tom2010 Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 What with this whole isolation thing I’ve dragged my Beta techno out of its resting place at my parents to give it a good going over, I’m normally on enduros but would be good to get it back running. fuel line had gone hard and broken and the water pump seal had gone too so pulled engine out, tidied up wiring, did seals and head O rings, cleaned carb, new fuel etc. Yet to fire up...but I’ve been refurbing brakes, got calipers off, pushed pistons out, they’re pretty clean but but new seals in and pushed them back in, new fluid etc. The front has good pressure but is absolutely terrible, minimal stopping power. Pads are good, disc is good, pressure is good but it just feels spongy and rubbish. Slows you down but not a lot. Anything else to check? and the rear...proving to be the nightmare hat all techno rear brakes are. Managed to get a bit of pressure - can see pistons moving slightly - but not a lot, this was with the whole system off...just a case of keep going with bleeding? cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 You did bleed it with the caliper up, and mc at the bottom. Clear hose to see what is happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom2010 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 The front or rear? I used a syringe to bleed as I do on my ktm’s, sucking through rather than back bleed as I understand the rear has a ball bearing in so can't back bleed, with the front I could then just pump the lever until bubbles worked up through to top of system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 Ride the bike with the front brake on and get it hot.Blast the disc with the garden hose.Sounds like witchcraft but it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 1 hour ago, tom2010 said: The front or rear? I used a syringe to bleed as I do on my ktm’s, sucking through rather than back bleed as I understand the rear has a ball bearing in so can't back bleed, with the front I could then just pump the lever until bubbles worked up through to top of system I was talking about the rear. But I bet the front pads are contaminated. If you want it to work start with fresh pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom2010 Posted April 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 Will try a new set of pads in, seem to remember it was never great even after the last new set of pads. will try getting some heat into it and the water too. And get back to bleeding the rear... fired it up tonight, first time in about 2 years, took a few kicks to start and then a few to really catch properly and then ran ok. Clutch isn’t engaging which isn’t unusual for a techno and the fan doesn’t seek to be kicking in but it’s a work in progress...Assume there’s nothing to be done about the clutch? Just a techno fault...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted April 17, 2020 Report Share Posted April 17, 2020 You can just ride around with the clutch till it breaks free. The front brakes work fine on the Techno. You can just by pass the thermostat to try to make the fan work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Yes stuck clutch plates are a very common thing on any bike that has not been used for a while, not just Technos. It can even happen overnight if the conditions are right. If in the unlikely event that it doesn't release after riding around with the clutch pulled in, the friction plates may have become too well stuck to the steel plates from rust in which case you may have to take the clutch cover off and remove the plates one at a time to free them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Without starting it,put in 6th gear,pull the clutch in and pull it backwards hard,this normally frees the clutch.Might save you stripping it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom2010 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Tried the 6th gear trick and hasn’t freed it off so out with the clutch! other issues... replaced the water pump seal, looks like the oil has emulsified again. Hard to tell as it was ATF so red and now is a pink so wondering if I hadn’t flushed it properly. Head o rings done at same time so can't be that. Potential engine case corrosion? and finally the fan! Doesn’t seem to be kicking in, it definitely works and I had stator rewound fairly recently. When I take the wires off the thermo and touch them together it starts the fan and kills engine so assume there’s a wire wrong somewhere? (Has loads of fun sorting wiring when I first bought it as it was an absolute shambles) hope you’re all enjoying Quality time with your bikes during isolation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Sounds like the fan is powered by the ignition circuit which is wrong as it's unrectified A/C current and as you've found kills the ignition when the fan comes on.It needs to be powered by the lighting circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker Stalker Posted May 10, 2020 Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 On the back brake comment - I have recently purchased a 1998 Techno - was a bit ratty but have worked on it to get it to a reasonable standard but the back brake was the hard one. I worked out that you don't get enough stroke on the master cylinder piston by using the back brake lever so I removed it and used a T handle Allen wrench with the ball end on it to bleed it through - I basically gives the piston more stroke to push out the air. It took a couple of goes - bled it rode it around then re bled it but managed to get a reasonable pedal - I also found that the actuating arm (between the pedal and the master cylinder) doesn't seem to have enough length - even when you wind up the thread to maximum and lock it off the brake is still lacking. I took a longer threaded 6mm bolt (an old engine case bolt from a previous project) which is about 20mm longer and rounded the end - this allows the master cylinder to be engaged further and I can now lock the rear wheel. A bit of fiddling around to get it to work but very satisfying when you can get a nice solid brake on the rear. Hope this helps. I have attached a Pic of my Beta - not an oil painting and later decals are fitted but it mechanically its just about there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom2010 Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Lovely looking techno, Walker. i got a bit distracted solving other issues on it the last couple of weeks...namely my new water pump seal hadn’t solved the issue so off with the case and new shaft too and a pain bleeding radiator through. Seems to be sealing now which is good. wired fan into lighting coil so that now works although isn’t kicking in on thermo which is unusual as it used to so another thing to order... Issue now, as well as brakes, is that it seems to be building revs when it gets up to temperature. Air leak somewhere? Or anything else to consider also going to have to rebuild forks... and then splitting the cases on my ktm...aren’t bikes fun ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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