lordlanky Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Hi ScorpaGuys, Just bought a SY250 2004. Gorgeous. The clutch lever didn't quite reach to the bars when bought. After the first ride, it did. And then the clutch didn't work. What had happened is that the push rod inside the slave cylinder (behind the engine) has pushed out a little. The circlip was grating along (what looks like) a thread. Having called Nigel Birkett's (rather helpful) mechanics, then taken the subframe off, then the middle section of the exhaust, I was able to push it all back in. I had to bend the retaining circlip straight. I can now adjust it so that the clutch lever reaches the bar, but then the "bite" is in the wrong place. So I've put it back such that the clutch lever doesn't reach the bar. I'm a little confused as to why this should be - is this "normal" SY behaviour? And even more confused as to why it should "pop" through in the first place - I'm not normally that ham-fisted... ;-) Come on back with thoughts! LordLanky. ps. You can see what I'm talking about here - Part No. 3160: Scorpa Parts Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnoux Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 This would probably have been caused by overfilling the fluid reservoir at the mastercylinder.(the previous owner giving it a once over to sell it, no doubt!) If there is no room for the fluid to expand into , then the only way is out! (so to speak) This is the basic premise of how a hydraulic brake system works, but room must be left in the reservoir or there will be strife! Basically the fluid forces the slave piston out beyond it's area of operation, forcing the circlip to fail. This is why the lever had the strange action to start with. Fill the Mastercylinder so the fluid is partially up the sight glass on the front - DO NOT FILL RIGHT TO THE TOP. The clutch action can be modified with the adjuster on the slave (Part# 3150b) in conjunction with the adjuster on the clutch lever. Hope this is of some help. Arnoux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 I've had a simliar problem on my SY. The clutch bite point kept moving so I've been adjusting the plunger to make it longer. I change the plates and springs but still the same. I can't adjust on the engine as it's as far as it can go and has been like that since I bought the bike from new. Any ideas? There's no bleed nipple so bleeding is worthless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Check to see if the bottom actuating arm that is rotated to engage clutch is not cracked at the weld and flexing, giving the unstable clutch feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnoux Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 (edited) boofoot you don't need a bleed fitting! Twist the Mastercylinder on the bars so the reservoir is level. Take the Fluid reservoir cap off. Make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir, and that the two (2) small holes are not showing in the bottom of the reservoir. Now pump the lever SLOWLY. You do not need to stroke it in all the way, just small, short , slow movements. You will probably see a bunch of extremely small air bubbles coming to the surface. If you are pumping too hard you will get a squirt of hydraulic fluid rocketting up into the stratosphere. (have a rag handy!) As you are slowly pumping the lever, flick the hose with a finger on your free hand to dislodge any small trapped bubbles. This will bleed the system if done correctly. Take your time, and be gentle. IT DOES WORK! Always use fresh, clean fluid. And when you put it back together make sure you don't overfill the fluid reservoir! Arnoux Edited May 31, 2006 by arnoux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordlanky Posted May 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks for super fast response Arnoux. I had played with the adjustments top and bottom. I've just had another "play", checking the fluid level in the reservoir. (incidentally there is no window on the clutch master cylinder) All looked good, as detailed. No cracks in the actuator arm. I bled the system as described, and no bubbles appeared; despite spending 20 minutes tapping and moving the pipe! Whilst the lever still doesn't reach the h'bar, I'm not that fussed as when riding with one finger on the clutch, the rest of my fingers are struck before it hits this physical stop mentioned in first post. I'm set to ride it in my first trial at the weekend, and will let you know if I suffer because of it! Cheers again, Lord Lanky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ned kelly Posted June 11, 2006 Report Share Posted June 11, 2006 Well! How did it go? Old Lanky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordlanky Posted June 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 Well! How did it go? Old Lanky! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> EVERYONE that had a fiddle with the clutch reckon it was wrong; there was a LOT of "air sucking" going on, much to my amusement! That said the trial was really dry, and as a result it was one of those tight, technical trials that I prefer. I ride the inters, and usually end up last or at least in the bottom three. I was in the top ten! I beat people that are usually 10-20marks above me... I was quietly impressed. I still think something could/should be done about the clutch, so I'll make some more adjustments; it's not gonna stop me riding though! Cheers loads one and all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 I was in the top ten! I beat people that are usually 10-20marks above me... But not me Glad to hear your SY is going ok for you to ride it, i too thought the tight and twisty trial was good, as the clutch was very different to my old GG200 so it got me used to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted June 13, 2006 Report Share Posted June 13, 2006 What you need is a repair kit. BVM sell them, their web site is here. The psiton that has popped all the way out has a small seal on it that sits below a ridged washer. The seal is sure to be nicked and letting air in. The kits are about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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