lost2 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hi everyone I have a 2006 Sherco 290 that had been kicking back, hard starting and even started and ran backwards (which is more funny than a clown on fire) However, I suspected that the stator was at fault. Upon removal it appears that the stator somehow at some point rubbed against the flywheel. I removed the stator and sent it to a reputable stator rebuilder in Canada but they said we can't repair this one due that it look like something hit the inner pulse coil and we do not have any specification for this to validate if it's good are not. I provided them all the specs that were available on trials central for testing the stator, but if it is for the Hall Sensor no specs are available. My question is does anyone have the specs for the Hall Sensor or should I send the stator to Splatshop for a rebuild? thanks in advance, I have been reading this forum for some time and always found the answers to my questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupsbetter Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Could also try Bradford ignitions at Hayle in Cornwall, uk. Did a great job on my evo stator at a very reasonable price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 13, 2021 Report Share Posted March 13, 2021 If you look on splatshop's site they have how to check your stator to confirm if a rebuild is needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat kiwi Posted April 5, 2021 Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 Hi. If it’s the twin map leonelli stator (two plugs with 3 wires two each and a yellow wire then the hall sensors are the SS543AT unipolar ones with what I believe to be 6.3Mohm pull up resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lost2 Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 Thanks for the inputs. I send it to Steven at Bradford Ignitions and he is already onto it. But he mention that the inner side of the rotor has been rubbing against the trigger. I am afraid that there may be too much end float on the crank shaft. I was reading on the forum that there is often some end float on the 290 due to the type of bearings. Can't think of anything else that would cause this, woodruff key is in place and it was torqued down properly. Now I am worried that I may have to do a crank bearing replacement... Oddly there is no noise, or knocks when its running. Is there any way to replace the bearing without full teardown? With my KTM its possible to pull the crank bearing out without tearing into it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat kiwi Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 Hi. That’s a strange problem. I would suggest measuring the protruding end of the crank shaft that the magneto flywheel attaches to. I can measure mine tomorrow and see if it’s the same. If not, I’d crack the cases open and have a look at what’s going on. I’ve completely rebuilt 2 of these engines without any problems apart from removing the seized in swing arm bolt (I’m an electrician and not particularly mechanical minded). Parts from Splatshop and the rebuild guide from Ryan Young. I’ve only heard excellent reviews about Bradford Ignitions so whatever advice they suggest I’d go with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lost2 Posted April 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 I do recall noticing radial play in the crankshaft/ bearing when I try to lift the magneto up/down. I really didn't want to have to go through the teardown with new seals, bearings etc. With my luck most of the time it ends in new piston, crank etc etc. I am ok with the mechanics part, not so good with electrical... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat kiwi Posted April 18, 2021 Report Share Posted April 18, 2021 Hopefully you’re all sorted now. Just a quick update on the Leonelli stator repair. The twin trigger circuit is really basic. To completely rebuild it like new you need 2 SS543AT Hall effect sensors (eBay/Amazon), two 22uF capacitors, some epoxy glue and a small soldering iron. Dig out the old epoxy with a knife, replace faulty item(s), test using Splatshop’s ohm/diode values guide on their website. If ok - reseal with epoxy and enjoy. Took me about an hour to do- cost a tenner. Bike started first kick and learnt a fair bit about ignition timing in the process. Hope this helps if it happens again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lost2 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Fat Kiwi I did get the stator sorted. I won't be home for another 2 months (in Mozambique), but I do appreciate your skills in delving into the heart of the Leonelli. I hope that I won't have to repair it for some time but this is an excellent reference for the diy guy. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoan Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 On 4/18/2021 at 2:28 AM, fat kiwi said: Hopefully you’re all sorted now. Just a quick update on the Leonelli stator repair. The twin trigger circuit is really basic. To completely rebuild it like new you need 2 SS543AT Hall effect sensors (eBay/Amazon), two 22uF capacitors, some epoxy glue and a small soldering iron. Dig out the old epoxy with a knife, replace faulty item(s), test using Splatshop’s ohm/diode values guide on their website. If ok - reseal with epoxy and enjoy. Took me about an hour to do- cost a tenner. Bike started first kick and learnt a fair bit about ignition timing in the process. Hope this helps if it happens again. Thanks for this expertise Fat kiwi!!! I'm also trying to help a friend with his 290 2006 that lost fire and did start backward almost every time before the total fail. I did test all stator's coils wich are good and did all splatshop tests to connectors. Brown wire test fail so a cap or an hall sensor is failing if I am not wrong. I'm ready to order those ss543at and 22uf caps (circuit clear of epoxy already) for the swap but it look like voltages are needed to order the appropriated ones. Am I wrong? It will be enormously appriciated if you can precise this last detail so I can order parts and try to get this bike alive again! Thank you very much in advance and sorry for my poor english! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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