Battery charging

[KRJ]

Dead battery on my 2022 TRS One R 250.

Ride it weekly, so it wasn't sitting long. Usually don't use the light so don't think it was left on (plus I think it turns off when bike is shut down?).

Have the battery box pulled apart - there's no real convenient place to hook a charger to, plus it's a PIA to get into. If this has happened once it will probably happen again, so thinking of a way to build an easy charging setup. Could a guy splice into the positive & negative cables where they come out of the box & solder on charging connections there? That would leave the water tight battery box intact.

Has anyone rigged up something like this? I'd prefer to not re-invent the wheel, so if anyone has dealt with this I'd like to hear about it.

[Glayne]

I did this with our snow plow ATV, cheap charger off Amazon (like 30$ Canadian), it came with wires and a connection that was easy to leave a pig tail for charging. I leave it charging when not in use. What type of battery does the TRS have? Some batteries like LIPO don't like to be left on charge.

[stevec]

This was discussed here (starting about half way down the page): https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/calling-out-trs-owners-questions-things-to-share.1288338/page-224

[KRJ]

Great find stevec!

I ended up pulling the battery "box" apart. Put a Li battery tester/charger on it, turns out it was fully charged (verified with a voltmeter, 13+V). Did a maintenance charge anyway. No love at the starter.

I just replaced the starter switch a month ago, so don't think it's that, but haven't had time to dig out the connection & check yet. Will check the starter bolt spoken of in the ADVRider post also.

[jer]

Have you seen this? TRS Workshop Guide about the battery and charging.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CfgC0HcEFnCTDmIOaTPFu84BI8-D8LiD/view

[KRJ]

Another great find! 

No, I didn't have that, thanks jer. Between those two resources there's no need to rig something up. 

Still no love at the starter though. Checked all connections near the starter - they're good. Disconnected the starter button and put a jumper in the plug to mimic the button - nothing. My mechanic is thinking a bad cell in the battery. Into the shop she goes later this week. In the meantime, at least the kick start still works.

Appreciate all the info and resources provided thus far. I'll post an update once she comes back from the shop. 

 

[CarlosEcha]

Hi everyone. Here is some help just in case you need to recharge the TRS Battery Pack with a charger. 

This is the official battery manual to do so.

You will need the TRS ADAPTER CHARGER BATTERY ELECTRIC START. 

Part no. 09016TR100  (No. 8 in the part diagram)

Charger type: Use only a ferric lithium-ion charger. See charger description “LiFePO4”

TRS Motorcycles do not sell full size bike chargers.

You can check all your parts numbers, manuals, racing parts and accessories here: https://trsmotorcycles.com/Descargas

See wiring diagrams and charging manual pdf.

Any more questions, please contact your local TRS dealer, or importer or write to info@trsmotorcycles.com
World wide TRS importers and dealers https://trsmotorcycles.com/Distribuidores

Thanks to all.

Carlos Echavarría S.

TRS Motorcycles Colombia

Charging TRS Battery.pdf

[KRJ]

Thanks for posting that wiring diagram Carlos.

My local mechanic traced the problem to a bad relay. On the bike, it's located inside the battery box at the top, above the cells. In the wiring diagram Carlos posted, it's the part at the top, located in square D4. 

Problem is there is no part number for it that we can find.  Anyone happen to have any info on it?

[Michael272m]

 I have found this relay as a P/N 240-54047 for a Yamaha YZF R1 1300 and as an ARROWHEAD: SMU6073. There are many very similar models, but most have the B (battery) and M (motor) terminals reversed.

[honda65]

Well I'm glad I found this thread. I have a 21 300 One RE, bought it about a year ago. The first thing I did (or tried to do) was to put a battery charger pigtail on it, just like I do with all of my other E-start bikes. So I pulled the battery box apart and discovered the battery pack and relay. But the pack did not have posts like a normal battery. Side note; officially the plastic box is part of the battery. I called the importer to see if he had any suggestions. He said I didn't need to charge it and it was impossible to do anyway. So I searched for a replacement. I found an Anti-Gravity battery that was soooo very close to fitting in the box. No go. Long story short, I pretty much destroyed the box and battery itself so I ordered a new one. $300

But all was not lost. I was determined to make this work. Since I butchered up the old box I could use it as a templet on how to run wires to the battery for the charger. The first attempt didn't work. I mean I got the wires in place but it didn't charge. I couldn't figure out why. Then I realized the relay was there and needed to be bypassed. This made a tight fit even tighter. Using the old box I carefully measured where to drill the holes needed and to check wire clearances. A little "finesse" in cramming the wires in there but it worked. I have a bullet connectors on both the positive cable and negative. I bought an extra pigtail and made matching connections. Now i can use my lithium charger anytime its needed. I am going to find some better, smaller connectors but the TRS uses some seriously thick wires for this. I want to look into replacing those as well if possible. I will take a couple of pics later

[lemur]

7 hours ago, honda65 said:

... the TRS uses some seriously thick wires for this. I want to look into replacing those as well if possible. I will take a couple of pics later

The 2 high tension wires that go to the starter motor?  Those wires would need to remain that thick or the batteries and relays need to be moved very, very close to the starter motor. 

[KRJ]

OP here.

I just got the bike back from my dealer this past weekend. Turns out my problem was broken wires. There are two groupings of wires coming out the back of the battery - the lower group had two broken wires within. Interestingly, the insulation of these individual wires were not broken, but the wires themselves were. My dealer is thinking they were in a position to have been pinched. A soldering repair with beefier wires and she's starting like she should.

Thanks for all the replies, glad to have learned how to rig up a charger if needed!

[honda65]

On 8/20/2023 at 7:50 PM, lemur said:

The 2 high tension wires that go to the starter motor?  Those wires would need to remain that thick or the batteries and relays need to be moved very, very close to the starter motor. 

Yeah, you are right. I did some research on that. But I have been frustrated with how the battery cables come out and in through the frame. Concerned I would have the same problem KRJ had. They fold and bind up. But, the 2023 (22?) have a revised cable routing. I'm glad I am not the only one who thinks the current way sucks. They route them down right under either the lower clamps under the steering stem. They of course run a new clamp that is beveled to not dig into the cables and then goes through a guide that holds them in place. This pretty much eliminates and binding. I have the guide coming and hopefully I can make it work on my 21. I also have the charging cable coming as well. Terribly expensive they are. both totally an insane $30.01 USD.

[lemur]

Interesting observation today;  TRS electric start model headlight was on when it was parked in the garage, had not been running for hours.  Turned the headlight switch to off and half the LED's went out, touched the starter button long enough for the starter motor to be in a new position and the headlight started acting normal again and controllable by the switch.  Some how the LED' were being fed through the starter motor.  2023 model so I think it is a characteristic of the starter model and not a defect as such, more like a bug.