feetupfun Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 The ideal footpeg position depends on a lot of things and you won't be able to know for sure until you have test ridden it so yes bolt-on adjustable position pegs are the go for an experimental bike like yours. For a starting point, I'd mount the pegs so that the middle of the peg platform is in line with the front end of the tyre tread with the axle at mid slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 On 4/3/2020 at 1:27 AM, feetupfun said: For a starting point, I'd mount the pegs so that the middle of the peg platform is in line with the front end of the tyre tread with the axle at mid slot. What he said ^^ Height wise, somewhere if you take a horizontal line from the bottom of the gearbox sprocket window. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ftwelder Posted April 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 I have noticed that people bend the down tube to change the wheelbase as well as head angle. I cut my head tube off, mitered the frame 3* steeper, made a Bultaco head tube and am currently welding it on. I did a wheel check and have 40mm tire to frame at full compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 3 hours ago, Ftwelder said: I have noticed that people bend the down tube to change the wheelbase as well as head angle. I cut my head tube off, mitered the frame 3* steeper, made a Bultaco head tube and am currently welding it on. I did a wheel check and have 40mm tire to frame at full compression. Yes that will work with some frames but on many frames (eg Sherpa T and KT250) the wheel is already close to the front downtube or exhaust header with the standard setup. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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