iank Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 Hi all, ive been ridding on the TXT for a few weeks now and loving it. I have a strange issue where it will be in first gear and I can be moving and all of sudden it stalls and locks up. The bike won't move if I pull the clutch in or not its like its stuck solid. After a bit of rocking back and forth I can get it in neutral and away I go a again. The first time I thought it was rider error. Its now done it twice today, the motor/transmission sounded rattly before both times. The rest of the day its sounded sweet. Its like its not engaged properly and jumps out of gear but instead of a false neutral it just locks up. Any common issues I should be looking at other than buying a Beta Evo !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 I know the first thing I would do is to shift it up one or two gears and see if the problem persists. 1st. is geared too low unless your average speed is a crawl and there is nothing ahead of you. Worn or bent shifter forks is ultimately what makes a transmission change gear on its own etc. Why; because the shifter forks are made out of relatively soft material compared to everything they run against and because you can bend a shift fork just by crashing on the shift lever. Fiber optic inspection of the assembly is a possibility and might avoid a complete tear down if the parts reveal no damage. Common issue to all motorcycle transmissions because most are built the same and it's not uncommon to drop them on the shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iank Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 I have used 2nd quite a bit but its never down it in 2nd always in 1st. It shifts as it should through the gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 2 minutes ago, iank said: I have used 2nd quite a bit but its never down it in 2nd always in 1st. It shifts as it should through the gears. If the problem only manifests in one gear range, that supports the likelihood of it being one compromised shifter fork. The forks and a shift drum with detents to hold everything in the correct aspect are what collectively hold the gears in alignment with each other, if the gear faces don't engage correctly the whole thing locks up. Third is the gear I'm most likely to wear out on a decent powered trials bike ymmv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr1AL Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, iank said: Hi all, ive been ridding on the TXT for a few weeks now and loving it. I have a strange issue where it will be in first gear and I can be moving and all of sudden it stalls and locks up. The bike won't move if I pull the clutch in or not its like its stuck solid. After a bit of rocking back and forth I can get it in neutral and away I go a again. The first time I thought it was rider error. Its now done it twice today, the motor/transmission sounded rattly before both times. The rest of the day its sounded sweet. Its like its not engaged properly and jumps out of gear but instead of a false neutral it just locks up. Any common issues I should be looking at other than buying a Beta Evo !! Stop using it. Turn off the fuel , plug the tank breather tube with a bolt or whatever to stop fuel spilling while you move it around , Take the fuel tank off. and lay the bike on its left side as flat as possible then take off the clutch cover with the water pump still attached to the casing and with a piece of wire approx 30 cm long both ends bent into hooks place one hook in the bolt hole closest to the kickstart shaft hole and pull the casing out of the way and hook the other end of the wire up near the head stock IE onto the clutch hose where it enters the frame. Remove the clutch bolt in the centre off the clutch ihe one deeply recessed , make sre the allen key you use is a very good fit or you will round off the allen fitting and be in a real mess. Remove the clutch complete then take off the clips on the shafts and remove the gears so you can see if any loose bits of metal are in there use a small magnet to fish around in any oil pools. DO NOT LIFT THE BIKE UP during this process or you will have 500cc of oil on the workshop floor as the gear box oil is at present in the other side of the casing. If everything in there is in one piece with no loose parts floating about then Put it all back together , When you tighten the casing bolts as soon as they snugg up that is tight enough do not tighten these too much or you will regret it. If you found no floaters in that side of the casing that would jam things up then you need to SPLIT THE CASES and check the other side where the gear clusters and shift mechanism reside if you are not mechanically minded and do not have much of a tool kit then best leave it to a trials dealer. Good luck. Do not use the bike until you fix this or you may cause more damage . Edited December 30, 2023 by Tr1AL 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 11 minutes ago, Tr1AL said: Stop using it. Turn off the fuel , plug the tank breather tube with a bolt or whatever to stop fuel spilling while you move it around , Take the fuel tank off. and lay the bike on its left side as flat as possible then take off the clutch cover with the water pump still attached to the casing and with a piece of wire approx 30 cm long both ends bent into hooks place one hook in the bolt hole closest to the kickstart shaft hole and pull the casing out of the way and hook the other end of the wire up near the head stock IE onto the clutch hose where it enters the frame. Remove the clutch bolt in the centre off the clutch ihe one deeply recessed , make sre the allen key you use is a very good fit or you will round off the allen fitting and be in a real mess. Remove the clutch complete then take off the clips on the shafts and remove the gears so you can see if any loose bits of metal are in there use a small magnet to fish around in any oil pools. DO NOT LIFT THE BIKE UP during this process or you will have 500cc of oil on the workshop floor as the gear box oil is at present in the other side of the casing. If everything in there is in one piece with no loose parts floating about then Put it all back together , When you tighten the casing bolts as soon as they snugg up that is tight enough do not tighten these too much or you will regret it. If you found no floaters in that side of the casing that would jam things up then you need to SPLIT THE CASES and check the other side where the gear clusters and shift mechanism reside if you are not mechanically minded and do not have much of a tool kit then best leave it to a trials dealer. Good luck. Do not use the bike until you fix this or you may cause more damage . I made a whole bunch of assumptions including he changed out the oil to inspect it for shrapnel. What part do you figure exploded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr1AL Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 1 minute ago, lemur said: I made a whole bunch of assumptions including he changed out the oil to inspect it for shrapnel. What part do you figure exploded? A chipped tooth on the kick quadrant or idler gear floating about in the clutch side is first stop as you obviously do not have to full strip the motor after that its loose bits floating about in the gearbox side it only needs to be some thing very small a chipped piece who knows , there is not a lot in a pro gearbox to cause this particular problem perhaps a problem in the shift drum , until its in bits I cannot think of anything that will lock the box solid like that other than loose bits in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 @iank have you changed the oil to inspect the drain plug magnet and used oil for signs of broken engine bits? Should be doing that regularly plus on the first sign of a transmission/clutch problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 On the pro it could be many things. What year are you talking about? It could be as simple as the top hat is bad all the way to broken gears or bearings on the gear shafts. Usually when the bart gear starts loosing pieces it does not lock up, but sounds like a rod knock. But yes, best to pull it apart. My son went over the bars in my front yard and strangely enough the chain wrapped around the front sprocket. I split the motor the next morning. 2 gears fell out! Good luck. You got any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iank Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 My next stop was to drain the oil and see if there is any shrapnel, failing that I'll strip the clutch side. If that fails I'll split the cases. Occasionally the kickstart feels suspect but again I put that down to user error or just the position of the stroke. Oh well at least I can give it a check over while I am in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iank Posted December 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) 13 hours ago, lineaway said: On the pro it could be many things. What year are you talking about? It could be as simple as the top hat is bad all the way to broken gears or bearings on the gear shafts. Usually when the bart gear starts loosing pieces it does not lock up, but sounds like a rod knock. But yes, best to pull it apart. My son went over the bars in my front yard and strangely enough the chain wrapped around the front sprocket. I split the motor the next morning. 2 gears fell out! Good luck. You got any help? it nearly chuck me over today and I thought what the hell!! Pulled the clutch in to roll the bike and it wouldn't move, it was like the clutch wasn't disengaging. After a bit rocking back and forth it was ok. Like I said the engine sounded like it was knocking a bit both times. The first time I just thought it was me but after the second time I am convinced the 2 were related. I started it again after the second time and knocking was gone. I obviously called it a day after that as I don't want to damage things any more. Ive built a few of my own engines for road racing so I should be ok to strip it all down. Although its been a few years since ive had a 2 stroke apart. Edited December 31, 2023 by iank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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