when i looked at them last week on my 2016 Beta 4T Evo, which i ride usually once a week in the wet west coast rain forest's where i live.  If you are lucky enough to live in a sunny climate and only have to dust off your bike once and a while I'm sure your wheel bearings will last much longer. Maybe as a good experiment just do the right side rear and front wheel bearings on your bike, leave the left side alone, then you will have a more accurate results to judge by. 

[b40rt]

1 hour ago, carlos said:

Interesting article b40rt on over greasing bearings, some of the negatives pertaining to high spinning loads and bearings near electrical components. My own observations of owning dirt bikes for 45 of my 60 years is if you run stock bearings in muddy wet conditions they generally last 6 - 12 months before you have to push them out and replace them (10 to 16 weeks on the old one sided wheel bearings that came on 1980s Honda CR250s). I Peeled the seal in May 2016 and added a smoochload, resealed them, and they where perfect when i looked at them last week on my 2016 Beta 4T Evo, which i ride usually once a week in the wet west coast rain forest's where i live.  If you are lucky enough to live in a sunny climate and only have to dust off your bike once and a while I'm sure your wheel bearings will last much longer. Maybe as a good experiment just do the right side rear and front wheel bearings on your bike, leave the left side alone, then you will have a more accurate results to judge by. 

Hi Carlos, in the past I've done exactly as you do, but have discovered for my specific use leaving them as delivered is best. I accept that different conditions require different approaches.

[jimmyl]

I treat bearings as a consumable item.

Buy in bulk for a few pounds each - always keep a 2 or 3 sets of new ones at all times and when they feel too  rough or I have some bigger events coming up I swap them out.

10 min job  - less than a tenner - no stress on the grey matter ??

[ChrisCH]

Has anyone tried stainless steel bearings?  The 6004 rubber seal bearing is very cheap (I can see them online for less than £2) and the stainless is not too bad (£7.50)

We sell trailer wheel bearings and for boat trailers they only last a year or so as they are routinely dipped in seawater.  The stainless versions last a fair bit longer as they don't have the same corrosion issues.  As jimmyl says it is not a big job to do so really a non issue, but I am lazy - if the stainless lasted twice as long that means only half the faffing about.

 

PS I can see the ceramic for a bit more (£12) - might be a better option still?

Edited December 17, 2019 by ChrisCH

[johnnyboxer]

2 hours ago, ChrisCH said:

Has anyone tried stainless steel bearings?  The 6004 rubber seal bearing is very cheap (I can see them online for less than £2) and the stainless is not too bad (£7.50)

We sell trailer wheel bearings and for boat trailers they only last a year or so as they are routinely dipped in seawater.  The stainless versions last a fair bit longer as they don't have the same corrosion issues.  As jimmyl says it is not a big job to do so really a non issue, but I am lazy - if the stainless lasted twice as long that means only half the faffing about.

 

PS I can see the ceramic for a bit more (£12) - might be a better option still?

We have a bearing supplier, just up the road

He recommended the SS versions of bearings, similar to those that are used in the food processing industry (water/heat/steam etc) a good few years ago

So I use them in all my dirt bikes now and very rare to change a bearing afterwards - they do last longer

Luckily he keeps (or can get) every bearing used on bikes, plus all the seals for a fraction of the cost of oem from a bike dealer and all his are quality Japanese manufactured and none of you 'All Balls' stuff

Edited December 17, 2019 by johnnyboxer

[jimmyl]

5 hours ago, ChrisCH said:

Has anyone tried stainless steel bearings?  The 6004 rubber seal bearing is very cheap (I can see them online for less than £2) and the stainless is not too bad (£7.50)

We sell trailer wheel bearings and for boat trailers they only last a year or so as they are routinely dipped in seawater.  The stainless versions last a fair bit longer as they don't have the same corrosion issues.  As jimmyl says it is not a big job to do so really a non issue, but I am lazy - if the stainless lasted twice as long that means only half the faffing about.

 

PS I can see the ceramic for a bit more (£12) - might be a better option still?

If a cheap one last 6 months at £2 then a ceramic would have to last 3 years to break even

Think ill stick with the cheap and cheerful approach  -my wheels are out every weekend so no hardship to swap bearing at the same time. 

I do have 3 set of wheels and bearing swap intervals probably is not the same for each set  - My best wheels - bearing always nearly new  and would swap with slight play appearing , Normal competition wheels  -used for local trials so would allow a bit of play before deciding to change, practice wheels  -  when the tires rub on the swinging arm or fork leg then will change ?? well maybe not that bad

[heffergm]

I'd wager that the vast majority of failed wheel bearings in wet locations is from water ingress. Packing with grease isn't done to lubricate the bearings any 'better', but simply to create a barrier to water. I can't really imagine going through wheel bearings every 6 months... I've put 200+ hours on every bike I've had and I've never done wheel bearings in any of them. But neither do I live in bright and beautiful Britain.

Edited December 17, 2019 by heffergm

[ChrisCH]

1 hour ago, heffergm said:

I'd wager that the vast majority of failed wheel bearings in wet locations is from water ingress. ..

I'm sure you are right.  The UK is a "wet location" ?

i will give stainless a try next time I need some.

[carlos]

4 hours ago, heffergm said:

I'd wager that the vast majority of failed wheel bearings in wet locations is from water ingress. Packing with grease isn't done to lubricate the bearings any 'better', but simply to create a barrier to water. I can't really imagine going through wheel bearings every 6 months... I've put 200+ hours on every bike I've had and I've never done wheel bearings in any of them. But neither do I live in bright and beautiful Britain.

Yes that's what i thought too, funny i don't mind going to the range and blowing off 40$ worth of ammo in 2 or 3 hours, but having to spend 45$ on some bearings when 10 cents of grease and a few minutes to put it in p****s me off! With four motorcycles to look after i find that i unfortunately notice the broken or worn out part just as i'm just about to leave on my ride!