Sherco Dogbone Needle Bearing Sizes?

[kevin j]

Anyone know if the Sherco uses similar needle bearings as the older GG? GG96 & 2000 uses HK1516 sealed, which are I bbelieve 15 mm OD.

I am going to make a small tool to press bearings out & in, to make it easier than the vise and sockets, or sockets and threaded rods. Wanted to make it fit the GG we have now, and hopefully Sherco & Montesa if I need some sort of OD adaptors.

kcj

[copemech]

I seem to recall the sizes are listed in the Sherco parts book. They are different at each end!

[titanium]

Go to www.rypusa.com

And look up the parts book under sherco.

There is a breakdown of all the suspension parts.

The bearing numbers are all listed there.

[copemech]

Is there something I missed here or is that what I said or what I thought I said or did you say something else?

You guys have WAY too much time on your hands, has the snow melted yet?

[copemech]

The more I think about this, I suppose I need to expound more and tell you how to do this like a true PRO!

First, unless you are still snowed in and cannot ride anyway, you need to order more parts than you need to start so that you have everything on hand that you may require to do the work. Minimum 4 bearings and 4 bushings or spacers, and be sure to get a jug of that fancy BLUE MAXIMA waterproof grease! It is the finest!

Second, once that you have messed around for about an hour trying to get those things out without knowing the tricks or reading the instructions comes time for the special tools.

Thirdly, you must have in your possession one of those highly finished and very expensive sets ov SNAP-ON deep sockets that you can match to the ID and OD of the bearings, of which you have found by now that only two of the four are worn and require replacement, but you are gonna go ahead and replace them all anyway because you already have it apart!

Fourth, Take a nice BRASS hammer and beat the **** out of those things in a manner that drives them out of the dogbone and into the other larger socket on the recieving end. Forget about all that Jon Stoodly BS about heating them up and the thermal coeficient of expansion of whatever, all that does is smell up the house. They will knock out easily!

Fifth, place the dogbones on a flat surface and gently tap in the new bearings to get them started into position, then proceed to beat thim into position flush with the sides of the dogbone using the same or slightly larger very expensive SNAP-ON socket that you used to drive them out! Once again, forget about all that Stoodly BS like placing bearings in the freezer as your ambient temperature there is probably sufficient This happens easily if your hammer is of adequate weight, if not, get a bigger one!

Sixth, pack everything with two times the Special Blue Grease that you think you actually need so that everything is sealed up tighter than a duck's ass and no water can get in to foul(joke)the new bearings and bushings.

Seventh, reassemble the same way it came apart, if you remember how, and you are done! You might actuallt put a drop of BLUE locktite on that lower shock bolt when you go back together with it so that it will be tougher coming out next time!

Hope that helps!

[atomant]

Fourth, Take a nice BRASS hammer and beat the **** out of those things in a manner that drives them out of the dogbone and into the other larger socket on the recieving end. Forget about all that Jon Stoodly BS about heating them up and the thermal coeficient of expansion of whatever, all that does is smell up the house. They will knock out easily!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Agricultural engineering at its finest !! Why use a brass hammer if you are going to abuse it like that like it makes a difference

[alan bechard]

Love it Mark,

We are going to make you an Airframe Mechanic before it is all over.

We had alternating shop logo's that I think you would appreciate.

Airframe shop,,, Beat it to fit, paint it to match.

Or, Airframe shop, we may not be good, but man are we slow.

then of course we have the home shop for profit saying.

I offer three things, high quality, low prices, fast service, you may pick any two....

So do you know what the HK stands for?

Oh, and added on edit on a more serious note for the guy doing this if they are still reading and have not said, man, this dude is an idiot, well, they probably said that anyway and kept reading.

RYP has the driver set available to do these bushings, they work slick.

Double edit, sorry Kevin did not realize it was you asking, yep the number sounds right, as said before the HK numbers are in the parts manual available online.

Edited April 14, 2006 by Alan Bechard

[copemech]

Al, I have no idea what HK stands for other than the bearing number.

The only other HK I know of is a German made assault rifle. I used to use one for deer hunting!

[atomant]

HK is just the designation for the bearing type being a drawn cup needle roller bearing

Why they use the letters HK for it I am unsure.

[alan bechard]

Trivial pursuit kind of thing, not trying to take away from Kevin's post.

I had the opportunity to visit the INA / FAG factory in Germany over christmas and visit with a 2nd cousin, that lived with us while attending University.

Anyway, I showed him the numbers, talking about the dogbone bearings and what could be done better, what could be sealed etc. and he was just oh, yes, that would be a

Hulse

Kessel (spelling is wrong I think)

It made perfect sense to him, Took me a while to think about what it meant.

Hulse would be shell, or seed, or husk, I think shell would be the closest in this instant. on edit the U should have umlats as well.

Kessel means Drawn or Deep drawn, or maybe extruded. Normally referring to Steel. on Edit, I had this word wrong it is Ka (with Umlats) fig Kafig.

So when you see the HK, it means that it is a shell bearing that has a drawn steel shell.

I guess I found it interesting because I never knew, and it made a lot more sense when it was explained to me. I learned an awful lot of bearing terminology (and technology) came from Germany.

Oh, and as to better replacements, he said not really cost effectively. There was all sorts of things that could be done, but that was what they called a "stock" or "catalouge" bearing that was built to be a middle of the road, best for many applications bearing. He said to keep them clean and greased and they would last an awful long time......

Edited April 18, 2006 by Alan Bechard

[kevin j]

tks all.

some background: I was going to get a spare set of links, just change out and service them later, but the two bikes we have are differnt links, but same bearings.

Stock is HK (this is used by several mfrs as a prefix, alan's explantation seems spot on) but 1512 (12mm wide) with separate lip seals. My past dealer found some 1516 2RS wider, with seals on each end. But they aren't great seals, and there isn't enough room with the wider bearings for the original lip seals.

Bushings have to be from GasGas. Even with frequent greasing, it seems the bushing corrode/discolor with surface damage long befre the bearings wear out. So I am trying to find a better seal arrangement. If I can find better seals, and cheaper bearings, I won't mess with cleaning thoroughly and the time required. Just press out the old, push in the new andmove on with life.

I have found some 14 with RS, and a double lip TCM seal in 3 mm wide. That package may give 3 separate sealing surfaces, and a wider bearing than stock.

Bearings $5 each and seals at 1.50 each. Total for two links, both ends, is $32.

Stock parts were about 70, but mainly I want better sealing and less often to have to service them.

Will see how it goes togehter and keep you posted.

I use sockets and hammer lightly. If that doesn't do it easily, a length of threaded rod with small socket on one end, bigger socket on far end. Pull it through. With care, some of the pressed out ones can be reused in emregency if there aren't spares, or if one gets damages.

so my thought was to make a fixed tool like a small drill press vice that is faster to press. eliminate all the loose parts and patience. The dirvers still need a hammer tactic. and I'd like to have this tool fit both GG and Sherco. tks for ref, duh, I should have thought of RYP site. excellent service and documntation.

things come apart easy, but I am glad I had the other bike there to remember how to go back on. link offsets, which hole in triangle plate, etc.

what snow? we've had 6 easy winters. but, frost and snow just gone in laste few weeks. ice out of lakes a couple weeks back.

I am in southern MN, but those of you who have been to Duluth WR know why most of the section work gets done in the fall.

kcj