New smaller rider looking for 1st bike

[sectionone]

I found the thread where a 250 2T enduro rider bought a 2007 Sherco 250 which is the same bike I ride. He ended up milling the head for more power while I find the power fine and about the same as the GG 250 I had.

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2007-sherco-250-what-compression-ratio.1629759/page-2

The KTM 300 is popular for hard enduro because you can lug it and a 300 Trials bike can be lugged even more so it is a good cross training tool. A 125 2T won't lug much. For high level trials the 125 is considered a stepping stone to the big leagues where you rev to the moon and dump the clutch.

[mrskywalker]

Ive got a set of pitbike boots that are like trials boots on flexibility and support as well a boots I use on my streetbike that are similar, just a bit stiffer sole for crash protection. I'll be going thru the bike the next few weeks and getting familiar with it(I do this with any used bike) and make sure bearings are greased, clutch fluid, brake fluid, oil, air filter, new grips, carb cleaned, fresh gas, etc. Actually just had the bike delivered a few minutes ago but probably a few weeks from even trying to ride it.

Im already better than most at our hill climbs as I do alot more clutch work than most of them so this is really just pushing my skills even further. If only I had one other person to practice with then maybe I could justify a more expensive tool as this is just something to practice when I have time, not a primary focus. Im sure once I get older and enduro bikes are too much I'll make the switch but thats probably 2-3 decades away(Im 33 right now)

[lemur]

Coming from enduro bikes I honestly can't see the motivation for someone wanting a diminutive displacement trials bike.  Riders coming from enduro sports even wear protective gear 👽.  You should be using the trials bike to develop your control skills and learning to ride the pegs instead of the saddle and bars.  Small weight and size rider on a trials bike is not a problem, bikes all weigh the same and you move around on them a lot if you a re doing it right.

Don't grease the wheel bearings, replace them, makes a huge difference in the bikes handling and braking performance and the bearings are as cheap as bearings come.  Buy the bearings from a local bearing supply and buy their best one if there is an option.

[mrskywalker]

14 minutes ago, sectionone said:

I found the thread where a 250 2T enduro rider bought a 2007 Sherco 250 which is the same bike I ride. He ended up milling the head for more power while I find the power fine and about the same as the GG 250 I had.

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/2007-sherco-250-what-compression-ratio.1629759/page-2

The KTM 300 is popular for hard enduro because you can lug it and a 300 Trials bike can be lugged even more so it is a good cross training tool. A 125 2T won't lug much. For high level trials the 125 is considered a stepping stone to the big leagues where you rev to the moon and dump the clutch.

Ive seen they make a 225 kit for this bike so maybe I can upgrade later if this bike proves reliable but when it comes to finding traction for hard enduro, its often with revs up on rocky and rooty climbs so I think the 125 would be good for that. Also my beta 300 is very low powered compared to most as it has no hit and I actually tuned it for a more linear pull with less snap of the bottom as I like that type of power more for where we ride. It feels more like torquey 200 with no powerband than the 300 ktm/huskies I have ridden.

[mrskywalker]

2 minutes ago, lemur said:

Coming from enduro bikes I honestly can't see the motivation for someone wanting a diminutive displacement trials bike.  Riders coming from enduro sports even wear protective gear 👽.  You should be using the trials bike to develop your control skills and learning to ride the pegs instead of the saddle and bars.  Small weight and size rider on a trials bike is not a problem, bikes all weigh the same and you move around on them a lot if you a re doing it right.

Don't grease the wheel bearings, replace them, makes a huge difference in the bikes handling and braking performance and the bearings are as cheap as bearings come.  Buy the bearings from a local bearing supply and buy their best one if there is an option.

Yep, I always order from vxb bearings. I was talking more about the suspension linkage and swingarm for greasing, if they dont need outright replacement. May do fork seals and oil too. The biggest thing will be if the shock needs to be rebuilt as these arent as easily rebuildable as typical enduro bike stuff(I have found some videos on how to though on these)

[lemur]

I service forks a Lot both my own and to teach other riders, once you've seen it done it's easy but messy.  The fork slide bushings are what you are trying to keep good and will require regular replacement.  Keeping the slide bushings good is key to keeping the fork seals good and there is no oil filtration so frequent oil change and cleaning will keep the whole fork lasting longer.  Aftermarket slide bushings frequently need to be file fitted, don't just slap them in expecting them to fit, they likely will be too tight at the gap.  Clean everything just as you would clean a gun.

[mrskywalker]

I meant the shock, the forks are super simple compared to enduro forks. Ive done alot of forks like these on pitbikes and bikes like my dr200 and even done custom valving with race tech emulators.

[lemur]

If I had a bad rear shock on my trials bike, I would replace it with a new one.  Around here the enduro riders drop that much money on having their brand new rear shocks modified by SSS

... I'm trying to imagine the Mississippi area riding terrain and it keeps starting out like a muddy Saskatchewan 🤔 post pictures once you can 👍

Edited November 7, 2023 by lemur
had to be said

[sectionone]

One thing about the gas gas pro engine is the main bearings are lubed by the transmission oil and if you hear any unusual noise, stop riding immediately. I sold my gas gas to a friend and a month later he kept riding it after a noise started and trashed the main bearing and other gears. 

The other oddity is getting six gears out of four. The patent has expired and no one else is using it for good reason.

