315 fuel/oil

[retromlc]

 So pulled the trigger on one and thanks for everyone advise, owner says fully synthetic 50-1 with premium fuel, sound about right?

[Cube]

80/1 is what the manual is saying. I have been told that some people go for 100/1 which I wouldn't feel comfortable with. The prev owner of mine run on something around 50/1 or even more....and all it turned into a smoke machine, not very reactive engine and in detail it even affects your air/fuel mix. Personally I go for the 80/1 and a tiny extra blop of oil  This turned down the ratio in my tank immediately(as mentioned, 50/1 was before) and the engine is sooo much better on the throttle.

[barnesy]

I'd second that 80:1 is about right ... 

Interested to hear what you think of your 315 after actually riding one? 

[Cee-B]

I run mine at 60:1 simply because it is the mix I use in my other bikes and don't want to confuse matters. It runs well on it and is not too smoky.

[retromlc]

I got it today, 

Brakes are very weak dispite oversized front master cylinder assembly so gotta investigate that, took front pads out and the retaining Pin's are fully threaded screws, I would think that won't help with smooth pad movement... I would expect thread at the end and the main body of the pins to be smooth bore

On the plus the engine started 1st kick and idle smooth, no rattles as was told it has had a piston/crank bearings etc, gearbox also very slick, no slack on dog legs and headrace bearing so again good, all wheel bearings smooth, but it should be as I was promised it wants for nothing S3 titanium pipe is pretty.

A quick play out the front of the house and it feels nice.

I have a good feeling about it apart from the weak brakes F&R. 

And it's an 02 not an 03 as stated. Would I have bought it if looking at it??? I'd have knocked for the front brake could be oil contamination?/ Pads were a bit glazed

But yes for a 20 yr old bike it's pretty good not immaculate and is pretty clean and it's a montesa so I'm always happy about that.

Edited March 9, 2022 by retromlc

[Cube]

Have a ride and get the front brake really hot. Then cool down with water. Maybe do this twice. made a huge difference to my rear brake. had to do this with even brand new pads (not galfer pads).

[retromlc]

I could remove the discs and heat them in the oven the put them in cold water? Would it benefit doing it to the pads as well?

[Cube]

Don't overcomplicate it mate.  Heat up the entire brake and put some water on it. Just drive and have a bit of pressure on the brake.....does the job very well.

I am not sure if it is the disc or the pads.....or both. It worked fine. I have read about this in the net a few times. Heard about it the first times in my life (owned over 20 bike so far) related to trial bikes. Was doubting but gave it a go....and it worked.

My case: I have been sold ****ty sinter pads and had almost no brake force. tried this and now it feels almost like throwing an anchor. Also on a 315.

Edited March 10, 2022 by Cube

[retromlc]

Had a little play outside the house today, about 40 minutes to see if the bike has any issues, I took the advice and ride around with the brakes lightly applied then poured cold water on, and now I have usable decent brakes, a new throttle cable is on order as it's a bit kinked and I can't get any slack at the bars. Engine is nice, soft and should be good in the mud where the Repsol stuffers. Starts first kick.

There's some clutch drag even when warm so I'll swap the oil, what are people recommendations? 520 MLS? 

I have a non expert trial next Sunday to give it a proper run. 

 

[Cube]

I am glad that the pad seasoning trick worked for you as well.
Use ATF rated to Dexron III. Don't bother to try to get the elf one. Too expensive and sometimes hard to source. If you are not sure what is in there now.....maybe flush it. Poor in 480ml...which i still fine to run on and let it run until warm......then poor out and put in the req amount of 520. No need to buy too much oil

In regards to the the drag:
There are several ways to reduce the drag. I did not come up with the stuff mentioned below. I did a bit of research and these are apparently they ways to go:

1. If not already done, replace the steel plates with the perforated ones. This allows more oil flow while the clutch is pulled and seems to reduce the drag quite a bit.
2. Take out two of the six screws of the clutch. Of course opposite ones. But yes, that's exactly what I did and it got 60-70% better and experienced no other impacts on the function of the clutch. I still want to replace the steel plates at some stage....but put so much money into the bike already....my bank account needs a break. The clutch cover has a rubber seal, so no problem to just try it. it took me literally 5minites to make this adjustment. Seal can be reused. Just take it off carefully to not rip it.