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rugrat12
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10 minutes ago, KeithNewby said:

Managed to get the flywheel off despite not having the correct puller. These are what’s inside. The bottom of the windings had a spring loaded plate which may act as a magnetic points system? 

And you would be correct, you are looking at the coil pickup or signal generator to control spark, that pickup generates a small charge of electricity when the magnets pass by it, that electric charge goes to your ignition control module where it will be used to send a whole bunch more electricity towards the ignition coil and spark plug.  

Coils have measurable resistance unless they are burned or shorted, then they will show the wrong resistance or no resistance at all aka no continuity.  You can meter test the coils, meter test the connections and wires, you can meter test the power outputs once you have it somewhat running, but that part #4 the ignition control module is going to be by far you biggest problem to test or replace.

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On 1/11/2025 at 2:44 PM, lemur said:

And you would be correct, you are looking at the coil pickup or signal generator to control spark, that pickup generates a small charge of electricity when the magnets pass by it, that electric charge goes to your ignition control module where it will be used to send a whole bunch more electricity towards the ignition coil and spark plug.  

Coils have measurable resistance unless they are burned or shorted, then they will show the wrong resistance or no resistance at all aka no continuity.  You can meter test the coils, meter test the connections and wires, you can meter test the power outputs once you have it somewhat running, but that part #4 the ignition control module is going to be by far you biggest problem to test or replace.

Number 4 on the wiring diagram is the handlebar switches,  of which only 1 wire input ( the one attached to the coil ) is relevant as the kill switch. 
This system has no ignition module like a traditional cdi set up which is why it’s so different and awkward to fathom.
I think I’ll send it to motoplat for testing. 

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Guessing you don't have access to electrical test equipment.  If testing involves shipping in both directions or they just say it is faulty on receipt, it is generally best to just buy a new part.  If your bike has no black box to control the ignition that means the coil and associated electrics will be even easier to meter test.  Best luck with your repair 👍

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