[mrskywalker]

2 hours ago, lemur said:

If I had a bad rear shock on my trials bike, I would replace it with a new one.  Around here the enduro riders drop that much money on having their brand new rear shocks modified by SSS

... I'm trying to imagine the Mississippi area riding terrain and it keeps starting out like a muddy Saskatchewan 🤔 post pictures once you can 👍

Yea, Im a cheap guy if you havent noticed yet lol so if its even remotely possible to rebuild a shock thats what I'll do unless it goes bad then Ill get a new one.

 

Ill do you one better, here is a prolog video I did before tko at our local trails and you can see a few sections we ride. Its been unusually dry this year so not really any muddy spots but if it rains 1/2 inch typically takes a week to dry enough to ride without destroying the trails. You can go thru my channel and look for the Bluffs in the title to find a few other videos but dont have much of there. I do travel alot to race in LA and a sandy trail system in MS

Yo

[mrskywalker]

1 hour ago, sectionone said:

One thing about the gas gas pro engine is the main bearings are lubed by the transmission oil and if you hear any unusual noise, stop riding immediately. I sold my gas gas to a friend and a month later he kept riding it after a noise started and trashed the main bearing and other gears. 

The other oddity is getting six gears out of four. The patent has expired and no one else is using it for good reason.

Good to know about the bearings.

Thats interesting about the gears, I didnt realize that in my research about the transmission. Im an engineer so odd ideas interest me, too bad it was a poor implementation.

[sectionone]

Another thing to watch out for is where the airbox boot goes on the carb. Mine had an inner sleeve that can come off and suck in unfiltered air. Also crashing on the seat/airbox can pull the boot off. Here is the fix.

https://www.vmar.com/carb.html

If the skidplate is flattened and the rubber cushioning is deteriorated you can get metal to metal contact and crack your cases.

The silencer rubbing the tire is common with no easy fix.

[Tr1AL]

3 hours ago, sectionone said:

Another thing to watch out for is where the airbox boot goes on the carb. Mine had an inner sleeve that can come off and suck in unfiltered air. Also crashing on the seat/airbox can pull the boot off. Here is the fix.

https://www.vmar.com/carb.html

If the skidplate is flattened and the rubber cushioning is deteriorated you can get metal to metal contact and crack your cases.

The silencer rubbing the tire is common with no easy fix.

Silencer rubbing the tire fix is add spacer or washers at the rear shock mount bracket  to push the silencer away from the tyre and then file the spire U nuts clip down a bit for clearance to the silencer and also dent the silencer in the area near the clip to help clearance and cut off 3mm or so off the set screw so that it does not dig into the silencer

V MAR adaptor is the perfect fix to the bad OEM choice of fix for VHST dellorto designed airbox rubber fitment AS IN THE SHORT ILL FITTING DONUT RUBBER ?  to PHBL 26BS , you can get a more secure set up with this by fitting an orange silicone front pipe exhaust gasket between the V MAR adaptor and the dellorto PHBL 26 BS  also if you heat the airbox rubber with a heat gun and push it toward the right front  side of the airbox and place a standard wine bottle cork in the gap between them then leave it positioned  in there  it will hold the rubber in a good  position  to enable easy location between airbox and carb adaptor when fitting the airbox to the frame mounts. In the UK heat up the airbox rubber with a heat gun and force a LYNX deodorant tin into the airbox rubber outlet to get the correct diameter to fit  the rear of the carb , leave it in there until the airbox rubber is cold and then remove it  , The plastic it is made of shrinks with age but you can fix it with the heat gun and improvised tools like the lynx aerosol tin. 

Note do not leave the foam air filter in the airbox if using a heat gun on the airbox rubber or you may lose £15 or so in the ensuing melt down. 

Edited November 8, 2023 by Tr1AL

[Tr1AL]

4 hours ago, mrskywalker said:

Good to know about the bearings.

Thats interesting about the gears, I didnt realize that in my research about the transmission. Im an engineer so odd ideas interest me, too bad it was a poor implementation.

Not so sure about poor implementation  more like savages with no mechanical sympathy trashing great ideas. Light weight brings  with it fragility , the gearbox is designed for the max 300cc , you have a 125cc that is also the base for the 200 = 172cc and the 225cc conversion which uses the  TXT PRO 250cc barrel/jugg with 5mm machined off the top and utilizing the edition earlier model TX  motor 250 cc piston with the 16mm wrist/gudgeon pin in place of the pro 250cc piston with a 18mm  wrist pin hole to go with the  16 mm 125cc  connecting rod small end  also Standard compression 250 cc TXT PRO  head and 1mm aluminium head spacer with HYLOMAR blue sealant on a do it yourself job . As regards bad engineering search for Xiu R&D , he is a innovator with great ideas , unfortunately he failed to take into consideration your average beast and their ability to destroy things.

Pro F1 driver 78 laps and some scuffing to the tyres and floor plank . The BEAST no laps did not even set off ,  burnt the clutch out at the start line because of poor engineering  design.  

Edited November 8, 2023 by Tr1AL

[mrskywalker]

Well this bike does have the exhaust tire rub issue but that seems really easy to modify.

It seems there is quite a bit of debate about the trans but from what I see its more from the 4-5 gear transfer and being very deliberate with shifts but not forcing it. I dont think Ill ever use anything above 4th as my yard is quite small(1/8 acre) so its just a matter of making it a habbit of being intentional with shifts and leaving it. Like I said the transmission design is quite interesting but can see where it can be problematic with the multiple gears being engaged at certain times vs the typical 2 at a time in most dog boxes.