jwalsh Posted January 26, 2022 Report Share Posted January 26, 2022 Does anyone have a procedure for adjusting the compression release cable? I understand the engine must be rotated a certain position and then the cable adjusted for a certain measurement somewhere. Any clarification would be great. Once it is properly adjusted, perhaps some advice on the best way to kick it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keychange Posted January 26, 2022 Report Share Posted January 26, 2022 There is a clearance but I can't look up at the moment. Tighten the adjuster just tight then back off half a turn. Watch the comp lever as you activate the kick start to make sure it moves. If you have it too tight you will hear a phhhttt exhaust leak sound. If too loose the engine is quite hard to push past TDC (surprisingly so for a small engine). So if it is still hard to kick over, tighten adjuster 1/4 turn and try again...ad lib, fade and repeat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevec Posted January 26, 2022 Report Share Posted January 26, 2022 This should help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwalsh Posted January 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 Thank you! I see two procedures offered and between them I think I get it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BHTrials Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Huge thank you for sharing this information. I know it seems crazy that folks are still pulling information off of these forums for what is approaching a 40 year old machine sold for a total of 2 years in the US. Between this thread and one in a European forum, I think I was able to sort out what was happening to my kick starter/brake pedal area. Bought a very low mileage Reflex several years ago in Oklahoma--had always wanted one of these when I was a kid since I learned to ride on a TL125 and found myself with some extra cash matching the deal price. Bike had been owned by an elderly woman that at one point used it as her commuting vehicle, but basically sat for a decade... was bought by a guy that was planning to use it as a commuting vehicle--who suddenly needed to sell it to pay for a vehicle repair. Bought the bike with title, all original road gear etc still on it and a couple thousand miles for 1k and a 4 hour drive! Had always assumed the rear brake pedal had been damaged pre-ownership but tried to bend it back into place this year. Had wondered if it was the wrong kick starter on the bike, but research showed it identical to others in pictures. Was surprised to see it immediately reverted back to the bent forward/smashed up shape, and eventually deduced that the kickstart stop was bent inward and no longer functioning. Unlike the brake pedal, this piece is solid and not easily returned to shape so I found it surprising that it would be hit with enough force often enough to bend. Anyways, between this thread and the one in the German forum diagnosing a breaking kick starter I was able to adjust the cable, re-align the T marks adjusting the crank, and order a replacement kick stop. Still have to fix the rear brake pedal as the foot section broke free from all the bending and hitting but seems like an easy plan to weld on a section from a new pedal ideally moving it a tiny bit forward and out for access. Upgrades I have gleaned from the many forums: Footpeg lowering/backwards bracket kit from UK High rise trials bars, new grips New tires front/back, cheap DOT compliant trials tread Used "CEET" off ebay which makes the bike much more comfortable for extended riding Rear shocks replaced with XL185S replica shocks, minor tweaking to re-use eye on one end After wasting money with several replica carbs, that seemed to run as lean as the original repaired original Sanded down warped section of body that was causing sticking Replaced main and pilot jet with upgrade kit original parts cited in this forum Played with sprocket combos... 12T front 44T rear seemed to make it a bit more trail friendly, without sacrificing a lot of top speed Picked up used spare wheel assembly and mounted an unused but very old regular trials tire. Ordered a 48T sprocket with my kick stop piece as well as a 10T front with circlip Plan is to revert back to 13T front and 44T DOT wheel for trail/dual sport riding when I ride with my larger regular dual sport bikes. Not highway capable, but enjoyed riding in mountain backroads and logging trails Use the 10T/48T Trial rear riding on my property or the local motorcycle park with the trials guys Remaining tasks: Rebuild front forks with fresh fluids and seals. Plan to buy a modern trials bike again. Great fun little bike that is good at nothing. Still not sure I won't revert to riding one of my older TL125s when I go out following the real trials bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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