Loose Bruce Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 HI All, Does anyone know how to remove the flywheel on the Hiro engine. It seems to be in two parts. Does it need a special puller? I am trying to get to see the ignition system to see if it is set correctly, which leads to me next question. How do you set it?? Thks Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonH Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 (edited) Watch the first video in this article. Sammy Miller takes the flywheel off himself. He just uses a strap holder and a wrench. No puller. He also briefly mentions how to adjust the ignition. Hopefully you can see what he does. Good luck! https://sammymiller.co.uk/sammy-miller-mbe-unveils-newly-restored-miller/ Edited February 4 by RonH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamferret Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 check the ignition using a strobe. They don't normally alter, but obviously someone could have built it up and hot checked the ignition. The system is identical to the suzuki singles of the same era. The flywheel is in 2 pieces as it has an extra weight added for trialing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 I watched the video, but it looks as though Sammy had previously loosened the flywheel, hence it came off so easily. It would also appear that a Motoplat ignition system was installed, which is different the what i have on my bike. It is not a 2 part flywheel. So I am going to make up a removal plate with centre bolt to remover the flywheel. When I manage to start the bike it is blowing back through the carb, which makes me believe the timing needs adjusting. Not sure if it needs to be advanced or retarded. It may even be some form of pre ignition. It could also be a faulty CGI box. The list is endless. I will check the Suzuki system, should I need to replace the existing. As for using a strobe, would I not need to find some timing marks on the flywheel? If all else fails then Sammy Miller lives 20 minutes down the road from me, so I may ask his advice. Thks Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 I just spoke to Sammy on the phone, and he seems to think that the flywheel has an inner threaded section for a screw-in type puller. Will check tomorrow to see if the Maestro is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 18 minutes ago, Loose Bruce said: I just spoke to Sammy on the phone, and he seems to think that the flywheel has an inner threaded section for a screw-in type puller. Will check tomorrow to see if the Maestro is correct. If it is a Suzuki part that is exactly how it is done, there is an inside thread immediately around the perimeter of the locking nut and that should be visible on close inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 No such luck ! I can only assume that I need to make a flat plate puller, drill with 3 holes to match the threaded holes in the flywheel. Then drill a centre hole, weld on a nut, then ues a bolt to push to flywheel off. This maybe easier said than done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256712780443?_skw=small+flywheel+puller&itmmeta=01JKBH332BJZYE5KQE2T96X3NY&hash=item3bc5462a9b:g:aBcAAOSwW4tnMrPw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlhG732%2BupRwY3DOA5CxHX1jByJijKdseRzyg7CYmylWbKCoQ6QG9EoffBidjWULoTqjwgxTAsxEtva%2BDwRptQbmf6MNNVGYSLzeKYzzgBjosmVVPwfbnya6b%2B9zA2uy6o4iv0xKv67AFih8BfP8pI0%2BEK6I7bQr50oUcXigLiHMfaqt1RnUm%2FY5UysovtqZzwXJvwVR534pfWrVWiXnr3nCdS6ts6yBN7O6QpH45Eyll3JEjpPPGNns23hfSWAkdg5LeOKfLG0P8yizo1%2BS3uQgsEqML91sblGw13Qb4bRRw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrrGM8Zpl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 Good News, bad news. So, I managed to get the flywheel off with my homemade puller, only to be met with a corroded and dirty set of electrics, but even worse are the loose set of magnets. They have all shuffled around, not leaving a gap in between. The corrosion has obviously weakened the original glue. Simple to clean and re-glue, if you know where to glue them. I guess they are to be equi-spaced around the inside of the flywheel, but where? I would think they have to be correctly positioned in relation to say the keyway. Does it make a difference if you just simply set them equi-spaced. Maybe not. There does seem to be a mark where one magnet may have been, so if they are equi-spaced, I can position the other three. Bit of a risk, as you only get one chance to get it right! Does anyone have a picture of said flywheel with magnets installed, or any advice. Maybe put them in with some good double sided tape or silicon. Once I find the correct position, glue them in properly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamferret Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 they do appear to be equi-spaced. I think you will have to check timing after fixing them. You will need a dti to find top dead centre and then the required firing point so that you can mark the flywheel if it isn't already. The copper coloured coils are just for lighting and should be removed if you are not thinking of adding lights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konrad Posted February 9 Report Share Posted February 9 What a mess! I don't envy that job at all. When reinstalling the magnets you must alternate North and South poles around the perimeter like this: N-S-N-S. You can check it with a compass. I don't think it matters if an N or an S goes by the keyway. But to be safe, maybe teamferret could check his? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamferret Posted February 10 Report Share Posted February 10 No, it does not matter, have rotated one on its centre and randomly put one on a villiers engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 10 Author Report Share Posted February 10 Hi Guys, It worked perfectly. I did a temporary "sticky tape" test and the engine started 2nd kick. I will now use the permanent glue. Thks Bruce 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loose Bruce Posted February 14 Author Report Share Posted February 14 Hi Chaps, My next question please! Does the clutch have its own oil bath or does it share the gearbox oil? It looks to be the latter, because I cannot find a clutch drain or level plug. The bike manual is a bit vague. It just states that the "gearbox" should have 900cc of SAE 80. Thks Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 You have not had the other side apart yet? I bet it has shared oil between the clutch and gears and the first hint is the volume of 900cc (that's a lot) SAE 80 gear oil is plenty heavy on the viscosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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