Workshirk Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 Hi all, I don’t want to be ‘that guy’ by asking a whole bunch of questions here rather than doing my own research however… I have found and am about to buy, subject to a visit, a fully restored 1984 TY250 Mono, (in Canada) and not being any kind of expert on these bikes, I would hugely appreciate any advice or things to look for on this bike. I’m not looking to modify it or tune it, not at the moment anyway, rather to learn/update skills and have fun on it. For perspective I am an older guy with 40+ years of riding experience on all sorts of bikes. Thanks in anticipation, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 Corrosion inside the rims. Not usually visible from the outside but very common on this bike and if the spokes also need to be replaced, they are a very unusual Z design which can be a problem to find replacements for. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjw123 Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Motor is a strong simple unit & easy to overhaul Coked up middle box often overlooked & can hamper performance Can be opened up, cleaned / repacked.(welding job). Similar story with tailpipe. As with most old bikes, carb often worn out. Worth experimenting with something newer. Keihin PWK 28 or OKO. Porting job known to have good results. (but only if carried out by an expert on TY's) Footpegs way too high. Mounting plates can be carefully removed & rewelded lower down. Generator cover & clutch cover are Magnesium & can suffer from corrosion. (UK conditions) Rims corroding/delaminating internally due to constant moisture is a common problem with Japanese rims. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotors7 Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 If I remember rightly the 84 model had a gap at the base of the frame's headstock, the later model had it 'filled' in. At the time it was a known source of stress cracks and I can confirm that as mine went that way too. It just needed a good few welds to fill it in and give the area a bit more strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy53 Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 I would take a look at the market in Ontario, I remember having seen a few of them for sale at different price. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workshirk Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Wow, quick response guys, thanks. The wheels and frame have been blasted and powder coated so hopefully they’re in good condition, but I’ll have a closer inspection on the parts you mentioned. @Guy; there is one on Kijiji right now for $5,000😱 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thai-ty Posted May 15, 2022 Report Share Posted May 15, 2022 On 2/18/2022 at 3:30 PM, pjw123 said: Motor is a strong simple unit & easy to overhaul Coked up middle box often overlooked & can hamper performance Can be opened up, cleaned / repacked.(welding job). Similar story with tailpipe. As with most old bikes, carb often worn out. Worth experimenting with something newer. Keihin PWK 28 or OKO. Porting job known to have good results. (but only if carried out by an expert on TY's) Footpegs way too high. Mounting plates can be carefully removed & rewelded lower down. Generator cover & clutch cover are Magnesium & can suffer from corrosion. (UK conditions) Rims corroding/delaminating internally due to constant moisture is a common problem with Japanese rims. +1. Wot he said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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