Assgas Posted June 9 Report Share Posted June 9 I think this is the only year with this caliper . It has this weird spring thing and no pin holding pads in The master has a bunch of play in the lever It's not pumped up . and is tight and hard to move the wheel I pry the pads back and the get tight again. I think I will replace it with a normal caliper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnoux Posted June 10 Report Share Posted June 10 No, TRS still use this Caliper on all the ONE R models. The symptoms sound like you have no freeplay at the master cylinder. Check the actuating pin on the inside of the lever. It MUST have some freeplay and not be applying ANY PRESSURE on the Master Cylinder piston when the lever is in it's relaxed position. Use the jam nut (10mm wrench) to loosen the pin, wind it out until you get some freeplay (and hence allow the opening of the port hole between the pressure line and the reservoir), and then lock it again with the jam nut. Check you now have that little tiny bit of freeplay as you pull the lever in, and it should self bleed, and now allow the caliper pucks to open properly when you release the brakes. If it is still binding check your brake pad wear. As the pads get right down the piston pucks in the caliper can get a bit cocked and may bind in the bore. If this is the case take the brake caliper off the fork leg (leave the hose connected), remove the old pads. - The pads just need to be slid sideways into the centre and they drop out, no need to even touch the spring at the top. Then clean around toe pucks, push them back home, and install new pads. Reinstall caliper, a few pumps of the lever to get the pads against the discs, and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assgas Posted June 10 Author Report Share Posted June 10 49 minutes ago, arnoux said: No, TRS still use this Caliper on all the ONE R models. The symptoms sound like you have no freeplay at the master cylinder. Check the actuating pin on the inside of the lever. It MUST have some freeplay and not be applying ANY PRESSURE on the Master Cylinder piston when the lever is in it's relaxed position. Use the jam nut (10mm wrench) to loosen the pin, wind it out until you get some freeplay (and hence allow the opening of the port hole between the pressure line and the reservoir), and then lock it again with the jam nut. Check you now have that little tiny bit of freeplay as you pull the lever in, and it should self bleed, and now allow the caliper pucks to open properly when you release the brakes. If it is still binding check your brake pad wear. As the pads get right down the piston pucks in the caliper can get a bit cocked and may bind in the bore. If this is the case take the brake caliper off the fork leg (leave the hose connected), remove the old pads. - The pads just need to be slid sideways into the centre and they drop out, no need to even touch the spring at the top. Then clean around toe pucks, push them back home, and install new pads. Reinstall caliper, a few pumps of the lever to get the pads against the discs, and you should be good to go. Did all that. I took pads out pumped pistons out a little cleaned them real good I cleaned were the pads fit in the groves. There is extra slack in the adjuster. I have a friend with a 22 oneR 250 and it came with the caliper with a pin just like new Gasgas I think that is nicer caliper I don't like the one I have with ears on the pad . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted June 10 Report Share Posted June 10 (edited) 7 hours ago, Assgas said: Did all that. I took pads out pumped pistons out a little cleaned them real good I cleaned were the pads fit in the groves. There is extra slack in the adjuster. I have a friend with a 22 oneR 250 and it came with the caliper with a pin just like new Gasgas I think that is nicer caliper I don't like the one I have with ears on the pad . I agree with you that brake model is a pos. Had one just like it seize up on only the outside pistons and it was braking only on one pad. Worked again after I used the hydraulics to break the stuck pistons free (with a bang) so assumed it was corroding on the inside and lost faith in it, bought a Beta brake to replace it and then ran into some issues with the size of the hydraulic fittings. I've never experienced this problem with the brake models fitted with a bolt or a spring pin to hold the pads in place. Speculating it was related to covid era production shortages just like the 'pink' rims and anodized parts that came on my 2021 TRS 300 e-start that were suppose to be 'red' but material shortages caused production problems with the anodizing process and were allowed to pass quality control due to covid times, that's my take on it. Edited June 10 by lemur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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