fox889 Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Again, I use the word slowly to emphasise the rate this refurb is taking. Local engineering guy turned me out a couple of spacers for the front & rear wheel, how anyone previous can lose a spacer, heavens knows. Doesn’t really matter as a tenner for both spacers is money well spent. Both front & rear wheels now line up pin straight. The rear shocks were quite short according to one of the comments on here, so a pair of Betor ‘steels’ were acquired from Bike revival uk, ace guy Simon listened patiently to my thoughts then came up with a pair of these, £105 all in inc delivery, again, money well spent. The old ones were 310mm & these are 360mm, makes the a*** end look really nice! The old Micron handle bars weren’t in that bad a condition, but I felt if these were put back on it wouldn’t do the rest of the bike justice. Inmotion had a pair of ‘proper’ trials bars for £50 odd I think, there’s no ‘bridge’ between the bars which again, makes the bike look ok. They’re next to go on. I was going to purchase a ‘long’ rear mudguard, the one I have at present is a ‘short’ one, it’s cleaned up ok so rather than fork out £60 (inc p&p) I thought I’d just leave it be for the time being. There is a financial limit to what I can spend on this. My 242 has a short one, previous owner made a plastic ‘bridge that gap’ to stop all kinds of crap flying towards the engine, I shall have to fabricate something similar in Perspex or plastic, I’ll see what the bank balance says first! No sign of the engine, dare say it hasn’t even been started, it’s no hassle really, as this was always going to be a summer project in readiness for a winter trial or something next year. Now I’m on the home straight as it were, it would be nice to have the engine rebuild at least started. Once it’s stripped, I’ll have the casings to paint satin black. If anyone spots something I’m doing daft or wrong (perfectly feasible knowing me!) then just shout! Best wishes Nick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotors7 Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 If your new handlebars are the of the fat variety then you will most likely need a set of adapter mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox889 Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 22 minutes ago, rotors7 said: If your new handlebars are the of the fat variety then you will most likely need a set of adapter mounts. They’re standard 22mm bars so, in theory, they should be ok. Slightly wider by a tad by the looks of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr nosh Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox889 Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 1 hour ago, dr nosh said: Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK. Thanks Dr Nosh The old bars were Micron 22mm so I assumed that 7/8” (22mm) were standard fitment. The new bars seem to sit ok so again, I assume one of the previous owners had changed the bars & fixings.. The front & rear wheels are only a finger tight fit just to see how things line up. The rear sprocket had ( and still has) tapered bolts on the rear sprocket so couldn’t use any washers (I assume that’s correct?) thread lock is a good idea & when everything lines up I’ll probably remove the rear wheel & loctite the bolts on the sprocket as suggested, good idea! Well spotted the missing pinch bolt.....mitigating circumstances M’lud......I draw my learned friend to the previous paragraph stating “front & rear wheels are only finger tight”😁😁 I had been down to the local ironmongers (do people still call these ironmongers?) & bought a load of s/s nuts, bolts & washers, one of which was specifically for the front fork pinch bolt but hadn’t fitted before the photo was taken. Phew, got out of that one!😳 Appreciate your interest in the refurb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox889 Posted May 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Dr Nosh: I’ve put the 22mm bars on & everything seems to tighten down fine, the risers/saddles (call them what you may) seem old/original. They have 1-5 on the lower saddle, not exactly sure why? The shims you were talking about, I assume, go top & bottom of the bar itself? In this case, a) are they needed and b) would they fit? Appreciate your thoughts. Tayld: made the point that I’d got original tapered rear sprocket bolts on a non countersunk sprocket. I had noticed that but it didn’t sink in as a possible problem. I’ve put an M8 bolt & spring washer just to show what it’ll look like ( I need some new spring washers from the “ironmongers”😜), I think when all the bolts are changed to M8 it’ll be fine. Front mudguard on, front wheel tightened up, new pinch bolt installed & she’s looking ok I think. W.I.P. Work In Progress as they say!😁 If you think I’m doing summat wrong, then please just shout, no umbrage will be taken I assure you! Thanks for looking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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