2019 4rt has died on me, cut out and would not start

[54tphill]

1 hour ago, jonnyc21 said:

I agree with lineaway to remove the no spill cap and see how things go.  The two times I have tried one for any of my bikes I have had some kind of issue and ended up deciding not to do it again, no issues sense.  

And always worth a look at any changes that recently happened such as jummyl's suggestion on going back to a kill button to test.  

The lanyard was fitted a year ago when I bought the bike but I’ll check that again. 
you guys say “no spill cap” but there is a hole in it ? Like when I’ve dropped the bike fuel just come out of the cap? 

[457f]

On 8/16/2020 at 11:37 AM, 54tphill said:

My bikes playing up again, rode it 2/3 times for 3 hours a ride, now it’s started stalling/cutting out again, this thread was originally about my bike.

I’m thinking maybe my ecu is faulty, everyone kept saying about the idle so I did fit an Apico hour meter/rev counter but with lock down the bike wasn’t used for a while. 

everyone was saying the rpm needs to be 1800, I fitted the Rev counter after I had tweaked it, 

the rpm only shows 1270 but it’s loud, like it’s reading it wrong ? 
It’s been fitted exactly how the instructions say. If I turn it up it’ll get to 1500 then cut out, turn it down to 900 and it’ll cut out, at 1200 ish it runs ok but occasionally tries to cough, the revs dip randomly. Sometimes I’m riding through a section and it’ll just cut out. 
I must have bought the most unreliable 4rt in England. ..... 

You can switch those tachs for different pulses  mine I had to adjust to p2 to read correct  and if it is a gas cap if you top off the tank and it acts up right away then I would drain most of the fuel out and see if it takes longer to have issues or wha

t lineaway says just pull the cap and see if it acts up  

 

Edited August 18, 2020 by 457f

[54tphill]

4 hours ago, 457f said:

 

How do you change the pulse ? Cheers 

[jimmyl]

If it seems it’s reading twice as fast as it should then set at 925 rpm

[54tphill]

But how does somebody change it ? 

[jimmyl]

Dunno - never had one - just do it by ear and then a bit more for good luck ? 

I probably run mine higher to minimise any chance of the famous four stroke cough 

[jonnyc21]

On 8/17/2020 at 2:37 PM, 54tphill said:

The lanyard was fitted a year ago when I bought the bike but I’ll check that again. 
you guys say “no spill cap” but there is a hole in it ? Like when I’ve dropped the bike fuel just come out of the cap? 

I guess I missed the part about your lanyard being on the bike for along time already.  Side thought, a fellow rider I know had a lanyard kill switch fail internally 8 weeks after he installed it, so still might be worth a check/test. 

As for the cap, I noticed it wasn't stock so agreed with lineaway that they can cause issues so again worth a check.  If you already know it doesn't have any kind of check valve and the whole is currently clear then you should be fine. 

 

As for the hour/tach there should have been a set of instructions that tell you how to deal with RPM's being double what they should be.  (I think I remember it was a HardLine unit you got? If so this is a link to their current instructions: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/8067-2download.pdf)

RPM Section:

Changing Spark/Pulse Input:  
While in Tach mode, press and hold button until until “1P:1r” appears on the display.
Release button if this is the desired mode. Hold button to view more selections.

“1P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 1 revolution.

“1P:2r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 2 revolution.

“2P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 2 Pulse per 1 revolution.

If your RPM reading is double what it should be at idle you need to select “2P:1r”

Refer to your owners manual for correct idle RPM.

 

Hope this helps. 

[54tphill]

On 8/19/2020 at 6:09 AM, jonnyc21 said:

I guess I missed the part about your lanyard being on the bike for along time already.  Side thought, a fellow rider I know had a lanyard kill switch fail internally 8 weeks after he installed it, so still might be worth a check/test. 

As for the cap, I noticed it wasn't stock so agreed with lineaway that they can cause issues so again worth a check.  If you already know it doesn't have any kind of check valve and the whole is currently clear then you should be fine. 

 

As for the hour/tach there should have been a set of instructions that tell you how to deal with RPM's being double what they should be.  (I think I remember it was a HardLine unit you got? If so this is a link to their current instructions: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/8067-2download.pdf)

RPM Section:

Changing Spark/Pulse Input:  
While in Tach mode, press and hold button until until “1P:1r” appears on the display.
Release button if this is the desired mode. Hold button to view more selections.

“1P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 1 revolution.

“1P:2r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 2 revolution.

“2P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 2 Pulse per 1 revolution.

If your RPM reading is double what it should be at idle you need to select “2P:1r”

Refer to your owners manual for correct idle RPM.

 

Hope this helps. 

Right might be getting somewhere now, I’ve held the button down On the Rev meter and changed It, it the went from 1200 to 2400 so I’ve turned it down to 1820, removed the red tank cap thing and kicked the bike up and watched it for a while on the patio , 1820 btw is map 1 and to my surprise in map 2 which I thought was a slower anti skid map it increases the Revs to 2040. 
anyway so listening to the bike, it seems it gets warm the the fan comes on but when the fan stops the bikes revs dip “like try’s to cough” 

it didn’t stall but each time the fan had been on as it went off the cough happens and under riding conditions this must be what keeps it stalling/cutting out 

[jonnyc21]

If you getting that kind of RPM dip when the fan stops I would start checking all of my ground wires and connectors are clean and greased up, and maybe test and/or replace the capacitor just in case. 

Edited August 20, 2020 by jonnyc21

[54tphill]

20 minutes ago, jonnyc21 said:

If you getting that kind of RPM dip when the fan stops I would start checking all of my ground wires and connectors are clean and greased up, and maybe test and/or replace the capacitor just in case. 

Capacitor? Where and what’s it look like? Cheers for your help 

[thall1]

On early bikes it was mounted on the rectifier plate at the back of the engine casing. The capacitor was mounted on the rh side of the bracket .. it’s a bit of a strip down to get too it as I remember. 
if you do get it out have a good look at the wires that connect to it particularly the earth... mine had ‘black wire’ corrosion right back up into the loom where all the earths connect... I had to strip the loom out and replace the earths. Mine was an older bike, 2006 So hopefully yours is ok.
 

[54tphill]

1 hour ago, thall1 said:

On early bikes it was mounted on the rectifier plate at the back of the engine casing. The capacitor was mounted on the rh side of the bracket .. it’s a bit of a strip down to get too it as I remember. 
if you do get it out have a good look at the wires that connect to it particularly the earth... mine had ‘black wire’ corrosion right back up into the loom where all the earths connect... I had to strip the loom out and replace the earths. Mine was an older bike, 2006 So hopefully yours is ok.
 

Ok the the part with the wire for a spark plug is the coil , the middle part with the fins is the fan relay ? And the smaller part is the rectifier ? All 3 parts were changed April 2019, bike was 2 months old at the point.... 

 

[thall1]

The capacitor is mounted vertically on the rectifier plate... it’s a little smaller than a ‘c’ size battery. It’s tight to the air box so the air box and throttle body needs to come out I think. 

[thall1]

The rectifier has the fins.. the small black box is the fan relay 

[Rollox]

My 4RT 2014 had similar problems. The engine stopped after 30-40 min when it was hot, and 1-2 seconds before that the fan was only turning at half speed. With the fan disconnected the engine also stopped, so the fault was not in the fan. Ultimately it was a creeping defect in the fuel pump. I bought a new fuel pump (ebay, 45 EUR) and installed it and that was the solution.

Edited August 21, 2020 by Rollox