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Softening The Power.


cota kid
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How long have you been riding your Sherco? Perhaps you should give it a few more months before messing with the power.

When I started with trials I bought a 2001 Scorpa and my riding buddy bought a 2001 Sherco. I loved my bike and hated his. Mine had nice controlled power while his had a snap that made me think it would rear up and throw me off, and it did once or twice.

But after a few months I came to covet his snappy power. Advancing the timing on my Scorpa brought it almost up to the level of his Sherco.

On the other hand, it is easy enough to retard your timing and then advance it back in a few months - maybe it will save you from getting thrown off.

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Starting in 02 they advanced the timing for more snap for riders like Jarvis and experts but it can be a handfull for most riders. The bikes will also kickback like a mofo and it's really best for most to retard the timing. The 04 2.9 is very powerfull with the new ignition and exhaust, but retarding the timing and using the slow turn throttle turns the thing into an absolute tractor and the grip in wet conditions is improved so much more, the bike can be ridden much slower, stalls less, much smoother off idle but still has a lot of power in the mid and top range, but is just plain easier to ride. It also won't kick back anymore. If you don't want to use a strobe light just turn the stator plate counter clockwise, all the way at first. This will give a really good indication of the benefits, and then can go halfway to fine tune or whatever.

Like triple 6 said just go to the Sherco or RYP site to see the Waynemeister's manual on how it's done.

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Retarding the timing on the 2.9s really is the most sensible thing for most people :D especially on the 04s, as the slow throttle tube didn't slow the bike down nearly as much as did the 03.

Using the right tools, air impact wrench with compressor and a flywheel puller the job takes 15 minutes, just did it to the 2.9 demo bike yesterday and tried it out. The temps warmed up above freezing and it was very slippery, but the bike got better grip in worse conditions than it did when drier. This is all down to the power coming on so much softer right off, but not only that it can be ridden slower without stalling. I can't say enough how docile it makes that motor for the majority of riders, and also how easier it makes the bike start, no more of those wicked kick backs when starting.

Just a tip, when removing shifter, take the 19mm socket used to remove flywheel nut and put it between the top of the chain tensioner and under the swingarm. This will leave enough slack in the chain to push it up while wiggling the shifter off (move rear wheel so the narrow portion of the chain link matches up to the top edge of the shifter where it clamps on the shaft, and it will come off easily). There's no need to undo the master link and remove the chain.

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Sherco666, what model year are you trying the 9 tooth sprocket on, I like a low first gear for the stream sections gives old timers like me more time to think where to go next.

Knock it up a cog for streams Ishy.

That way you don't have time to think about it. Just open the throttle when it starts looking dodgy. Usually works for me :D

Gaz Hinton

Ward 33

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Ha but the idea is to clean em, I rode every single section in first gear in the 02 ssdt on the 125, including the big ups at witches, trotters, and tramway, cleaning tramway, two for the whole group at trotters, and two dabs at witches.

You youngsters take everything too seriously :D

What's a clean <_<

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Ishy - a word of warning - having too much time to think whilst riding a bike is a very bad thing indeed - I used to be fine on a 10T. Then I converted to a 9 and found myself with loads of time to worry about lifes woes. The wife's left me, kids are going crazy and the cat's pregnant- stick to a ten with full advance-its best a man can get.

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