old trials fanatic Posted June 25, 2006 Report Share Posted June 25, 2006 Assuming there is an alignment of the planets sometime in the near future and my new James frame materializes then i will need to get some wheels built so i'm gathering bits as i go along ready for if it arrives. So guys i've been offered alloy rims in both WM2 and WM3 but i dont know which to choose In the past i've never given it a thought and just used what was fitted, mostly WM2 i think, as std. I assume that WM2 being slightly narrower would give a rounder tread profile to the tyre and WM3 being slightly wider would give a more square or flatter tread profile. Would the WM3 however close the treads up and the WM2 open them slightly ? Which would give better grip? Cant afford to make the wrong decision. The WM3 is only a couple of quid more but is it any better? I really would appreciate your input based on your experiences I dont have a problem with clearence with the swing arm and will be fitting either Michelin X1 or IRC tubed tyres, assuming i can still get tubed tyres that is. I assume you can use a tubeless tyre with a tube in it on a WM2 or WM3 std rim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpatensing Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Hi OTF, I would use WM2 (as indeed I have on my recently completed Otter BSA). Bultacos and my Beamish Suzuki RL325 use WM2. (Don't forget the correct size security bolts) Regarding the use of tubeless tyres on tubed rims (with a tube), this can lead to problems with the tyre bead slipping back into the wheel rim well every time you drop the tyre pressure. At about 8-10 psi the bead will drop back every time. It is becoming more difficult to obtain the tubed Michelin X11 (BVM Moto told me they are obsolete) so I now use a tubed IRC on the Beamish Suzuki and have found it very good. Sherpatensing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g4321 Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Regarding the use of tubeless tyres on tubed rims (with a tube), this can lead to problems with the tyre bead slipping back into the wheel rim well every time you drop the tyre pressure. At about 8-10 psi the bead will drop back every time. Beg to differ here. I have had problems with one tyre dropping back into the bead in the past but not with my latest new tyre - 3 or 4psi tubeless tyre on tubed rim with 2 security bolts - no problem at all. Try leaving the tyre overnight or even longer blown up with a tube in it before you try fitting it on to the rim, this seems to force the bead out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickymicky Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Iv'e never had any luck getting one to stop on, and if it comes off at a trial theres no chance of getting it back on without a compressor. For what its worth, dont use neat fairy liquid to lubricate the bead either. These products use salt as a thickening agent and it helps to rot the rim from the inside.A wm3 rim is only just over 1/4 inch wider than a wm2 so i dont think you could tell any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitley Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Who is making your frame OTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted June 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 To tell the truth i dont know who is actually doing the fabricating. I'm buying the frame through Alan Whitton. Thing is i've had it on order for a while now, 6 months, and i'm impatient to get started but will just have to wait my turn i suppose Always the problem when things are made in small batches. Suppose it looks like WM2 for the rims then. I was leaning that way myself as i thought it would give a slightly rounder tread profile and open up the tread a bit helping to clear the mud. Look i need all the help i can get as talent is out of stock at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpatensing Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 Regarding the use of tubeless tyres on tubed rims (with a tube), this can lead to problems with the tyre bead slipping back into the wheel rim well every time you drop the tyre pressure. At about 8-10 psi the bead will drop back every time. Beg to differ here. I have had problems with one tyre dropping back into the bead in the past but not with my latest new tyre - 3 or 4psi tubeless tyre on tubed rim with 2 security bolts - no problem at all. Try leaving the tyre overnight or even longer blown up with a tube in it before you try fitting it on to the rim, this seems to force the bead out. Tried blowing it up with a tube inside before fitting, that didn't work. Fitted the tyre and left it blown up to 70psi for 24 hours, that didn't work. Cleaned everything and re fittted with no lube, that didn't work. This was on a Beamish Suzuki so I tried the tyre on a spare Bultaco (Akront) rim and still the bead fell back into the rim. The annoying thing is the tubeless Michelin fitted to my Sherpa 340 will run at 3-4psi with no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsbantam Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Regarding Tubeless tyres; I guesss it depends on the difference in size betwwen rim and tyre. I have run a tubeless Dunlop for 4 years with no problems. In fact it was very difficult to get it on and tight to get the bead out on the rim. My local mechanic swears by blowing up tyre to high pressure (75 - 80 psi) leaving it overnight. I did this and happily run 4 - 6 psi in rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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