qwkdtsn Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 (edited) Now that I've basically figured that the clutch is indeed on the right hand side of the bike, I want to take the clutch out to measure it (for the 9.75 measurement) and possibly sand/beadblast the plates. The clutch has been pretty heavy, pumping up my arm and making my clutch finger so tired that I start getting sloppy. Compared to my friend's 01 TXT it's way heavy. Anyway, I see that the water pump housing, with the two coolant hoses, is on top of the clutch cover, meaning I have to take off the water pump housing before I can take off the clutch cover. I have the bike on its left side so I don't need to drain the new ATF I put in a couple of days ago and was hoping that this was an easy job. I don't want to crack the water pump bolts for fear that coolant will go everywhere, or worse, pour straight into my gearbox. Advice? Edited June 28, 2006 by QWKDTSN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butt mooar Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 U dont have to touch the coolant.New set of clutch plates will cure the problem.About Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicmat Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 No you don't have to drain the coolant. The water is contained within the two pipes and the water pump housing. There is a seal on the engine side and a gear from the crank turns the water pump. Dont undo the kickstarter bolt fully, after you have loosened it turn the kick start 90 degrees as if your going to get it ready for kicking..... but keep turning to 70 degrees. This will crack the kickstarter and make it easier to take off. Once its all loose you can pull in the clutch and it will push the case off of the engine..... ... you get that? does it help ? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikb Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Have a look at this earlier post Clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwkdtsn Posted June 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks guys! Or as you would say, Cheers mates! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwkdtsn Posted June 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2006 Those guys at Gas Gas sure must think their little clutch screw prank is a laugh riot Of the 10 clutch screws, I got five out using moderate to severe force (with a precision 2.5mm bit in a small socket wrench). The other five stripped all six flats out from the internal hex as soon as I put any pressure on them. They are 100% completely stuck, and totally worthless tinny metal with circular holes now instead of hex holes. I'm totally furious because my only option now is to try and use a screw extractor, dealing with all the metal shavings falling into the gearbox, the likelihood of the extractor not working or breaking off, and then, if I do manage to get the screws out, dealing with the total impossibility of finding replacements. Go to hell, Gas Gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seandellear Posted June 25, 2006 Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 i had the same problem with my 03 125 gasgas. i stuffed the gearbox all arond with kitchen towel and cut a slot with a junior hacksaw then got a flat bladed screwdriver that fitted pricisely and put alot of body weight on the end of the screwdriver. if i still couldnt undo them i put some anti clockwise on the head and tapped then end of the screwdriver with a hammer repeatedly then went back to body weight they came out fairley easy but take ur time! i then got a powerful magnet and moved it overn the tissue and all over the clutch just hovering so it did not stick to the clutch and surroundings! then ordered a set of the later star heads that are much stronger and do not strip! hope this helps you out! Cheers sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwkdtsn Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Okay... I actually did end up slotting the screws and getting them out. I actually was planning on this... I guess I was just being a bit dramatic when I said I'd have to use a screw extractor. I was p****d off at the time. I'm still not looking forward to making sure all the metal filings are out of the gearbox! Anyway, I've measured my clutch with a digital caliper (10.15 mm) and with a precision micrometer in inches, which I converted online to mm (10.10 mm). The micrometer squeezed down on the plate stack more than I could by hand with the caliper, so I feel confident that my clutch pack is in that range. The clutch should be 9.75mm, and no greater than 9.85! I feel very confident that this is the reason my clutch has been so heavy (not to mention there was some interesting goop in the clutch that looked like a slurry of fiber material, light metal slough, and rubber gasket maker. Now here's the dilemma, to get the clutch to a 9.70-9.75 measurement I need to order two 1.3mm shims to replace both of the 1.5mm shims. This seems kind of drastic. I guess It's what I need to do, right? Anyone want to back me up on this? I don't know how much the shims are, but if they're not much, I suppose I could get two 1.3s and two 1.4s to experiment with. I have measured both of my stock shims and they are 1.5mm. What do you all think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicmat Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 yep, replace with two 1.3's sounds good to me, altho im alittle baffled to why you didnt remove the clutch basket sean ? its only one screw in the centre of the basket, then you could have done the work on your bench and kept all the fillings out of your GB. Ah well, glad its getting sorted though ! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwkdtsn Posted June 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 I didn't realize... my garage is kind of dark and I didn't notice that... I actually read that in an old thread just last night and felt pretty dumb Thanks fellas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwkdtsn Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 I went to put things back together today to at least be able to ride the bike while I wait for parts and found, to my suprise, that THERE IS NO BOLT holding the clutch assembly together! It just is not there! According to the parts diagram, there should be a bolt and washer. Mine had none. Apparently whoever worked on the clutch last did not put it back in or decided it was not necessary. Well, the clutch works without it, but I wonder if this could be a major factor in my stiff clutch problem? Anyone know the size and pitch of the bolt so I can put one in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikb Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 You MUST get the correct one as it is an M5 cap head with a hole in the centre!!! Not sure why the hole is there, must be something to do with oil flow??? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicmat Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 ah well R2W maybe next time ! I believe that the hole is for crank case breathing....pressue from each side of the engine. well i thoughts thats what the dvd manual said,... .. it would be a good idea to put the correct bolt in because if the clutch basket moves it could do damage..??? anyway i dont like the idea of a loose engine component !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seandellear Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 I never thought of removing the whole clutch! this would have saved me hours with a magnet! I no, im a ****! anyway i will keep this in mind for the next time! Cheers, sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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