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OSSA suspension linkage


lotus54
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Yes, Explorer and TR are the same. 

 The grease fittings are there- I used flush ones that use a ‘needle’ type end. Three of them could have ‘regular’ zerk fittings, but the one for the main pin does not really have enough room.

Before I sell any, I want to make sure everything is just right. I have made some little mods.  I wanted to keep as thick as possible for strength, but also need to have clearance for the Ohlins or the Olle dampers since the springs are a bit different in size. 

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Ok thanks. This suspension set up using these brass push fit bushings do they have any lateral movement because when my bike is on its stand i can slightly lift the wheel or the rear of the swing arm and i can feel a tiny amount of lateral movement. I have replaced the bushings and greased everything an bought a new pin from Birketts and there is definite movement from the pin area. Ta

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Original is steel w/teflon coating. This has the same except middle ‘main’pin that is now needle bearing. 

When I have final fitting done I will let you know. I have to make another bit of a change to clear Ohlins damper- the Ollé is smaller diameter. But that is what initial testing is all about. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have the slightly modified version installed. I very slightly changed some tolerances (the place making them follows better than I expected). And had to change the ‘dogbone’ to similar thickness to stock, although a bit taller. (Would not clear Olins). 

I really like the almost flush grease fittings.  They work really well and easier to access. Just require a very inexpensive adapter. 

Works great!

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Edited by lotus54
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Nice. Is there any play in this set up or from the factory. When my bike is on the stand with the suspension relaxed if i go to lift the bike back off the stand using  the wheel the wheel  will slightly lift before the bike does. I have pinpointed the slack and replaced the pin and all the bushes but there is still play in that area. Is there play from new with the factory setup. Thank you. 

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Posted (edited)

No play in this setup.  But certainly if any pins/bushings/bolts worn it will have play. 

I would have liked to use needle bearings for front pivot, but doesn’t look like enough room. But the most stressed one is the middle one (I think) and that is now needle bearings. 

 

Also check the bottom damper bushing

Edited by lotus54
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Hello Mark. All new parts and never been ridden. The damper bush is tight. That is why i asked about you Ti set up and maybe the tolerance is better than what i have. 

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21 hours ago, lotus54 said:

Those are the places to check (and upper damper).  Can you see where the play is? 

  This does have very good tolerances.  .0005”

Yes i did mention it in an earlier post. I can feel that the play is in the 20mm pin which is new and the bushes are new. 

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58 minutes ago, larro said:

Yes i did mention it in an earlier post. I can feel that the play is in the 20mm pin which is new and the bushes are new. 

OK, I forgot that. 

  There is no play in the 20 mm pin (which is smaller now, since it has needle bearings, but much stronger material)

 

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Hi, a few mod I used to do with the linkage "back in the day" on the 2011 and 2013 models.

       This consisted of drilling the shocker linkage axially 2.5mm diameter (highlighted in red) from the very end through both the pin bores and tapping the end and fitting an m3 grubscrew with some pipe sealer to plug it off. This hole passes centrally between the four bushes in the linkage, this was then cross drilled into at an angle and the start of the hole squared off and tapped to suit a m6 grease nipple or zerk depending what side of the pond your from!This allowed both pins in the shocker link to be lubricated without any spanner work. A flexi hose on a grease gun and with a bit of practice and you could get quite perficient at locating the nipple on the link.( Hair around it comes to mind)😮

      I used to chamfer the two swing arm links as highlighted in red and fitted an o ring to each of them,this needs to be tight around the boss so it pulls into the chamfer and against the shocker link to keep the dirt and water out. The o ring in the photo is only for illustration purposes only as thats all i could find. Sorry I dont have  any potos of any modified ones. The link pins that went into the swinging arm were cross drilled and a slight grease groove ground on them. To lube them the m6 screws were removed and a m6 nipple (zerk) screwed in and a couple of shot of greased applied to to lube them and flush them out and the fitting removed and the original screw refitted

Regard Mick

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