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Montesa 301 fan cycles


IBA4rt
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Good night. My 301 is the first 4-stroke trial bike I have owned. I'm somewhat lost. Once the bike warms up, the electric fan starts and is on 90 percent of the time. Even on the road going in 4 speed it stays on. When I stop and the engine is idling, the fan stops for a short time and starts again. The periods are very long and continuous. is this normal? The motorcycle has the coolant level, it does not expel it and there is no high temperature in the radiator hoses but the fan is running almost all the time.
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14 minutes ago, IBA4rt said:
Good night. My 301 is the first 4-stroke trial bike I have owned. I'm somewhat lost. Once the bike warms up, the electric fan starts and is on 90 percent of the time. Even on the road going in 4 speed it stays on. When I stop and the engine is idling, the fan stops for a short time and starts again. The periods are very long and continuous. is this normal? The motorcycle has the coolant level, it does not expel it and there is no high temperature in the radiator hoses but the fan is running almost all the time.

 It's a trials bike ment to go slow. Road speed does NOT cool it down. The fan will run most of the time, exempt in winter. What year is your bike? I luve my 301.

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1 minute ago, lineaway said:

 Es una bicicleta de trial diseñada para ir despacio. La velocidad en carretera NO la enfría. El ventilador funciona la mayor parte del tiempo, excepto en invierno. ¿De qué año es tu bicicleta? Me encanta 

My 301 is 2024. I know it is a trials bike. I have had several, all 2 strokes. I tried cooling it on speed 4 today to see if with air flow the fan worked less. but no, only when it is idling does it rest but in very few intervals. 90 percent the fan is working. It seems a bit excessive to me but since I have no experience with this bike I don't know if it is normal. What surprises me most is that once it starts it barely stops and the cycles are very long. is it normal?

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If you're worried and want to check it out, measure what temperature it is running at. A thermal camera is great for this.

If the cooling fan duty cycle is more than about 50%, then I would be checking coolant level, restrictions to airflow through the radiator and if the fan is running the right direction.

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Well, it seems that after changing the fuel as recommended, for 98 BP fuel, the motorcycle runs better, maintains a stable idle and now the fan cycles are more regular, the electric fan stops more times and the work cycles are more shorts. From what I see, this bike is very critical of gasoline and today there are many gas stations with ****ty and bad fuel. From now on, only BP. I have measured the temperature with a laser and the cylinder head never exceeds 65 degrees, the cylinder reaches 70 and the water pump cover is above 60 or 65 degrees, as is the radiator. I made these measurements with at least 10 fan cycles so it seems that everything is correct. Anyway, I'm going to use Fulch Silkolene Mac Cool coolant, which I always use on my motorcycles and it works better.

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hahahaha here in Spain there are many gas stations from different networks, and no matter how much they say 98 octane, you can see that they are of poor quality. They have recommended BP or Repsol to me, which come from the same place as they have informed me. It seems that at the moment everything is requested.

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I ran high test pump gas in 4RT's for nearly 2 decades and never had carbon deposits anywhere near what your plug chop shows, occasionally added 50% Sunoco GT260 for better performance and they definitely run better and cooler with higher test fuel, but never found 98 to be a requirement.  Based on my mid winter riding experiences the fan should cycle for short periods even in sub-zero riding temps.

... race fuel here costs about 7$ per litre so motivation to run cheaper pump fuel is considerable.

Edited by lemur
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I live in the Canary Islands and here there are still about 25 or 26 degrees during the day, so I understand that the fan should work harder. Coming from 2t, I thought it was excessive until I checked the engine temperature. My bike came limited and when I put the exhaust open with the injection body that it had originally, the P61, the bike worked very poorly, it stopped and it smelled like gasoline. I have mounted the P71 body, which is the one that Honda indicates to delimit the 301 2024. The bike with this ECU was already working well but I suppose that the spark plug, as I posted in another thread, was already charred from running it with the other ECU. I suppose it was a combination of bad gasoline and a damaged spark plug. With the tank with BP 98 and a new spark plug, it works perfectly and the fan cycles are now more regular. I suppose that when the temperature drops more, here it doesn't drop below 15 degrees, the fan will act less.

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The 250/260 were very easy to keep running. My son has a 2018 300rr which has required very little attention. My 2021 301  has been a pain, but I am also picky. 

Edited by lineaway
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7 hours ago, lineaway said:

The 250/260 were very easy to keep running. My son has a 2018 300rr which has required very little attention. My 2021 301  has been a pain, but I am also picky. 

Exactly the same thing happens to me, I have a friend with a 2017 300 RR who barely maintains it, he doesn't take much care of the bike and I think he has never adjusted the idle speed in his life and the bike runs like a clock and at the lowest idle speed. than mine. These 301s from what I see, for whatever reason, which I suppose has to do with the 3-segment piston and increased compression, are much more critical.

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