Plastic screws to secure rear fender

[leosantanalg]

Who has and what did you get? Links?

I understand that you can use plastic screws in an attempted to save rear fender right!!! 

I m A bit nervous. I break a rear fender almost every month religiously. Just got my first beta coming from a 300rr. I use to have $20 rear fenders and now i guess they will be $150. What tricks are out there to prevent damage? 

[stpauls]

In the UK we use plastic number plate screws.  You will need 3.  Here is a link to some on E.Bay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Black-Plastic-Number-Plate-Screws-Black-Bolt-Fixings-Brand-New/293550237171?hash=item4458f525f3:g:ZC0AAOSwW35ekgHt

 

[greychapel]

Some folk use zip ties 

[pjw123]

6mm UK number plate screws are perfect for the job. They look like they were meant to be there, & act as shear bolts in a prang, thus saving you rear guard. Easily removed & replaced . Zip ties quicker & easier, but look like sh**.  

[thall1]

Put a saw cut under the head of the plastic bolt if you want to go a bit further to help save the rear fender

[Bm1200]

Plastic screws are god but may only solve part of your problem. I have the later air filter cover type and found you need an M5 screw for the lid otherwise you can still snap the mudguard. You can run an M5 die down an M6 screw which saves ordering 2 lots of screws. I also cut the lip of the mudguard where is meets the air box.

like other people say you can use tie wraps but it wont save you if the air filter lid is bolted down.

I buy M6 x 16 screws on eBay from China take ages to come but cost next to nothing.

 

Nige

[bikerpet]

I'm another who buys M6 x 16 from ebay - they are rubbish screws but that's actually an advantage in this situation. 20mm might be better as the 16's often strip and pull out too easily - I'll buy them next time.

For the airbox cover I just use a button head to hold the filter in place. I heated and pushed the bottom of the cover nipple (where the bolt usually seats) up a little so it sits down properly now there's a bolt under it. Then used Bear or Norton or somesuch Weather Proof clear tape to tape the airbox cover to the guard.

At the back I use thin zip ties - just pre-bend the tip of the right hand one so it feeds through OK. I keep 4 spares tucked in the handlebar cables because they do break easily - sometimes I bust one just kicking the guard as I inelegantly mount or dismount, but I'd prefer that little nuisance than buying a new guard!

I also trimmed the hook under the guard - probably could have just reduced it rather than trim it almost right back. Ended up sort of re-creating it with some good duct tape to keep a good seal.

Now the whole guard and airbox cover come off as one piece.

I've snapped innumerable zip ties and lost or broken perhaps 8 or so plastic bolts, but the guard is just like new.

I also made a filter cover out of an old acetate binder cover - rough copy of one you can buy aftermarket for $$ - keeps some of the bigger debris and water out of the filter.

[trapezeartist]

On 5/16/2020 at 12:51 PM, bikerpet said:

I'm another who buys M6 x 16 from ebay - they are rubbish screws but that's actually an advantage in this situation. 20mm might be better as the 16's often strip and pull out too easily - I'll buy them next time.

For the airbox cover I just use a button head to hold the filter in place. I heated and pushed the bottom of the cover nipple (where the bolt usually seats) up a little so it sits down properly now there's a bolt under it. Then used Bear or Norton or somesuch Weather Proof clear tape to tape the airbox cover to the guard.

At the back I use thin zip ties - just pre-bend the tip of the right hand one so it feeds through OK. I keep 4 spares tucked in the handlebar cables because they do break easily - sometimes I bust one just kicking the guard as I inelegantly mount or dismount, but I'd prefer that little nuisance than buying a new guard!

I also trimmed the hook under the guard - probably could have just reduced it rather than trim it almost right back. Ended up sort of re-creating it with some good duct tape to keep a good seal.

Now the whole guard and airbox cover come off as one piece.

I've snapped innumerable zip ties and lost or broken perhaps 8 or so plastic bolts, but the guard is just like new.

I also made a filter cover out of an old acetate binder cover - rough copy of one you can buy aftermarket for $$ - keeps some of the bigger debris and water out of the filter.

I like the idea of fixing the air filter cover to the mudguard. I’ll try that. I always remove the mudguard after a trial anyway.

