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clutch advice


retromlc
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I seem to have improved it's progressive feel, stripped it and measured everything, all steel plates the same thickness as were the fibre ones.i noticed the one side of the tang on the steel is more rounded off and I may have had them facing out, can't be sure, so refitted them facing inward figuring the clutch engaging may be smoother that way, tested and seems to be correct, much happier with the clutch now

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Did not see your last post. The fuel screw is in front of the bowl towards the engine intake, under the carb. That is why you need the thumb screw. And usually the dealers do not recommend jetting changes. The only reason I can reason is it is hard. The Beta owners manual showed the jetting changes for years, under competition jetting. The 4t always came lean for emissions.

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As lineaway says Retro. It’s under the intake side and not air box side And side of carb like a 2t air screw. I’ve not ever looked at a 4t fuel screw on a Evo but I know on other dirt bikes they are a pig to get to at the best of times. I used to use a little 90 degree ratchet on my KTM 4t to reach it. I can see why people suggest adding the thumb screw for easy adjusting. 
 

Try wiping a permanent marker over the jet markings and wipe wipe your finger before dry. The marker ink will stay in the markings but wipe off the outside making the numbers easy to see....

Edited by pindie
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Its a 127,5 having a mare getting the carb back in, I'm pretty sure I have the connection rubber boot from back if carb to airbox facing the right way as the fitting diameter it.larger in the carb side than the.airbix side, but I can't get it all connected without it rolling off the back of the carb as I tighten the jubalie clip, any suggestions

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Squirt some WD40 or similar lube on the inside of the rubber manifolds. The best way to get the carb off is to remove all the clamps and slide the rear air boot all the way back until it bottoms on the air box. It’s easy to pivot the carb out. It takes some force but not so much you’ll be worried. Same to reinstall. Twist carb into engine side manifold first and rotate into position. This will collapse the rear boot. Use a thin tool (I use my comically long curved hemostat but a screwdriver works in a pinch as long as you’re careful not to puncture the air boot or shave metal off the carb) to chase it around the intake bell and once it’s on slide the boot onto the carb until it seats. Reinstall the clamps.

Lubing the rubber makes a huge difference just like changing a tire.

Edited by dan williams
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Worth pointing out two tools that are extremely useful and hardly thought of. Hemostats are those locking tweezer thingys that are used in surgery. I use them (depending on size) for holding components for soldering to chasing rubber boots onto carbs to retrieving small parts from inaccessible places. You don’t need them often but once you do you’ll be glad you have them. Places like Amazon or Harbor Freight sell cheap sets. Other surgical tools are also handy like small angled scissors. The other weird tools that have proven really useful are dental picks. Stainless steel picks bent at various angles with sharp points. I used one yesterday to clear dirt from around an air screw on a carb. Also useful for picking o-rings out of recessed grooves or cleaning silt out of calipers during rebuild.

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