aussierider Posted March 21, 2020 Report Share Posted March 21, 2020 Hi all Just wanting to check wiring coming out of points system. I have bike up and running black wire to coil, Got other wires taped up on the outside of casing what colours are for what as mine is a montesa 348 1977 305.8 cc 51m53 3,300 bikes made. As I am wanting to wire up for lights So do I take 1 wire up to swich on handle bar for a live . Then get a earth up to swich then feed off switch for back light and brake light , and font head lamp for dip and main beam Did have Italian wiring colour code but not clear enough to see,and in English translation Which I am also running on roads with trials side car info would appreciated regards phil aussierider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tridentperu Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) Hi, I'm having the same problem... It's not as simple as it first seems as the flywheel magneto arrangement relies on switch contacts to work properly. Ignition is the easy bit, it's the black wire to the coil and then to a kill switch which earths it out and everything stops. The complication comes with the other three. Green and yellow are for the horn and main lights/ and pink for the stop light. The problem is the green and yellow are only joined together when the lights are required. The green one provides power for the horn all the time but also feeds the lights when required, with the yellow one coming into play and providing the extra power required as the green can't do both ( I know this!) Unfortunately I can't seem to achieve this with a normal power / on off / dip switch - so I am probably going to have to buy the correct lighting switch from Spain to get it all to work properly. ( Gorelli L1050 p/n ) It's an AC system not a simple DC system as found on road bikes with a battery....which is where I was coming from...and it didn't work properly! This is as far as I understand it - if someone can steps in and put me straight - feel free!! If you have sorted yours, please let me know how.... Jim Edited July 7, 2020 by Tridentperu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tridentperu Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 I have a wiring diagram if it helps - but not of the exact switch layout which is where it gets trickier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchy3 Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Hi Phil, i have a 247 Cota 1977 vintage and the wires are Yellow for the lights,Black to the coil,Pink to the stop light switch,green to the horn. I have not got the lights wired up on my bike though. They are all just 6 volt feeds from the stator so you could use any of them. Remember the feed is direct without a voltage regulator so expect a few blown bulbs. This is how they were wired from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tridentperu Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Hi, I have finally got this worked out. Turns out the manual and wiring diagram are a bit misleading... Black - Ign coil and condensor and kill switch Pink - Stop light, but it is important to use the correct 15w 6v bulb or it will blow all the time if you use a lower wattage bulb. You could get away with a bit higher wattage but it won't be as bright. Yellow - rear light only - this is a very low powered coil (which is what threw me initially) and will pretty much only light a 5w bulb - Green - Horn and then to feed lighting on /off /dipswitch/headlamp. I got around the need for the special montesa light switch by using a feed from my regular cheap lighting switch to a relay which switches the rear light (yellow wire) circuit in when required. Using a relay means the two circuits do not cross over, which will kill the motor! It is important to use each wire as designed, as yes they are all 6v, but they are all different power and the particular load applied to the coil is what makes it work properly hope this helps Jim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
section swept Posted August 11, 2020 Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) Wouldn’t want to ride on the roads in these days with 6 volt lighting and questionable brightness of headlamp and rear bulb. You get more light from a mini mag light torch, used one attached to the handlebars to ride in the dark....long story don’t ask! Modern bicycle lamps will show more effective light both front and rear and with batteries in top condition will last a few good hours. At mot time ( not a daytime specification mot) standard engine supplied powered lights and horn...depending upon year of bike manufacturer a bulb horn is not always acceptable nor is a battery powered horn, even though it may be more effective...the laws an Ass sometimes. When you haive the mot then fit the bicycle lights, they are both light and small and resist vibration, something a stop and tail light bulb has difficulty in doing. Some riders use a spot lamp fixed in the dipped position with just an on/off switch that meets const. and use regs. A resistor in line for the rear and another for the headlight should prevent high revs blowing bulbs...can’t remember the electrical triangle equation to give the resistance value. R (I) over W x V when I can be a***d I’ll look it up in my notes...some one reading this is bound to dive in with the formula. If the ignition coil (low tension) has been replaced with a modded design the horn wire may well be attached to this and should be fine as no one will hear the horn and you won’t be using it...the engine exhaust note will be enough if its walkers in the way...in traffic forget it, shoutings more effective. I would use the yellow for the horn. Green for the head and tail with resistors fitted. Pink for the stop light via switch to bulb for which you would use a stop and tail bulb rated at 6v 21/5w...a twin filament bulb.?? Edited August 11, 2020 by section swept 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchy3 Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 I have no lights on my Cota 247. I still had the original wires that were exactly the same colour codes as the 348 but it is a very basic system with no voltage regulator so expect poor lighting and frequent blown bulbs. In the end i went for Electrex electronic ignition which was the basic two coil without the lighting coils. I put a six volt horn on the bike for legality which is just wired via a fuse to a rechargeable 6 volt alarm battery housed in the original tool tray under the seat unit.It works perfectly when the bike is stationary rather than running it from a stator coil AC horn which i have never had much success with. In the UK with the bike being over 40 years old i do not need an MOT or tax and even though with no lights a reflector even is not required i fitted one under the legal sized number plate just so i don,t attract too much attention. If i decide to run a stop light i can tap in to the 6 volt battery on a total loss ststem as the battery should last a few hours without recharging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
section swept Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 On 8/12/2020 at 8:56 AM, frenchy3 said: I have no lights on my Cota 247. I still had the original wires that were exactly the same colour codes as the 348 but it is a very basic system with no voltage regulator so expect poor lighting and frequent blown bulbs. In the end i went for Electrex electronic ignition which was the basic two coil without the lighting coils. I put a six volt horn on the bike for legality which is just wired via a fuse to a rechargeable 6 volt alarm battery housed in the original tool tray under the seat unit.It works perfectly when the bike is stationary rather than running it from a stator coil AC horn which i have never had much success with. In the UK with the bike being over 40 years old i do not need an MOT or tax and even though with no lights a reflector even is not required i fitted one under the legal sized number plate just so i don,t attract too much attention. If i decide to run a stop light i can tap in to the 6 volt battery on a total loss ststem as the battery should last a few hours without recharging. At 40 years old I think you can use a squeaky bulb type horn. Save a bit of weight on your battery set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tridentperu Posted August 15, 2020 Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 Thanks for the pointers, and I fully accept that a separate battery powered/ pushbike lights/ led system would be better, and that the original 6v ac lights are crap. But, I just wanted to have some form of illumination if needed. Anyway, my relay idea was great in theory but didn't work in practice....It hadn't dawned on me that the relay needed dc to function correctly! So, I have just gone for a separate toggle switch for the rear light and the headlight is operated through the main switch. Not perfect but it does give me the option of just having the rear light on if I want - the rear light runs off the yellow wire. I did try and run the horn off that, but it didn't produce enough power. All done now and working 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchy3 Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 On 8/14/2020 at 4:18 PM, section swept said: At 40 years old I think you can use a squeaky bulb type horn. Save a bit of weight on your battery set up. I think you need a single continuous tone to be completely legal,i think bulb horns are legal on pre 65 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
section swept Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 On 8/17/2020 at 7:59 AM, frenchy3 said: I think you need a single continuous tone to be completely legal,i think bulb horns are legal on pre 65 though. C&U regs upto 1973/4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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