slowrider Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Going to shoot some black on these for now till I can get some in better condition, are these welds going to rub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 love it when I get back from powder coating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Did not like the blue, so before anybody says anything, its not going to be a 100% restoration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 1 hour ago, slowrider said: Did not like the blue, so before anybody says anything, its not going to be a 100% restoration It's your bike. Do with it what you will. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2022 Ok now its time to send some serious coin to Motion and other places...Hmmm where to begin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 4:05 PM, woody said: You need to put a picture of the part you're referring to as from your description it could be a preload spacer or an oil deflector. Preload spacers are alloy and sit on top of the fork spring under the cap. The oil deflector is steel and pushes up into the bottom of the spring and sits over the top of the damper rod. I'd guess it's the deflector you're asking about Your damper rod is certainly different from any other Sherpa rod I've seen If these are not the standard fork valves, should I use them? What did they come out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 Well I tried Feked and trials france but neither site would let me buy anything, website was a POS. So I am off to motion since the wesite actually seems to work and take my money..very frustrating. Would like to go through Hughes, but his website is worthless also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted February 11, 2022 Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 On 2/9/2022 at 9:21 PM, slowrider said: If these are not the standard fork valves, should I use them? What did they come out of? They could just be another, later variant of Betor damper rods, all the components are the same as the usual rods, just a different design but they function in the same way. If the forks work as they should there is no need to change them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Looking for some nice foot pegs that are not weld on, something with a bling factor would also be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourex Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 12 hours ago, slowrider said: Looking for some nice foot pegs that are not weld on, something with a bling factor would also be nice I think it's too late for that now, you've powder coated the frame, can't alter the original Bully footpeg brackets now without wrecking the coating. I don't think you're slow enough in your thought process 'slowrider', you should procrastinate more like I like to do. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motovita Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, slowrider said: Looking for some nice foot pegs that are not weld on, something with a bling factor would also be nice Assuming you're working on a Sherpa T, I think modern pegs in the original high mounts would look hideous. Pursang/Frontera pegs will fit and look original. I just looked at your earlier posts. Modern, thicker, gaskets in stead of the original paper type, will help with weld clearance on your cases, you may still need to do some grinding though. Edited February 17, 2022 by motovita 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 6 hours ago, fourex said: I think it's too late for that now, you've powder coated the frame, can't alter the original Bully footpeg brackets now without wrecking the coating. I don't think you're slow enough in your thought process 'slowrider', you should procrastinate more like I like to do. Procrastinate is my middle name! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourex Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 3 hours ago, slowrider said: Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm Grib in Spain again, https://www.grib.net/race/prestashop/gb/sump-plates/40-72-bultaco-sherpa-199-plus-7075-sump-plate.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrider Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 To zerk or not to zerk, that is the question! I have seen some people add zerk fittings to the swing arm and after the nightmare it was to remove the bolt it may not be a bad idea, but what would be the prime location? underneath would be quickly damaged and so was thinking on top if I could get at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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