tonyp884 Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Hey Guys, The rear brake pads on my 1997 Fantic Section (AJP) were worn out. I pressed the pistons back in and replaced the pads. Now, I have no rear brakes. I know that there must be aair in the system. However, I have been trying to get the air out of this system for hours! I got a vacuum bleder system, but that has not helped. Any ideas? Thanks, Tony P Charlotte, NC USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Front page tech section has the article written by Ron Milam, there is also a section in the Sherco manuals on the RYP site. 1. insure that there is slack in the adjuster rod. 2. pull the bleeder, and make sure that it is a pointed end, that there is not a ball end (with bearing in the caliper) remove ball if there is one, leave bleeder open 1/2 turn if it is the tapered type. 3. I would suggest removing the rear caliper from the axle / swingarm, and hanging it below with the bleeder being the lowest point. 4. Large syringe(cow type available from local farm store) with a piece of rubber 3/16 hose stuck on the end filled with brake fluid. and air bled off, hooked into the bleeder. Another syringe empty next to the resovoir with the top off to suck out extra fluid as it comes up. 5. Old brake shoes installed (to keep the new ones from getting soaked. 6. Here you will find some difference of opinion. I like to loosen the banjo on the caliper and push fluid through till no bubbles, then loosen the banjo on the master and do the same, then push more through to clear the line to the resovoir. Some folks do not want to brake the banjo's loose. For me, it has worked and been quicker in the long run. Some notes. Look for any high spots in the hose and try and get it straight. keep the bleeder low as you disconnect, as long as fluid is dribbling out, there is not air going in, if you turn it up, then put it back down, you have defeated yourself. If the fluid will not go through, 90% of the time, the actuating rod has been adjusted too far this blocks the return of the fluid, which wears out the brake shoes quick. The other 10% that ridiculously small hole in the Master cylinder has gotten blocked (it is so dang tiny you better have your good glasses on (I think it was a #80) Did I say that hole is small? I find it best to get the pucks out past where you want them to be and fully bled, then gently push them back in to where you can just barely get the caliper over the rotor. Send the kids away because a rear brake that fights you is one of the most frustrating things on a trials bike. They do make an air operated vacuum that holds about a quart, available from NAPA and Parts Unlimited (SBS brand) that I have been told works excellent, but bring about $200 smacks to the counter to walk away with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpaf Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Just as a small footnote and to save yourself all of this hassle in future, don't push your pistons right back when changing your pads. Push them back just enough so that with the new pads fitted there is just enough gap to push the disc in between them. This is because the pumping action required to bring your pistons back out can suck air in through the seals - the seals are there to keep the oil in rather than the air out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyp884 Posted March 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 ScorpaF and Al B, thanks for the help, got the brakes working GREAT today! New brakes, new tires, ready to go next week! Boy, bleeding these brakes are a PAIN! Tony P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.