I tried the aftermarket shield over the filter and it didn’t seem to do everything. Then I tanktaped the frame just in front of the filter (as described in the Beta UK SSDT prep guide) and that was quite effective, although not perfect.

Edited May 18, 2020 by trapezeartist
Missing word

[bikerpet]

9 hours ago, trapezeartist said:

I like the idea of fixing the air filter to the mudguard. I’ll try that. I always remove the mudguard after a trial anyway.

I tried the aftermarket shield over the filter and it didn’t seem to do everything. Then I tanktaped the frame just in front of the filter (as described in the Beta UK SSDT prep guide) and that was quite effective, although not perfect.

The SSDT prep sheet says to seal the airbox cover, so doing a neat and semi-permanent job doesn't seem to have much downside. Nipping a couple of cable ties and pulling out two nylon screws is insignificant compared to cleaning, oiling and refitting the filter anyway. Works for me.

I haven't taped the front of my frame, as it comes in to winter I'll give it a try though. I bought some reticulated foam from ebay for cheap (fish tank filter) so I'll fit that too as the SSDT guide also suggests. The cover did help keep out the big debris for me - leaves and such.

On my previous Sherco I fitted strong magnets to the rear guard - that worked a treat. When the guard got pulled off it simply re-attached itself automatically, half the time I never even really knew it had come off. I tried an industrial velcro on the Beta but that was a complete fail. I haven't worked out how to squeeze magnets into the Beta so I keep using cable ties.

The other somewhat related mod I've done was to the rubbish front mudguard integral brace. Once it inevitably started to fail I cut the black plastic brace out and made an aluminium brace. I've drawings for that if it's of interest. I've got a basic press brake, but it could be bent in a vice easily enough.

[trapezeartist]

On 5/17/2020 at 8:09 AM, bikerpet said:

The SSDT prep sheet says to seal the airbox cover, so doing a neat and semi-permanent job doesn't seem to have much downside. Nipping a couple of cable ties and pulling out two nylon screws is insignificant compared to cleaning, oiling and refitting the filter anyway. Works for me.

I haven't taped the front of my frame, as it comes in to winter I'll give it a try though. I bought some reticulated foam from ebay for cheap (fish tank filter) so I'll fit that too as the SSDT guide also suggests. The cover did help keep out the big debris for me - leaves and such.

On my previous Sherco I fitted strong magnets to the rear guard - that worked a treat. When the guard got pulled off it simply re-attached itself automatically, half the time I never even really knew it had come off. I tried an industrial velcro on the Beta but that was a complete fail. I haven't worked out how to squeeze magnets into the Beta so I keep using cable ties.

The other somewhat related mod I've done was to the rubbish front mudguard integral brace. Once it inevitably started to fail I cut the black plastic brace out and made an aluminium brace. I've drawings for that if it's of interest. I've got a basic press brake, but it could be bent in a vice easily enough.

I had forgotten the reticulated foam. I'll try to get a bit and add that in too. I find it ridiculous that a modern state-of-the-art bike should draw so much crap into the air filter. I could go at least 6 trials without even touching the filter on my Fantic 200.

[bikerpet]

19 hours ago, trapezeartist said:

I had forgotten the reticulated foam. I'll try to get a bit and add that in too. I find it ridiculous that a modern state-of-the-art bike should draw so much crap into the air filter. I could go at least 6 trials without even touching the filter on my Fantic 200.

Ha. I'm not sure I ever cleaned the air filter on my TY175 back in the '70's. Perhaps I should have? ?

I reckon you've got to keep in mind they design them for the elite end of the spectrum - I don't think that lot care too much if the filter needs a clean every few days, just set the mechanic on it. I'd have to say that for the most part the Beta seems pretty well done, surprising for the country that created Alfa Romeo & Fiat. ?️

[Rostahonhka]

I understand your frustration with those rear fender issues, especially when it's becoming a monthly ritual. That can be tough on the wallet! When it comes to using plastic screws to secure the rear fender and save some bucks, I've got a trusty online store for all things screws and bolts: https://www.scrooz.com.au/. I've used them for various DIY projects, and they've got quite the selection. I know how important it is to find cost-effective solutions, especially when it comes to your bike. So, give the store a look, and you might just find the right screws to help prevent that frequent damage.

Edited September 28, 2023 by Rostahonhka